2003 2.3L fuel pressure range – ford ranger forum ortega y gasset obras completas

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Been having idle issues. The problem has been sporadic starting about a year ago. I turned up the idle speed adjustment screw to make the idle revs about 1100 rpms about 3 or 4 months ago to keep it from stumbling at idle and it worked up until now. The Engine is now totally stumbling and I can’t operate the electricity games vehicle at all now. I can’t get it revved up and out of stumble mode.

My fuel pressure is reading only 30psi key on engine off and the Haynes Manual says it’s supposed to be between 56-72 psi. From reading my Haynes Manual in addition to the replies here 30psi is WAY low. I’ve been having electricity prices per kwh 2013 to replace my fuel pump module like every 80-100k miles. It seems the fuel pressure regulator built into the fuel pump module utilizes a little plastic/neoprene ball as a back flow check valve and the 10% corn liquor they put in gas these days shrinks this little ball over time causing the check valve to leak and loose pressure. The current fuel pump module I have in right now has only got like v gashi kenga e zagrebit 50,000 miles on it. These things usually last around 100k miles. What give on that?

The check valve should only affect the hold pressure though I thought. It seems like if the engine is running that the fuel pump itself should keep the pressure up right? Like maybe the fuel pump isn’t getting enough voltage? I replaced the alternator about 81k miles ago so I think the pump should be getting enough juice. But low voltage would make the pump run slow right gas or electricity for heating? The hold pressure stays up around 30psi the same as the running pressure at 30psi (which means the check valve is working?).

I got a feeling I have multiple problems. Fuel pressure definite. And maybe the upstream 02 sensor. The 02 sensor has never been replaced. Anyone know which gas mask art leads to test inside the fuel pump module connector for correct voltage? I assume it’s supposed to be reading 12-14 volts at the connector. If I’m getting low voltage to the fuel pump I got no idea how to correct that.

The fuel filter is the fuel pressure regulator on the 02+ 2.3s. The fuel returns at the filter instead of at the rail. You’ll notice it has 2 inlets and one outlet. One of the 1 unit electricity cost in bangalore inlets is the pressure return side. So its not technically a returnless system. They run at higher psi because at 60 psi there’s no need to adjust the pressure via a vacuum operated electricity and magnetism worksheets regulator. 60psi runs fine at wot or idle and only the injector pulse width is changed by the pcm.

It looks like that is indeed the fuel pulse damper on the fuel rail and it is indeed vacuum operated from looking at this part from Advance Auto Parts. The one on my fuel rail looked to be welded/made into the fuel rail and only replaceable by replacing the entire fuel rail. But apparently it’s only the base that’s made gas laws worksheet with answers into the fuel rail and it looks that the damper actually pops up and out out of the base for replacement. The only question now is what is the device in the fuel pump module. I can only think that must be the check valve.

So then there wasn’t but one thing left to check. Which was for vacuum leaks on the drivers side of the engine. Jacked up drivers side, took off the gas efficient suv 2015 wheel and removed the plastic fender well. This gave me access to the PCV valve and the hose going from it to the intake manifold. The problem with the hose going from the intake manifold to the PCV valve is that the nipple at the intake manifold is larger than the nipple at the PCV valve. So what size hose fits tight at the intake manifold is very loose at the PCV nipple. I made a stepdown rig a year or two ago 10 gases and their uses to solve that problem. A couple months ago I had the plastic fender well off for something that I can’t remember, and the hose on my rig at the PCV seemed to loose so I put a hose clamp on it: