2003 2500 Silverado code p1516 tac module – car forums and automotive chat gaslighting examples


I’m new to this forum so if I’m not doing this correctly I appologize. My husbands 2003 chevy silverado is doing the same thing. After he gets a reduced engine power warning, the gas pedal does absolutely nothing. On the advice of a mechanic he replaced the computer, it still did it after that. He then said he needed a new Tac modulator so he got that and it still does it. When he hooked it up to the computer it tells him its the gas pedal sensor, so he bought a new one of those and it still does it. He installed all of these things himself this mechanic didn’t do any of it. So, we dumped about $700 into trying to fix this problem and previous posts I’ve read stated that is could just be a wire on the tac modulator,my husband’s not a happy camper but he’s going to give it a try. We did get a letter from Chevy about the panel cluster problem and we haven’t had any problems with it until recently, both problems occured aroung electricity worksheets ks1 the same time. Could that have anything to do with it? We live in northern minnesota so the daytime highs are about 10 above and it gets to about -15 below at night. The cold weather is pretty hard on our cars but problems usually don’t occur until it gets to about -25 below. I was just wondering if that could be a contributing factor, we never had any problems last winter so I doubt it. If anyone has any other suggestions we would really appreciate it.

So my reduced power engine light started becoming a habitual acurance for me and I took it to the local repair shop. They said to me it was trouble code P1516 and that I’d have to replace my Throttle Actuator Control Module. $376.50 plus labor. So being the guy I am I blew up at the poor gal who told me this news and asked if they beleived in actually fixing cars or just replacing parts.:runaround: So dealing with about one hundred other proplems and wifes van. ( Hers gets fixed first b games 2:banghead: ) I let the problem go on figuring I’d deal with it down the road. So when the truck would not start that Monday morning I did the tipical old school checks. 1st. Turned key to start. Got nothing. Checked battery. OK. So remembering the older starters, I repeatedly turned the key to the start position. Slow and rapid. When I did it rapidly I got a sound that reminded me of a engine that was vapor locked. Wanted to but couldn’t. So based on the clicking and sounds it made and advice from some friends of mine I replaced the starter. Well that was a waste of $150.00 But seeing that my truck has 130,000 miles on it figured not a total loss. So here I am puzzeled I made a few more calls. My buddy has the code check and wouldn’t be able to come till the fallowing day. I noticed at that point that the trucks gear position read out display that went real dim about three years ago was showing my the truck was in 2nd gear. After a call to the dealership they said it was a trouble code as well as my auto tech friend:screwy::banghead: really! And after reading the post here I learned it could be a wire problem.:shakehead I love wires. Never thought my truck would have more dang wires than one of my CNCs. So I started at the fuse box under the hood. And guess what I found:disappoin At least 9 wires that the casing was rubbed off exposeing bear wires. After tugging and tapeing up all the exposed wires, I moved to the throttle body and tug tested all those wires. After tugging and taping went and tried starting the truck again. Nothing. The next dau my auto tech buddy came over with his computer and pluged it in. My truck spit out at least a dozen codes from transmission to other funky codes. He cleared out the codes and reset it. :naughty: The truck started. He let it Idle for a couple minutes and shut it down then restarted it a couple of times and then rechecked it for trouble codes. All faults were gone. :rofl: Conclusion. Bear wires in the bottom side of the fuse box may have electricity questions and answers physics been shorting out on them selfs. Do to years of driving ( since 03 ) vibrations caused exccesive rubbing and wear on wires exposing the copper strands causing shorts in the system. After wires were repaired and computer reset, I have not ( knock on wood ) had any problems.

I have similar problem with my 2003 silverado and would like to share my experiences. About two years ago I had one instance of the reduced engine power message and had to pull to the side of the road. While I don’t remember the specifics I figured out that turning the ignition switch off and on several times cleared the problem. I had no other problems until last year when the same thing happened. Still didn’t think much about it until now. Over the last two months I have had anywhere from one to three instances of the reduced engine power always in the morning when my lights were on. It never has happend any other time while driving…always in the morning with the lights on. About two weeks ago during the day my truck wouldn’t start after driving it a couple miles and stopping to brwose for a few minutes at our local Home Depot. I went to leave the parking lot and the truck would not turn over. I jiggled the key switch, jiggled the gear selector to no avail. Finally when I turned the light switch from auto to manual lights on the truck started right up and hasn’t happend since. So naturally I’m thinking my reduced engine power is related to the light switch in auto mode. Now when I go to work and it’s dark I turn the switch to manual. For several days no problems then I got the problem with the lights in manual. I purchased a scanner and figured out that when this happens I get code P1516 (TAC). I have removed all connectors and used a good cleaner to clean all connectors. I’ve pulled on the TAC connector and wires while the engine was running and haven’t seen the problem. Again I’ve only had this issue when the lights are on and am able to reset the code with the scanner. After reading all the other tips I plan to purchase the TAC and replace mine. Hopefully this gas up the jet fixes the problem.

Ok, Hope u guys are ready for this. Coclusion DO NOT EVER TAKE VEHICLE TO GM DEALER!!!!! I am from small city where everyone knows everyone. If you read my other posts you will know the problem i was having. Come to find out the Mechanic who was working on my problem was a high school friend of my brothers. Swear GM mechanics are trained on how to screw people. Even if they know you personally. Anyway he spent 5 hours @ $100 per chasing around the problem just to keep me coming back. He supposidly cleaned the grounds on the truck that was posted on GM bulliten. Well i took it home took them off myself and it was done so poorly that i dont know how anything worked. He half assed cleaning the eye terminals and didnt touch the block with anything. I took pictures now going to have a fun fight with the dealer. Was in there 3 times $650 later still having same problem. He did do one thing that was good he re-pinned connector going into the throttle body. Well his next step was to replace TAC module. $600 from them. Well i went down street and picked up AC DELCO complete throttle body which they wanted $550 for got it for $250 tax in. I have to thank jCAt for also telling me that it should be cahnged. Any way long story short i fixed it myself in 2 hours and it hasnt missed a beat. I also cleaned the grounds properly and its like a new truck. People should 76 gas station jobs NEVER go to dealer unless its under warranty. Though they will probably try to find something to screw you for.. Find an out source with the same equiptment . Most credible shops have high tech scan tools to find problems . NEVER GO TO DEALER. I am so upset that i have bought 3 vehicles from same dealer and this is how they treat me.?? i will NEVER BUY ANYTHING THERE AGAIN. I will pay twice the money and buy out of t

So this is where I stand on my 2003 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L gas… I do not have a code reader but when I have got the codes read it has been throttle position mismatch(this is the weakest link in my journey on fixing the issue) I bought this truck last summer from a ford dealer. It had worked for a month before i started getting issues, it started off as random times under acceleration or deceleration or even when cruise control was on, someone had already replaced the connector end to the throttle body so I then replaced the original throttle body itself, this did not work either. So i took it to the GM dealer to have the software flashed $75 for that and it was done. That lasted for 300 miles, so i then switched the foot pedal out with another pedal and go nowhere, went back to the original pedal, I rewired with all new pins and new connector direct wires from the TAC module to the throttle body still did not work but now seems like heavy acceleration(Load). I then spliced in a ground coming from TAC module to frame ground with same results onder Load it goes into reduced engine power. Last thing I did was put a new TAC module on and it is still going into Reduced engine frictional electricity examples power under load when engine is warm…. about to completely set this on fire… last thing i am going to try is another new Throttle body and wire harness from foot pedal to TAC module. one other thing might be the mass flow as well. any one have any ideas i feel like I have touched every inch of the issues with the throttle body with no success