2Hp detriot engine – smokstak gas hydrates are used


SAE 30 oil in the oilers. 8 to 10 drips/minute, once the engine warms up. You must use sealed type oilers if you do not have the original two post unit. The oilers depend on crankcase differential pressure to inject oil. One oiler feeds the piston and wrist pin, the other the crankshaft big end bearing, via a slinger on the crank. MIXING GAS AND OIL WILL NOT LUBRICATE THE ENGINE! The fuel mixture never sees the interior of the engine. It passes thru the transfer port directly to the combustion chamber, and gets burned. The outer bearings on the crank get lubed from grease cups, which also provides a seal against air flow thru the bearings.

Yes, the engine S/N is stamped into the end of the crank, under the brass cover. As far as I know, there is no S/N date list. I believe that John Davis does have a registry though. He too is very knowledgable on the Detroit engines. My 2 HP Detroit looks very similar to yours, and it was made in 1909. Mine was originally used in a Vaudville theatre to run the lights. Unfortunately, the man who retrieved the engine, left the generater in the building that was later demolished.

Hi Todd, Glad to see another Detroit’s a live and running. You will find that there are a few different opinions on how the 2 cycle Detroit’s fuel & oil systems operate and if you should use 2 cycle oil or not. I’ll try to explain what I have learned about the fuel & oil systems over the years working on many of the Detroit’s. However in the end you will still have to decide in what you believe is right and what you think is best for your engine.

If you look at your engine close the injector is mounted low on the cylinder and the piston is all the way at the bottom of it’s stroke when fuel is injected and sprayed under low pressure into the cylinder deflected and some what vaporized in the upward direction by hitting the hot bar on top of the piston. At the same time this is happening you have air from the crankcase being forced up the port on the side and into the cylinder which also helps to push the fuel mixture up. The whole cylinder area including the walls of the cylinder now have fuel as the piston starts on it’s way up. So if oil is mixed with the gas it will lubricate the cylinder walls. Much of the oil/fuel is burned and goes out the exhaust but some does help lubricate the cylinder walls & rings as the piston travels up on compression. Although there is very little lubrication below the piston rings from the 2 cycle oil.

The second drip line does lubricates the cylinder, piston and upper connecting rod bearing. If you look at your engine and notice that this oil port on the side of the cylinder is located lower then the fuel injector. It distributes oil below the piston rings so the oil can eventually make it’s way into the hole that goes through the wrist pin and into a small hole that lubricates the upper connecting rod bearing. Also oils cylinder and piston skirts.

Make sure your drip oiler or oiler’s have check valves to keep crankcase pressure from leaking back into the main oil reservoir. Does not matter if the main oil reservoir is sealed or vented. I have run Detroit’s with vented and sealed reservoirs and they work fine either way as long as they have check valves. No oil injection from pressure with the drip oilers. Only the larger Detroit’s with mechanical oiler’s inject the oil using pressure. However there is a slight suction from the crankcase to the drip oiler lines that help pull the oil to it’s lubrication points.

Andrew it’s not a big deal, people have different opinions all the time. Although I can tell you from experience from running many Detroit’s and Sandow 2 cycle engines stationary & marine with low pressure fuel injection systems that the oil reservoir’s are not pressurized from the crankcase when the piston goes down. The reason why is because the check valves below the oil reservoir keeps this from happening. However if the engine is run at a very very slow speed, slower then normal operating speed (not under a load) some pressure may leak past the check balls and bubble air into the reservoir. This is because the engine is running so slow that there is not enough pressure from the crankcase to keep the check ball seated properly so air tends to escape past it. If the engine is running at normal operating speed the check balls should seat and keep pressure from entering the oil reservoir. I have a couple Detroit 2 cycle engines with the low pressure fuel injection systems that have vented oil reservoir’s and they both lubricate & work just fine.

Todd, Normally I drain the crankcase when the engine has been setting like over night or longer because the excess oil from when it was running will drain down and settles in the bottom of the crankcase after the engine is shut off. Excess oil in the crankcase has a tendency of making the engine difficult to start. The only other time I drain the crankcase is if for some reason you flood the engine with gas then the gas will also settle to the bottom of crankcase and also make starting the engine difficult.