4R70w clutch pack out of tolerance – f150online forums electricity demand

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So I’m rebuilding my 4R70W from my ’03 Expedition and the clutches for the direct and intermediate CP are a different design(apparently improved). The clutch packs for the forward and reverse CPs are the same design as I removed. The forward and reverse CPs are w/in tolerance in the drums. The intermediate CP looks close, measuring the new steels/friction stacked against the old ones is only about .010"-.015" thicker on the new set.

The problem is the direct CP. I only get about .030" clearance and it calls for .062"-.085" which seems too far out to ignore. It’s all from the frictions. I called the person I bought it from and they didn’t think it should be an issue. I called Raybestos and they said pretty much the same thing. When I asked if this would cause excess heat from it, they said w/ the new design it should counteract that and I’m thinking then this will negate any benefit of the new design and cause extra heat in the transmission leading to premature wear. Anyone have any experience w/ reliability and using a close tolerance like that?

Otherwise, I also asked about thinner steels and while they gave me a part number for one that would be .010" thinner, but I’m having a hard time sourcing it (511125). I want to get 3 to put me at the low end. Anyone ever tried to have steels planed by a machine shop to make them thinner? I was thinking that could be an alternative, but I think I would have to ask the company again to see if there’s any type of heat treatment on these.

So I was able to get the shaft pressed out and in. You definitely need access to a hydraulic press. It took about 4 tons of force to get it where it needed to be and that’s w/ the general lube it calls for. Built up the unit and put the pump on. I noticed when bolting it down (even without plastic thrust washer) it felt like it was compressing something it shouldn’t. I took it apart a few times until I realized it was the return spring cage for the intermediate piston which makes since. Nothing I saw or read let me know this. Glad I finally figured it out and didn’t damage anything. It also takes a good amount of force to move the input shaft especially with solid rings to find out what the endplay is. I ended up using a ball joint splitter going through the bottom hole in the bell housing to move it. I found that I had .080"-.085" endplay w/ no washer and the red one that was originally in it was .104" so I ordered a new set. The local dealer failed to find the thrust washers so I had to get them online. I don’t know if I found the right spec, but it looks like it’s supposed to be .010"-.040" after the washer is installed. They call it the torque converter end play. There was nothing else aside from that I could find for the endplay spec. I also ended up ordering a new direct drum and changing it and I’m glad I did. I didn’t see cracking where the snap ring goes, but it looked like some of those indentions for it were fairly deep and had me worried. The new one looks a lot better and I feel more relived. The design is a little different though, but everything fits as it should. In addition I just bought solid rings for the output shaft where the direct drum rides. This should be a fairly strong transmission when I get done with it hopefully.