’99 Sport build thread grocery haulin’ with panache – page 25 – jeepforum.com gas x dosage pregnancy

Thanks! It’s been an on-and-off project for several years now and the end is in sight. All of the dirty, hard work is done anyway. I do still have some U-Pol Raptor liner to spray inside, but at least that’s a sunny weather job and doesn’t require rolling around on the ground and torquing things at awkward angles with dirt falling in my face.

I may just move the tie rod back UTA as it’s really not in any danger of taking damage. I just had everything on top for ease of assembly while trying to get it all together and the ends tightened up (bolt, washer, misalignment, heim, misalignment, washer, heim, washer, knuckle, washer, nut) since they’re heavy bastards. Did I mention it’s solid bar, along with the drag link? No DOM, just a chunk of 1.5" steel with 2" of thread tapped into the ends for the heims. Clearance is about 3/16" of an inch on the gussets; I don’t see it being an issue but we’ll find out once I hit the trails. I’ve got lower isolators to keep the coils from shifting around, so the only way they’d hit would be to have some pretty severe lateral load but I’m not sure if it’s possible to deflect that much that low in the coil.

Not sure…all of the write-ups I have seen (which weren’t wiped out by photobucket BS) which mention clocking have been converting from a 231. Since my 242 is a bit larger, I’m anticipating and hoping that clocking won’t be necessary. Judging from a quick measurement, the 242 is both slightly wider and taller, so the 241 should sneak in just fine.

Will probably be a couple of weeks until it’s in though. Apparently runout is an issue on the output shaft if the harmonic balancer/1350 flange is removed, so I’m going to talk to Tom Wood tomorrow and see if my shafts can be converted without having to do any yoke swapping (front is a 1330). Fill plug was kinda stripped out, but a quick assault with a drill bit and a T55 torx on the breaker bar made short work of it. Everything feels smooth by hand and it peed out a little Royal Purple which looked fairly clean, so this thing is in better shape than I had anticipated.

The reason I ask is that my transmission, NV3550 was from a tj and the pattern was rotated slightly. Also, if you ran a 1350 to 1310 ujoint at the first double cardan ujoint, you could run a 1350 coupler from a tj shaft and it would allow you to keep your setup.

Haha, I don’t even want to know. It’s been fun researching the parts, saving up a little here and there, ordering them, and then installing bit by bit. Probably at least $15K, but a decent severance from one of my jobs covered a lot of it in the early/mid stages. All of my other hobbies are pretty cheap and I have very few bills, so it’s not too difficult.

I’m 1/2" shy of 6′ so it feels just about perfect for me; I can imagine being another 6" taller would make for a less comfortable fit. I’ve been pretty luck with mechanical issues or lack thereof — the only things I can thing of that have actually needed replacing at any point were the water pump (started weeping), AC compressor (clutch = poof), and starter (150K miles + oil bath from the leaky adapter). I’ve seen some great WJ builds, but I’d probably go with the WK or WK2 for a cushy light-duty trail rig/overlander.

241 notes: during internal inspection, pilot bushing bearing cage was damaged; found a couple of needle bearings rolling around. Could have been during my reassembly attempt as it’s kind of a goofy case — they want you to remove the tail housing and rear output shaft and mate the rear case to the front half with the guts already in the front. The spring for the shift fork probably offset the shaft going into the planetary just a hair, making it go in at an angle against the bearing. Figured out I can cheat and just put the shift rail in the front half with the spring and leave the guts in the rear and mount them horizontally so that nothing is trying to fall out of either half. Just waiting for the new bearing to come in the mail along with an input seal then I can slap it all back together. Everything else looks fine though. Trying to cross-reference part numbers for a 15 year-old transfer case that was only produced for 4 years = headache.

NP241OR swap begins…so long, NP242 w/SYE. You did good. Fill plug was stripped on the 241, so I drilled it and popped it loose with a T55 Torx bit and stole the good one from the 242. Finally, something that Torx is good for. Works better than an EZ-out.

I don’t have a transmission jack, so I made do. The 241 mounting studs are slightly offset from the 242’s — maybe 3/4" at most — so it needed to be canted CCW just a touch in order to line up with the AW4 (hence the ‘shims’ on the passenger side). This thing is heavy and awkward; it makes the 242 feel like a toy.

It’s not a Jeep mod if it doesn’t require modification with an angle grinder. The transmission mount plate needed to be notched just a touch in order to fit. The 242 and 241 are actually about the exact same size in every dimension, except the 241 is unique in that the planetary assembly goes in from the outside of the case instead of from the inside, so there is a retainer plate with 12 bolts on the outside of the case. These aren’t present on the 231 or 242 as the planetary ring and gears are installed while the case halves are separated. The lowest bolt boss slightly interferes with the mount plate, but other than that there are zero fitment issues.

And she’s in; featuring a new JB Conversions 32-spline high clearance 1310 CV yoke. The factory shift linkage is way too long as the front output of the 241 is almost twice as thick as the 242, so the shifter plate sits quite a bit closer. The plate also points up instead of down as on the 231/242. I’m just going to leave it in 2H for now and order a Novak cable assembly.