## Adding well water to pond help pond boss forum gas you up

#########

I don’t have any pics of my set-up, although I’ll take a few tomorrow and post them. Either my pond is a lot smaller than I thought (could be, it’s shrunk a lot in the past few months), or my well pumps out a lot more than I thought. I’m electrically challenged, and math isn’t my forte, so I contacted a friend who is better than I am, who has a friend that is better than him, and what he sent v gashi me is posted below.

Well pump is 1 hp, rated at 28 gpm. I didn’t pump for 24 hr, and the level dropped 1. I pumped for 12 hr. and the level rose 3/8. The pond slope varies around the pond from 2:1 – 4:1. Ambient temp that day was 91* during the day, down to 70* at night. Daytime Rh was 60% I have a yardstick on a stake, so I can measure the water level pretty accurately.

If we neglect evaporation (probably pretty reasonable over a single day) and we assume that the slope of the pond bank is also negligible over an inch of level change (seems pretty reasonable), we can approximate the shape of the pond by an easily computed volume, say a slice of a cylinder. Now we’ve got a formula for Volume in terms of area and level and it’s off to the gas density formula races.

Qo is not given explicitly, but we know that in the absence of pumping, the pond level subsides 1 per day. When the pump is running, the pond level increases 3/8 in 12 hours, or 3/4 per day. Therefore, the pump provides not only gas under a dollar the volume lost to leakage, but an additional 3/4 per day. From this information we can say that the pump discharge is 1-3/4 (or 7/4) times as great as the leakage rate, or:

The pond was dug up about 40 years ago with a bulldozer for a watering hole for the cows and horses we raised at the time. It was about 5′ on the deepest end and about 2′ on the shallow end. The electricity for refrigeration heating and air conditioning 9th edition answers area of the pond is a natural slew that was dammed off to hold the water. The pond runs North South with drainage canals North South of the pond for drainage back into the Waxia bayou. There was a few fish at one time from frinds stocking from a fishing trip. Since then, the pond is about 3′ on the deep side and about 1′ on the shallow side. Fish wise, may have a Shoepick or two but nothing else.

I had a contractor that built my home come by to give me an estimate on digging it out and building up the banks around the pond. His estimate is about 4 days worth of digging and leveling the remaining dirt into the surrounding area. I have crops in the field now but should have it harvested by October gas usa. Once the milo has been harvested, then I will bring him in to begin the work.

I am isolated from most of civilization back in this area and have a well for water supply to our home. With a large family, I do not think my 3 well can produce for the family as well as the pond so I am considering having a well dug just for the pond. I did state a 4 well but 76 gas credit card login still uncertain of what will be necessary to keep up with the pond. The soil is a Silty Clay Loam so I am not too concerned about the pond retaining the water. My water level is at 24′ and will have a continues slope from the well down to the pond so I am assuming the most hydrastic head will be the 24′. Please correct me if I am wrong, anyone.

What I have is a water well that was hand dug many, many, a moon ago by my grandfather. The well casing is galvanised steel and has an ID of 1.50 and the tubing is 3/4 galvanized steel. The well was utilized, back then, with an above ground pump e seva power bill payment with a galvanized line running into a water trough for the cattle horses. When he retired and sold off the cattle and horses, the well was abandoned.

Since then, I removed the steel tubing and utilizing what was available in my shed, I ran a steel weight on my open face and dropped it in the well. Water level is at 24′ and the well total depth is 48′. I replaced the steel tubing with 3/4 PVC and a new foot valve. The foot valve is at 40′ from surface and have about 2.5′ stick up above ground. I worked the tubing up down by hand and she produces water with each stroke. So far so good……I think…

As of today, I had all trees cleared out except the cypress, a u shaped levee facing the watershed, had a 65k # sheeps foot to compact the clay loam levee e sampark electricity bill payment as it was built, purchased a diffuser aeration system from Ted Lea, (Great guy, great product, good people there)which is 3 – 2 diffuser stations connected to a 5 station manifold system. I will have a 1.25 underground trunk line running from the pump to the manifold.

With that said, my little simple mind is thinking I can electricity for dummies amazon tee off of the trunk line near the pump and run a 1.25 trunk line 200′ to my refurbished water well. Once the air line is at the well, I can seal off the casing from the tubing at surface, tie in the air line to the casing side of the well, (with a regulator to control air flow) apply air to the casing side and force water through the foot valve, up the tubing and have the flow gravity feed to the pond.

Questions that are floating in my head is, 1.) Will this work? 2.) How many gpm can I expect to get out of a 3/4 tubing? 3.) How do you calculate how much pressure it would require to move 8.33 ppg water up 24’from the present water level to surface? If this will work efficiently, then I will have to identify how much the water aquifer will be able to supply in a given electricity voltage in norway time. I am assuming that the small volume I will be removing will not affect the recovery of the water aquifer.