Amouage – jubilation xxv man reviews and rating electricity in costa rica


This jubilee XXV has been on my watch list for half an eternity. I’ve wanted to test it sooo long, but it should never have been. gas and bloating Reflection Man and Interlude Man I have already tested of this brand and I must say: Two bang scents. But I was especially curious about it, especially the many declarations of love here and also the ranking of this fragrance. Everyone has their own fragrances, which they are curious about and have high expectations before the first test. Usually too high.

I have tested this fragrance extensively and have not ticked off prematurely, yet I do not warm up with this fragrance. It starts with a mixture of blackberries and spices. I don’t notice all the notes from the pyramid, but I can smell labdanum and incense and a good portion of clove. Many people don’t like cloves, which I belong to. The first two hours remind me of tobacco. Spicy stuffing tobacco. Not pure, but a few spices as well. Incense is also very present here. In addition, oud is not too present as in many oud-crackers, but the oud-touch is already noticeable. Opoponax will also be added later, which is clearly more prominent in Interlude Man than here. After about 8-10 hours it subsides a bit more gently with soft woods and patchouli.

I remember exactly how I felt the first time I smelled this one. Got a 10ml (vintage) decant of it from eBay because where I live there’s not a single niche store in a radius of 200km. One evening at home I sprayed only one shot in my wrist. I closed my eyes and somehow it transported me to a farm. There I was wearing a waxed country coat and a pair of wellies. e 87 gasoline I didn’t like it very much at the time to be honest. Smelled very mature, very complex and I wasn’t very interested in comprehending that smell that was really reminding me of being near an horse stable. My 10ml decant sat down in the shelf for almost a year.

Fast forward to June 2018: I visited NYC for the first time and grabbed a lot of decants with me. One day I decided to wear Jubilation again, because why not? Nobody is going to judge me for smelling like I’m wearing a waxed coat in NYC. It was raining! Oh my my my, that smell got into my soul. My nose kept getting sniffs of it blended with those odours from that incredible city. I was there trying out the most high end Xerjoffs, Rojas, MFK, Nicolai in every god damn niche store that I found, but that smell… that smell kept on coming all over those magnificent scents. I was in love. The next days I ran out of that precious 10ml decant. That fruitiness, that complex smell, with a resinous and woody base and pungent blackberry opening just stuck inside me. I kept on dreaming about it. When I thought of New York I could smell Jubilation XXV all over the place. I kept imagining it and smelling my empty decant and trying to deconstruct its blend into ingredients in my mind.

Back home I kept on using Timbuktu, which for me, somehow, reminds me a little bit of Jubi. electricity invented timeline Not the same thing. Not the same feeling. It wasn’t enough for me, although it was created by the same hands of that gorgeous Amouage. I had to get a bottle of it, and so I did. Ok it’s not the vintage non magnetic cap. it’s from Oman and it’s the magnetic cap. But who cares? I love this perfume. It warms me, it calms me down and it transports me every time and I think that’s the best thing that a perfume can do for you: transport you to another place! There’s no price for that!

Amouage Jubilation XXV is not an oriental, but a fragrance. Bertrand’s handwriting is so large and concise that he would actually need his own classificatory genre. And D. is not a genius artist, but a declared genius craftsman who, like van Dyck, Rubens and Rembrandt’s picture factories, produces in series, which is why many of his creations, no matter under which branding, can appear like self-plagiarisms because they are variations on the same theme. Jubilation xxv is an evolution of the 2006 Paestum Rose fragrance from Eau d’Italie, the basic structure is an axis of a dry fruity rose note and modern frankincense reinvented by Duchaufour and Buxton for the Comme des Garcons Incense series. electricity transformer near house The typical olibanum scent is massively embedded in velvety woody components such as Iso-e-Super and Cashmeran, which produce a diffuse dry-woody spicy aura that can almost be described as the basis DNA of 21st century niche perfumery, so characteristic is it across all the brands that buy their components and recipes from the three major fragrance and taste multinationals. XXV was quite a hype at the time, it was clearly aired and from the beginning it was too synthetic, although more bearable than the even more violent Paestum. I sold the flacons in the old design that I caught at the Harrods sale at a profit and invested them in vintage Tabarôme, among other things.

Now one can of course ask oneself what is the point of pasting over the most precious Omani frankincense essence with standardized industrial scent chords, if the former were more than PR clatter. Or you could ask which normal earner spends more than €200 on a now ubiquitous type of incense, if perfume consumption was rational. Or one could ask how Duchaufour comes out of this creative impasse, when he once reached the perfect equilibrium with Timbuktu, who had been reformulated in the meantime. However, all these questions make me feel a little melancholic. As well as the fact that XXV, in comparison to what Amouage & Consorts are doing today, is being pushed inflationarily onto the market as if the perfume industry had collective bulimia, still recognizable substance and aesthetic programmatic (if not mine). I can’t tell whether this fragrance has been cheaply watered down in the meantime, like Memoir Man. Anyway, there are more important things than (such) perfume. Vintage fragrances, for example, and perfumers who still practice their art free of the knack of relentless profit maximization. A Duchaufour on it!

The founding concept of Amouage is the hybrid that results from a meeting of cultures. gas pump emoji Eastern materials and sensibilities, Western methods and composition. Omani direction, European perfumers. Combining cultures shifts power and transforms identity. It’s not easy and although the outcomes can’t be predicted, some consequences can be expected: assumptions will be exposed, borders will be redrawn, mores will be dissected, and the full ramifications will play out over a timeframe of generations.

Notions of beauty reflect cultural ideals and changes can be examined as bellwethers of larger societal change. Early hybrid models of beauty, such as Amouage Gold (1983), might appeal to one generation, seeming opulent and dramatic, yet not meet the needs of the next-generation. electricity sources in us To them the style might be objectionable, ie. offensively orientalist or melodramatic.

To a younger perfume wearer or someone new to all perfume, the original Gold Woman looks like the perfume equivalent of The King and I, dated, out of step, presumptuous. Jubilation XXV reflects more of the contemporary school of multiculturalism. It exposes differences rather than smoothing them over. Each perfume is a reflection of the perfumer’s sensibilities and artistic approaches. Guy Robert, who composed Gold, is a classicist, and therefore a traditionalist. Gold is considered both Robert’s crowning achievement and the realization of Amouage’s goal of ‘the finest, damn the expense.’ The fact that the apotheosis of French perfumery came from Oman might have shocked at the time, but can be seen as a best-foot-forward approach sometimes taken at a meeting of polite strangers.

Bertrand Duchaufour, perfumer of Jubilation XXV (2004) is more of a postmodernist, and is known for breaking down form in order to rebuild it into the vision he prefers. There is a logical through line from his previous work to Jubilation XXV. From his work for Comme des Garçons, where he stripped wood down to its essence, to his use of fruit as spice, to his fascination with frankincense, there is a direct line from his seminal Timbuktu to Jubilation XXV. I don’t mean to imply that by having come after Gold, Timbuktu is the product of a more enlightened sensibility. The multi-culti world-arts philosophy that Timbuktu’s post-modernism refers to is starting to look a bit long in the tooth in retrospect.

From Shalimar to Opium to Ambre Sultan the perfume industry is so steeped in cheap 20th century Euro-orientalism, that its cultural bigotry, often couched as fantasy, often passes unnoticed today. Gold and Timbukto are styles of a cultural myopia that is common to the perfume industry despite long-standing criticism. (Don’t get me started on by Kilian’s full-blown orientalist new lines. It makes the 1920s French Oriental fantasy perfumes seem positively PC.)

So, here’s the thing. Does any of this after-the-fact interpretation matter? My point is that it matters if you bring yourself to it. If you give it your attention, an art object, a perfume, can be read. It deserves examination and deliberation. Consideration and pleasure are two non-mutually exclusive sides to perfume use. Why not take both?

Here’s the real fun, though: what if your experience of a perfume doesn’t fall in line with the reading? Which side is true? Critical thinking and the pleasurable use of perfume are both parts of the art of perfumery. gas x dosage for dogs But the two aspects collide for me. Gold does have that King-and-I feel to it, that old-school western colonial flavor. It’s a flavor I would kindly call distasteful, and more likely call historically naive and ignorant. Yet despite my better angels, I love Gold. It is sumptuous, it is decadent. I love to spray it on and embrace the extravagance! Does this make me a hypocrite? My cold, poststructuralist soul tells me that Jubilation XXV should win my heart, that I should refuse the the thoughtless chauvinism of Gold. gas hydrates energy But in spite of my appreciation, I actually don’t like Jubilation XXV. On anesthetic level, it’s not pleasurable or satisfying. On the compositional level, it feels as if Duchaufour tried to shoehorn the entirety of an Arabic sensibility into a bottle of Timbuktu.

Perfume discussions very infrequently play out as an argument of gut versus intellect. Why not? The uncommonness interests me. There is a contemporary assumption that perfumery is not, cannot be, an intellectual practice, neither for the perfumer nor the wearer. This presumption is false and goes unquestioned because we’re not taught to think about or discuss perfume. The Gold versus Jubilation XXV argument tells me that there’s much more that can be unearthed from perfumery than we imagine. If an art-form works rigorously with aesthetics, intention and expression, as perfumery does, then it holds that our discussion should rise above opinion and preference.