Another new guy with questions systems questions pond boss forum o gastronomo


Another new guy here in need of advice, any and all comments welcome. I found this forum last summer and have been steadily reading trying to educate my self so that when I got to the point of asking questions I would be able understand the information that I received. I have been be banging my head against the wall for the last two summers fighting FA. The FA gets so bad during the summer I fully expect a fish kill. During the winter the pond looks good, but the summer all bets are off. Even now when we had a few days weather in the tgask high 60’s low 70’s and I found some FA…. The way I have been combating it is with Cutrine Plus, but I can never get ahead of it. And from the reading that I have been doing I am probably only feeding the monster. So here goes.

The pond is at the bottom of two hills so in the summer it gets hot and doesn’t get much wind. What I would like to do is aerate and possibly add some Talapia. I will be building a system gas works park seattle myself trying to stay on somewhat of a budget. I am not worried about the mechanical or electrical ascpect of any of the construction I just need to make sure my numbers are correct would like to get some advice from some experts in the field which from what I read there are several hanging around here.

Location of aerators (I am thinking that I will probably end up with one set in the center of the pond and one in the neck). Or would a long piece of the perforated tubing running the length of the pond be better? There are several ways to go I know but I would really like to hear some other opinions besides the ones in my head.. Please feel free to weigh in, aeration and Talapia may only be a piece of the puzzle that I need to look at. I am going to try to attach some pictures also.

Grass carp will control it, for much less than what you’d spend on tilapia. However, grass carp love pellet food, so if you ever plan on feeding your bluegill to get them really big, or increase their spawning success for more forage for the bass, the grass carp will hog most of the food once they get big. A better option in my opinion, considering how clear your water is, would be to fertilize beginning in late February, or even mid-February. First check your alkalinity; if it’s below 20 ppm, you may need to lime first (cheap, just have to find someone in the area that does it, usually not difficult). Once you get a plankton bloom established, the FA can’t grow gas x breastfeeding side effects anymore because the bloom prevents the sunlight from penetrating down through the water to the bottom. An additional benefit is that your fish will grow much faster and larger than they are currently due to a better food chain. Once a bloom is present, you’ll only have to fertilize about once a month from February or March through October or November, and sometimes less than that, to keep the bloom going; when you can see a bright white object deeper than eighteen inches, it’s time to fertilize.

Talk to Overtons and Rainman and others about the success with grass carp vs tilapia for FA in Texas tanks. I believe you’ll find GC consistantly come up short on FA by comparison.The warmer the water the earlier in the season tilapia are present the more success youll have with them. The further north you are and electricity youtube have FA get a foothold before you can stock tilapia the less success you’ll have.They can have some affect on Chara as far as algae go but dont believe that is a concern of yours.Consider a properly sized aeration system along with the correct number and size of tilapia to meet your goals.Walt is correct that aeration alone will not solve your problem.Aeration is not meant to eliminate FA as many claim.Planktonic algae and sunlight will be your oxgen producer which will give you highs and lows f gas certification logo from day to day and season to season. Proper aeration will lower the highs and raise the lows to help you maintain a more consistant oxygen level.I have seen it at best reduce FA but there is no interaction that aeration promotes that will consistantly cause this..I have also experienced GC bypass FA (lyngbya,Spirogyra,hydrodictyon and even calcified chara) without other vegetation in a pond. Others may have different success with GC.Keep doing your research as youve tapped a great source of experience on this site.

I have looked at the systems you referred too and that is indeed what I am thinking about. I went back and corrected my org. post after seeing your reply. The neck is not shallow it may actually be a foot or two deeper than main pond (around 11’) just the base of the neck where it connects to the pond is shallow for about 10’ wide. What CFM does each of the Vertex aerators gas finder rochester ny need, would you suggest 2 side by side in each of the locations? The compressor will be at the pond.

The pond is extremely clear minus the algae. I don’t have a water test kit yet (will look into it) but I did have a roll of PH paper so I went down to the pond a few minutes ago and dipped it in. A few minutes later I took pictures of the paper (which I am having trouble up loading right now) and it showed a value of real close to 9 in alkalinity. Not sure this is a valid test though??? I did go and do some reading after you’re post earlier and everything that I read did indicate that my water is to clear, I can see several feet in the water with no problem. If I fertilize won’t I be feeding what I am trying to get rid of? What type of fertilizer are you talking about?

I’ve had the best luck with liquid fertilizer that’s a 10-50-0 formulation; formulations similar to this are sold under several different brands; the one I buy is called Tackle Buster and I get it from my local co-op, about $27 per 2.5 gallon jug, and a gallon does an acre. You will need to dilute it, which can be accomplished a few different ways ranging from pouring the liquid into the prop wash of a small outboard (the best method) to spraying it onto the surface with a garden sprayer like one would use for a herbicide application to diluting it 10:1 with pond water in a five-gallon bucket and splashing it onto the surface of the pond.

If you start fertilizing in mid-February or the beginning of March (I start in March but I live in TN, don’t know what part of TX you’re in), assuming you lime first with a ton of lime per acre, you should get a good plankton bloom by the second (which should come two weeks after the gas utility worker first) or third application of fertilizer. The FA won’t be at full strength by then, so before it has a chance to take off you’ll be blocking out its lifeline, and it will die. If your soil were naturally fertile, you possibly could fertilize even after the FA got going good, as I’ve done this more than once and initially for a couple days the FA grew more but as soon as a good bloom occurred the FA died off; but seeing as you haven’t fertilized before, you would want to get ahead of the FA by fertilizing early. But if your alkalinity is 9, liming first will be crucial to make the fertilizer work.

Just reading in on the topic, my suggestion to resolve your issue would be to install an aeration system with two diffuser stations as recommended above, one placed in the at or near the deepest part of the pond, while placing the other in the deepest part of the cove. Algae is a symptom of your problem, so I would suggest focusing on the problem, which is the available nutrients within your pond.

Aeration is likely the solution to much of your frustration, so I suggest not cutting 93 gas near me any corners, even it if takes away from other projects you were planing on paying for in 2010. Install a aerator that is over sized for a 3/4 acre pond. I would recommend and equivalent to a Vertex Air 2 or *Air 3*, which ever size your budget will allow. The headache and treatment savings along with the increase in biomass your pond can support will be worth the investment.

My experience with Grass Carp has had little success with algae removal, so I would stick with the Tilapia, but you storing electricity in water may find that algae is not an issue once you have sufficient aeration, especially if you promote phytoplankton to utilize the available nutrients. Install the aeration prior to the warm season if possible, otherwise you will likely feed your algae even more and have a frustrating spring. Getting your pond where you want it may take some precision, so if your alkalinity is low, lime, then once aeration is installed treat your algae in the spring to eliminate it and add some phytoplankton to give the plankton a jump start.