Arduinoos mp electricity bill payment paschim kshetra


Many PLA rolls were fused in my Welleman k8400. So far, it has been a good servant in spite of few breakdowns, mainly due to clogged nozzle or improper adjustments. Careful cleaning and fine tuning solved all these problems except one which is my fault. grade 9 current electricity test As I was taking apart the fusing module, I damaged the thread on the alumina plate that I add to replace. I also noticed few cracks on the body parts which occurred months after assembling my printer and which are probably due to over-tight bolts…

Except these minor problems, I have no particular complain and lots of enjoyment with this printer. Although PLA is very, very easy to print in most cases, it lacks to mechanical properties of ABS… And printing ABS on a non-heating bed is almost impossible. As I had to print a small ABS part in a hurry, I used an air dryer flushing hot air beneath the printing bed but this was some sort of desperate option although it proved to work fine. Months ago I ordered a heating plate and a spare DC power supply but I failed to find time to install the option and had no more particular reason to do it. Under the pressure of some Christmas presents that require some printed parts, I proceeded with the modification that I will now describe.

Removing the printing bed is plain easy. Some drilling in the metal plate is necessary and a drill press might be very useful for achieving a clean result. Draw carefully the center of the drilling locations (3.5 mm) using the heated plate as a template. Also, use a special conical cutting tool for removing enough metal from the heated bed so that the heads from the flat screws (M3x15) do not exceeds the surface (opposite to the heating layer).

Assemble the parts; use tooth lock washers and gently tighten the nuts. Solder the wires on the plate after checking the required configuration depending on the power supply used (12 or 24 V) and reinstall the whole assembly. Next is an illustration of the retaining springs that I used in the past: I reused the design for making larger springs as the printing bed got thicker.

As per product reviews on the web and as per my personal experience, the DR-40 picks up noises generated by the handling of the device. One way to prevent such noises consists in using a wired remote controller namely the Tascam RC-10. The key component from this option is a compact flat box featuring 10 buttons. q gastrobar It outputs a coded IR beam for controlling TASCAM devices.

However, as the DR-40 does not feature an IR receiver port so that TASCAM (actually TEAC) designed a dock for the remote controller. This dock is very likely fitted with an IR receiver which converts the coded IR beam into a TTL compatible signal. This TTL signal is routed to the DR-40 via a 3 wires cable which plugs to the bottom of the recorder with a 2.5 stereo jack. The dock itself features a clip at the back which is handy for attaching it to your belt of your trousers or to the pocket of your reporter vest.

Although the cable is 3m long, this length might not suffice for reaching the recorder. Thus the idea of taking control of the DR-40 through a custom remote controller. And the good news is that this is easily manageable as the remote controller talks to the device using an asynchronous protocol. As mentioned above, the connecting hardware consists in a stereo jack of 2.5 mm where:

Driving the DR-40 from a standard Arduino (+5V) is quite simple and requires few cheap components. Two options are considered: the safe one and the standard one. The safe option features an optocoupler while the other option features a GP transistor. Both will trigger the signal line using an open collector configuration. Next picture illustrates the two options:

The pull up resistor which is built in the DR-40 is about 10 k Ohm. However it looks insufficient for obtaining clean squared pulses out of the interface. I experimentally found that fitting a 10 k Ohm resistor (R1) in the interface is a good compromise between signal cleanness and power consumption. electricity 1800s R2 might be in the k Ohm range (1 to 10 k Ohm) and T1 might be any general purpose NPN transistor holding up to a vertiginous 10 mA Ice (A 2N3904 will do the job very well). R3 is chosen so that the current through the LED is about 10 mA which is the optimum running point for a 4N35 optocoupler (500 Ohm).

From a code point of view, all you have to really care about is the inverted signal out of this controller: a high level on an Arduino pin will result in a low level on the controller side. The code that I will introduce in a later post features a bit bang serial writer that can be set for both normal and inverted signal (in other words, spaces and marks are swapped in the digital messages). Few other things have to be taken into account. Firstly, the baud rate is 9600. Issuing a key action consists in generating a key press word, wait for 150 ms and issue a key up word. I did not bother with the key down state as it makes no sense in the context of this project. Last but not least, the issued words are 11 bits long: 1 start bit, 8 data bits, 1 even parity bit (the number of marks + the parity bit must be an even number) and 1 stop bit. Again, the bit bang writer will allow you to set all these parameters.

Using the device is pretty intuitive. This buttons are smooth and comfortable to use, the screen is quite small (to my aging eyes) but still readable. However, as mentioned in many reports which to apply to most devices from any brand, there are many recording options which may not be so easy to find. One should have a good understanding of the recording parameters (Sampling rate, sound level management, band width limitations, resolution, etc.) before trying to use this device. Oh, well, selecting WAV format with 24 bits data sampled at 96k in automatic gain control mode will do the job in many cases. As long as you do not fear XXL data files and long lasting post-production data analysis.

The primary use of this recorder is the capture of out-door sounds so that I “invested” in a wind screen. I took no risk at trying cheap fancy looking fur caps and instead followed the recommendation of the supplier. So I ordered a RYCOTE DR-40MWJ which fits as expected very well to the recorder’s body, has plenty room for the microphones even in the AB position.

The mounting thread is conveniently located so that installing the DR-40 on any tripod is very easy. Although placing the the recorder horizontally on a table is probably not the best option for recording, it is the most obvious position (at least for learning how to use the device) and the little rubber foot which fits in the mounting thread is simply clever. From the very early records I could confirm what I read in one of the reviews: the handling of the recorder generates a lot of rubbish sounds. You may either wear rubber gloves or wrap the recorder with foam…

It does take a few minutes to get ready and record the first sounds. Data can be read from the SD card (micro SD sitting in a standard SD dock, well done TASCAM !) or by connecting the recorder to a PC via the USB mini cable. My favorite sound analysis software is Audacity, almost as powerful as Goldwave but free. Both software feature many, many functions which are very useful not to say mandatory to cleanup records, mix tracks, normalize, etc.

Cà fait un moment que çà me grattouillait le clavier de composer dans ma langue maternelle, et je vois au moins deux bonnes raisons de faire une entorse à ma politique de publication. Soyons réalistes, l’anglais est une langue universellement comprise par les technophiles, et, persistant à vouloir partager avec le plus grand nombre, c’est la langue que j’ai choisie pour mes publications. Cependant, je suis très agacé par le récent raidissement de nos voisins anglo-saxons et leur repli économico-identitaire: non mesdames, non messieurs, vous n’êtes pas seuls au monde, vous ne détenez pas le monopole du savoir et de la science, ouvrez les yeux tant qu’il est encore temps. gasco abu dhabi contact Ceci étant dit, cet article va traiter d’un sujet que seuls les mangeurs de grenouilles, porteurs de béret et accrédités à délivrer le French kiss (tiens, voilà t’y pas que je rechute) peuvent comprendre. Je vais vous parler d’une petite merveille qui a permis l’introduction des principes de l’informatique jusqu’au plus profond des campagnes et qui a été détrônée par la vague Internet au seuil du deuxième millénaire après 30 ans de bons et loyaux services. Je veux parler du Minitel bien entendu.

Pour éviter d’avoir à gérer l’élimination massive des déchets produits par l’obsolescence du Minitel, France Télécom a très généreusement fait cadeau des Minitels à ses abonnés… Bonne aubaine pour les bidouilleurs de tout poil, car le Minitel est une sorte de console compacte dotée d’un clavier de saisie, d’un écran monochrome (couleur pour les derniers modèles) et de deux interfaces: l’une qui était bien entendu reliée à la ligne téléphonique et l’autre permettait une communication de type série avec des périphériques externes! Donc je récapitule: un produit bien conçu, compact et costaud, configurable comme console et disponible en masse pour pas cher (10 à 20 € en moyenne): Supeeeeer ! (Blague pour initiés)

• Lorsque le programme est lancé, le Minitel doit afficher afficher deux lignes d’entête et 32 lignes (paramètrable) de pseudo image mémoire sous forme de deux séries verticales comportant chacune une colonne d’adresses séquentielles (hexa) et de contenu mémoire (12 octets) constitué de caractères aléatoires n’appartenant pas à l’alphabet.

Le principal défi technique à relever est l’intégration de tout le code ainsi que la base de mots de 6 lettres, soit 7773 mots) dans une simple carte Arduino . Et pour corser le tout, le fab-lab disposait de 15 jours pour boucler le sujet ! Au départ, je me suis posé la question de développer un algorithme de compression pour réduire la taille de la base, mais le temps faisant défaut, et surtout, souhaitant impliquer nos jeunes développeurs, j’ai bâti le projet sur des bases plus simples. Une option aurait pu consister à intégrer la base dans une carte SD, mais nous n’avions pas de shield sous la main. electricity voltage in china J’ai aussi fouillé sur la toile à la recherche de librairies de pilotage du Minitel, et, bingo, j’en ai trouvé plusieurs, plus ou moins à mon gout et surtout assez gourmandes en mémoire. Au final, j’ai opté pour un code maison, le plus compact possible, de manière à libérer un maximum d’espace mémoire (mémoire programmable) pour y loger les mots clé. J’ai écrit un petit algo très simple pour décimer les mots clés et conserver au final 3000 mots répartis de manière homogène dans l’alphabet. Partant de là, yapuka !

It did not take long before I found one on the Internet and got it delivered in a small envelop. Although this module is mostly known as the DF-Player Mini, it sounds like its original name is FN-M16P. This module is amazingly small, thanks to the use of Micro-SD card (aka TF card) on one side and two tiny ICs, one for the card management the other for amplifying the signal in order to directly connect a speaker to the module. A blue diode will light up when the module is playing songs.

What is new to this design ? Firstly, there is no longer this basic human interface. The module is controlled by the MCU through a serial communication. Rx from one side connected to the opposite Tx. The two 1 kOhm resistors have been suggested by previous authors in order to attenuate the noise generated by the MCU and circulating through the communication lines. An ultimate solution would consist in using a level adapter as the the module is 3.3 V compliant, 5 V tolerant. In the same spirit, one may want to filter the power supply by adding a couple of capacitors, C1 ~tens of µF / 10 V and C2 0.1 µF / 10V. electricity song lyrics Also new is the use of the DAC outputs connected to any amplified speaker through a stereo line cord. This is the design that I used for testing and writing the related code.

Last but not least, here is a link to the data sheet. Although many copies or clones are available, most fail to provide accurate information. And this one is no even fully accurate, nor does it provide clear information… Some reverse engineering has been necessary to get deeper in the understanding, and while seeking for information I inadvertently found undocumented commands !

Next posts will relate to the code I wrote. But hey, stop ! Why bother writing code while it looks like many libraries exist ? Well the thing is that none from the three ones I downloaded worked from scratch and I found them pretty complex (in fact too much too complex) for plain applications. So that I decided to write a library my own way. As the documentation is not so good (compared to European standards), it took me sometime to get a clear picture of the available commands and the way they could be used.

You do not to tidy or apply any naming convention to your file in the “sound player” mode. Copy up to 3000 tracks on a SD-Card and you’re done. For the “sound manager” mode, you have three options: store 65536 files in one special folder (named “MP3”), store up to 3000 files in 15 folders or store up to 255 files in 99 folders ! Each file must be preceded by its index. eg. 001-song_for_you.mp3, 002-song_for_me.mp3, … 255-song_for_them.mp3, in folders 01, 02 … 99. This is a glimpse at the principle of use and it may be helpful for thinking at applications such as a thermometer for the blind…