Bmw 5-series 530i e60 (2003-2010) – replacing the rear shocks – pelican parts technical article bp gas prices


While this is an easy job, it can be a very tight fit getting the shock out of the wheel well and if you are working by yourself I recommend taking a few moments and removing the wheel well liners before you start working on the shocks. This will free up lots of room to maneuver the shock out of the wheel well.

Support the wheel carrier with a jack and remove the strut assembly lower bolt connecting the strut to the wheel bearing carrier with an 18mm socket and breaker bar. Detach the strut form the carrier and tie it in place so when you undo the fasteners in the trunk it will not fall and damage something.

Move back to the wheel arch and push the wheel carrier down while guiding the strut between the guide arm and control arm. This is where removing the wheel well liner will really come in handy as it will give you a lot more room to remove the strut.

Take the strut to your bench and using a set of good spring compressors compress the springs. With the tension off the top use an 18mm wrench and 7mm Allen to remove the top nut. Install new shock making sure that the springs sit in their proper spots on the pad stops and that one of the upper studs lines up with the short end of the strut bushing. This will help when you reinstall the strut.

Comments: I just replaced the shocks on a 2010 E60 528i. The driver side was like the instructions show. Pretty straight forward. Hardest part was reconnecting the lower shock tower to the suspension. The tower is about 2-3 inches too long as compared to where the suspension wants to sit without tension. So you end up putting serious downward force on the suspension to get the shock aligned. Other than that, pretty straight forward.

The passenger side is a another story! It has the gas filler on that side and so the wheel well is full of plastic pipes, vents, canisters and such. You can NOT just pull the shock out like illustrated. I had to remove the gas tank ventilation gear on the trunk side of the well to get the shock tower out. The bottom of the shock ended up back towards the center differential, left in the anti-sway bar area or right towards the front of the car. All to hel- the TOP of the shock to work its way out past the tubes, wires and plastic parts bolted to the wheel well. It helped to remove the bushing for the anti-sway bar to get it completely out of the way two 13mm bolts/nuts. And I took two 10mm bolts out of the emission vapor ‘box’ on the left side too.

Now I need to replace the front shocks and I wanted to know, is there any issue replacing a standard chassis shock by a sport one ? Are they 100% compatible ? It’s not that I absolutely need a sport shock, i’m just fine with the standard models, but the price difference doesn’t seem that high, and since I already replaced my rear shocks with sport ones… I figured I might as well do the same for the front.

Comments: Great write up. Really helped for my strut replacement. Only thing I would add is, in order to get the passenger side strut out, you have to loosen and lower an emission control box in the wheel well. This is easily done by removing two 10 mm nuts and lifting the box out of the way.