Bmw e90 rear shock replacement e91, e92, e93 pelican parts diy maintenance article electricity around the world


Comments: I followed all the procedure but after installing everything I hear the top mount squeaking after going to a bump on both sides. everything brand new and lower shock mount. everything torqued to specs. I was thinking to put a lube in between the top strut mount and the rubber insulatorchassis part would that help?

Comments: Nick at Pelican Parts – Please stop saying to grab a repair manual for instructions on removal of trim, repair and replacement of needed parts. We have an E91, there are no pictures, no description only specs for basics. I understand that some repair manual, such as my VW one have pictures etc. but the Bentley BMW 3Series Service Manual is pretty useless for this procedure.

Comments: I replaced my upper and lower shock mount using your tutorial and it seeming worked well. That is until 3 months later when I heard a clunking from the drivers side rear. It’s seems that the lower shock nut has come loose and fallen off. Not sure if on the flat sided flange nut you have to use a centre punch and notch the thread to keep it from backing off. Just a comment that might be useful. My question is do you know the thread size and pitch for the lower rear shock bolt? The 17mm one from the write up My shock is actually a Bilstein B6 # BE5-C039-HO. Going to have to buy a new nut at the parts store tomorrow. Thanks, Matt.

Comments: E93 2007 – small cut out in carpet does not give access to top mount. You have to remove the carrier bolted over the top 2x13mm nuts with captive washers of the carpet to be able to remove carpet and gain access to top mounts. It’s much easier with the roof half down and the boot lid vertical. Will post pictures.

Comments: I have a 2009 335i convertible that needs rear struts replacement. I see two cut-outs in the trunk carpet, just above the top of each strut, and I wonder if I can get access to the top nuts through there, without removing all the trunk trim like in your example ? Mike.

Comments: Have a major squeak.08 e92 w /245k. Right rear shock area.I usually disasemble only.after reading this tutorial feel confidence to tackle shock replacement w/ mounts.seems pretty straightforward.what’s the best strut in the$75 each range since I have to buy the mounts as well?

-Bolt the shock mount to the lower control arm BEFORE trying to put the top into the hole. The mount must flex to get the shock to a vertical position and it will skew the lower shock mount bolts making it difficult to impossible to install them.

-After the lower shock mount with shock is installed then compress the shock and push the shock inboard and let it expand into the hole. I then refitted the tire and lowered it to the ground. This improves the angle of the shock to the hole and it aligns more easily.

What I found made it easier to get the shock out was: -Loosen or remove the lower shock mount bolts while weight is on the wheel keeps the shock most vertical so the bolts aren’t being pulled over. I also undid the top shock mount bolt before raising the car.

-Lift the wheel off the ground and remove the tire. Yah the tire has to come off. Unlike in the E46. I found I didn’t need to support the control arm. It didn’t droop much and no worries of it "popping" as it slowly expands as the car is lifted.

Comments: I think the top shock fastener bolt for the rear shock mount is loose, i can hear loose metal clunking on one side only going over speed bumps. In the tutorial it says to jack up the arm to raise the shock back into the trunk, can i tighten the bolt while the car is currently planted on the ground, or will the shock spin while i tighten if i do it that way?

Comments: I replaced all parts following this tutorial shocks, lower shock mount, bushings, bump stop, rubber, etc. All bolts were fully tightened with the swing arm jacked up to ride height. While driving and watching the top shock mount bolt/stem/bushing in the trunk, it seems to have some minor bounce up and down. Is this bounce expected?

Lastly if you cheap out and use Monroe shocks like I did they do make installation as difficult as possible by 1 not having a hex shaped area on the lower black part as shown in Rick’s picture and 2 not having a hex stem on the top to hold with your 6mm socket while tightening the nut

Luckily the 28 ft-lb’s necessary for the bottom is achievable by just holding the shock with one hand and ratcheting the nut on with the other. For the top I held the stem with a vice grip and used a ratcheting box end wrench to tighten the nut.

Comments: Sorry I don’t quite follow the answer to my first comment. I should raise up the left side, put a stand under left side, then go raise and repair right side? What should I use to support the control arm from slamming down, just place a jack stand under it too? Thanks

– After the anchor assemblies are removed, the rear seat backs must be folded forward / down. This will allow you to pull the side panels out, allowing access to the top of the shocks. The release handles are located at the top of the trunk, slightly forward of the trunk lip, on the right and left side. It’s in such an obvious place that it’s easy to miss.

– Unless you disassemble the knuckle assembly from the control arm it’s impossible to get an open end wrench in to tighten the bottom nut as shown above. Instead the bottom stem is hex shaped right under the shock tube. Just use a 13mm open end wrench to secure when tightening the bottom nut.

Comments: If I use a hydraulic jack to lift up one rear side at a time at the lifting pad location, would using a another "screw jack" like the typical ones found in vehicle trunks with their spare tires be enough to hold the lower control arm from slamming down ? I only have a hydraulic jack, two jack stands, and can grab a jack from another vehicle, but I’m not sure if this will be enough to complete the repair ? Thanks in advance !