Chevy colorado diesel towing – irv2 forums gas exchange in the lungs occurs due to

tuffr2, 6k as presented by OP should be the estimated wet weight not dry or gvwr. The TW should be between 10 & 15 percent ie 600 to 900. Last when using a WDH TW includes the weight of the hitch itself. A WDH makes it dynamic weight not static weight.

Raineman, What would make you imagine the trailer would push the truck all over the place? The Colorado with driver would weight at least 5,000 add likely 700 TW from the trailer that is 5,700 on the truck axles. Transfer 700 from the trailer to the truck leaves only 5,300 on the trailer axles. No reason the tail should wag that dog unless hitch and loading was done extremely poorly and then that would be a hitch and loading problem not a fundamental problem from the size & weights of the truck and trailer. IE concretely correctable via adjusting WDH and weight distribution in both the truck and TT via scale results.

Guys its not voodoo. No reason to try to spook someone. Simply replace your unloaded steer weight. Make sure your drive axle weight is below max axle rating. Make sure your TW is in the 10 to 15 percent range. (With a WDH actual TW is found by subtracting unloaded TV combined axle weight from loaded TV axle weights.)

Home transporter = front wheel to HITCH OVER REAR AXLE to (long distance) trailer wheels to very little overhang. Not to mention the semi truck has two very stiff rear axles with 2 tires each… some mh transport trucks have one axle with 4 tires on rear axle, but surely the half a mobile home is no where near the capacity of the transport. and the hitch crooks up and straight down right at the axle. I also cannot speak to the suspension setup of a mh transport trailer, but most I’ve seen have 3 or more axles and slow speeds. But I can say that most travel trailer suspension is pretty terrible.

I think it’s important to keep in mind that the job of the rear suspension of any truck is to control the trailer by use of physical opposing force. A leaf spring is designed to return a truck from a dip or bump, and consequently to help return the trailer and keep the trailer from over rebounding. If the leaf spring is already at or near maximum capacity, it loses it ability to be a spring. At that point, the trailers leaning can exert enough force to over power the trucks ability to return. Then when the trailer returns, it forces the truck instead of the other way around.

Then you combine a short truck, with a leverage point behind the rear axle and springs you end up with a see saw controlled by the trailers dynamic weight shifting from the point of the hitch. To this end, most drivers prefer very strong rear ends, very strong front ends, and a longer truck that resists pivoting. A rear end strong enough to positively control the trailer in the multitude of driving situations one encounters, which are numerous.

Now, if you were only going back and forth to your local state park 30 miles away twice a year.. maybe not as big a deal. However, if one truly plans to travel many miles, the situation is always improved by a tow vehicle described above, which changes based on the trailer. An F150 max tow package is a strong rear end for a small trailer. A 2500 series rear end is a great, even stronger rear end package for a 6000, 7, 8000 lb trailer that I would feel very confident in it’s ability to control a trailer in all but the most dire dynamic situations.

What the Colorado does have against it when towing a long tall boxy TT is its slightly narrower wheelbase. Which is one reason why I always say the diesel Colorado is ideal for towing a boat. But just because I would prefer and choose a 1500 doesn’t mean a Colorado isn’t up to do the job and safely when set up properly.

raineman not to be a dic but then you should study them physics as GM has. Did the linked post Colorado owner describe a white knuckle experience towing the same size TT? No he did not. It sounds to me like you need to learn how to set up a rig properly. Nothing more. Certainly a heavy diesel dually makes it easy to skip learning this until you tow something at what its rated for.

I’m not talking actually loading the Colorado to the bleeding edge GM has already made sure there is plenty of safety margin loaded to its max rating when properly set up to be within all specs. But there is only so much a Mfg can do to idiot proof something if people don’t understand physics nor use the specs they can will and have put themselves in harms way. Certainly you can deal with something more than one way. You can load and join it properly using WDH (per GM recommendation here) Mfg specs and scale or buy a truck dramatically bigger than necessary for the particular job. Both work.

Tuffr OP should be able to tow that across the county on hwys with semis safely & reliably according to GM per its rating. Naturally set to meet all specs. Been doing it daily for three TT Mfgs the last four years and 430,000 miles with my efficient small diesel truck.

Do you have scale slips from your white knuckle Rideline trips? If so we likely can quickly determine why it was white knuckle. Again its not voodoo. Per your post if you set up the same trailer with the same hitch on the same setting then either your Ridgline or your 150 was almost certainly set up wrong. Guess which one it was or compare scale slips and see it in print.