Converting tour pack to quick detach gas laws worksheet chapter 5 answers


Now unplug all the wires going to the tour pack. Each plug has a tap that has to be pressed or lifted to separate the two parts of the plug. You may have a couple cable ties to cut. Also a couple of the plugs have to slide out of clips holding them in place.

With all the wires to the tour pack dis-connected, the tour pack can be removed. Find an area where you plan to set the tour pack and put a blanket there to protect it. Remove both tour pack antenna. Then it’s best to remove the saddle bags to make easier access to the four torques that hold it in place. Loosen the four torques and remove them. The tour pack will not fall and will sit without the torques in place. Now to lift the tour pack out, lift up at the back and carefully slide back and up. I had a towel on the fender in case. Set the tour pack on the blanket upside down.

With the tour pack removed the 4-Point Docking hardware can be installed. I used the four torques that held the tour pack in place rather than the four that came in the kit. Position the two brackets in place and tighten the torques. The instruction for mounting the hardware on the brackets are wrong for the two closest to the front, for the back two it is correct. For the front the washer does not go in first, but the spacer does. Also the rubber mount the side that has the fatter metal goes out, not in like the instruction say. Put these on loosely. You may have to adjust to smoothly fit your rack.

Then set the solo rack on and test fitment. You may have to adjust washer position. Also the instructions show how to rotate the rubber through a 090 degree range to adjust tightness. Get this all set with the rack before you mount the tour pack. Once satisfied tighten the four rubber mounts.

With the tour pack upside down on a blanket or such, remove the four nuts holding the factory mount on the tour pack. Once removed, lift the mount away and set aside. Place the new quick detach rack in place, make sure you position it so the forward side of the quick detach is forward on tour pack. Once set in place side it forward or rearward to your desired location and tighten the nuts.

Modify the wiring harness to work with TP both on and off. This is easy to do, just takes patients and care. The black cloth covering can be carefully pulled apart starting at the plug end. There is an adhesive holding it together. Work it apart going all the way back to just above the battery.

Now with the cloth cover opened up, cut all the tape holding the wires together. Be careful not to cut a wire. Now pull the two wires and plug out that go to the left saddle bag, and the two wires and plug out that go to the right saddle bag.

Re-tape the main harness in the same places it was taped before. Tape the area the wires were pulled out of the main harness. I then with help taped the pair of wires to the right back starting at the harness going to the plug. I taped them the tightly the entire length.

Then did the same for the right bag. Last I re wrapped the main harness with the cloth covering leaving the two bag wires out. This is so when running with just the solo seat, the rest of the harness can be under the seat. As you can see below that the two bag plugs are nice and neat, and separate from the main harness now, and the main harness looks stock.

For the new licence plate mounting fist I use painters tape and mask the fender all around the light and light bar so I do not scratch anything. Then take the tail light off. This has to be done to get at the plugs behind it. The tail light just un plugs from the bike. Now you can take off the turn signal bar. This is two bolts that you can get from behind the fender, with the tire in place. 10mm socket if I remember correctly. Once it is loos and off it will be hanging by two pair of wires. Just un plug both pair from the tail light housing and then remove them from the clips under the fender and pull them out.

Now the Curved license plate frame #67900008 needs to have a little grinding done so it will fit into the turn signal bracket. Its just a little around the edges until it fits. I did it with a dremel tool and grinding wheels for it. A bench grinder would be faster. It took me about 5 to 10 minutes. Its the top edges and side edges around the bolt holes where it will bolt to the turn signal bar.

Pull the wires back thru the fender and into the tail light. Looking at the rear of the bike I pulled the new wires in on the left side, as they will plug in on the left side of the tail light. Once the wires are pulled in, just bolt the turn signal bar into place. Plug both turn signals back in where you un plugged them from. The new wires will go in the three pin slot above where the tail light will plug back in. If I remember correctly the left side is negative and the right side is positive. Test with meter with ignition on. You can by pin connectors from HD 73191-96 will fit these perfectly. I will replace the home made spade connectors I used with the HD 73191-96 individual connectors. I will also get the3-Pin Receptacle Housing: 73153-96BK What I did was took a spade connector, and cut one side off and smashed it with pliers until it was a tight fit on the pin, then did it for the other one. Now just screw the tail light back into place. I put a metal HD decal over the white lite on the tail light that shined on the old plate location.

In picture below you can see the pair of purple and black wires for the left turn signal on the left side, and the similar pair on the right side for the right turn signal. You can see the green ground I added and the yellow hot for the plate frame to the empty 3 pin plug, middle not used. right below that is where the tail light plugs in.

Nice job Dave. I like what you did to split out the saddlebag wires for the electric locks. I’ll have to consider doing that on mine. However, if I get lazy I’ll just run without electric locks and use the key if I really need to lock them up. I concur on the passenger floor boards. If you are riding solo best to get rid of them. I seem to hit them with my legs, especially the right one when mounting. As for the saddlebag crash bars, I am going to keep mine on and get some saddlebag water bottle holders. Since the fairing lowers don’t have a glove compartment anymore I lost my bottle carrier. During the summers I usually get two 1-liter bottles at gas stops and will have them drunk by the next gas stop. I like the heated gear connector in the heat shield as well. My only problem is that I use the battery tender converter for my heated gear. I guess I’ll still have wires exposed. Also, thanks for providing the connector pin part number. I am thinking they must make a 3-pin connector because that 3-wire socket is intended for a fender trim light option.

I was able to recycle a 2009 HD plate holder from my take-off parts shelf. The Kuryakyn plate frame I both has 2 different lights. A red led running/brake light and a combo red led running light and white led light to light the plate. Frankly the white light is not illuminating the plate very well but it meets the intent of the law. I had to hack on the Kuryakyn frame a bit to fit with the turn light assembly. You really don’t see if unless you walk up to it and give it a thorough inspection.

On the TP, did you move it all the way forward on the solo detach mount or is there still room for forward movement? I am just wondering if the solo could be configured to eliminate the seat backrest and strictly use the TP backrest. I saw a post where someone did that on a slightly different setup that didn’t have the armrests and speakers.