Creampuff roadtreks are out there if you look… – page 2 – class b forums electricity and magnetism study guide 5th grade

The roof is metal as it’s a T1N Sprinter. Interblog you win, the seams on your T1N were worse than mine. I think all the seams on mine were leaking, one of the roof vents was cracked on 3 sides, the seams above the windshield were leaking which I discovered when it started raining on my feet during a long, wet drive. Every time I thought I had fixed all the leaks, I’d find a new one and it was a very rainy year (probably a good thing), so I just kept finding more leaks and more problems. There is a section of rust at the bottom of the windshield that I’m sure will have to be cut out and welded.

My RV sat unused for at least 5 years, a lot can deteriorate in that amount of time when it’s left outside to rot in the sun. Someone tried to fix the leak in the bathroom by pulling the vent and reinstalled it using silicone, which doesn’t stick to plastic so it leaked under the flange too and the silicone was incredibly difficult to remove from the paint. I replaced the bathroom vent and the fantastic vent in case it was cracked too.

My last trip the propane sensor went off the very first night and I had to pull the fuse to get it to stop and I was having problems with the refrigerator on propane, so I was a little paranoid for the whole trip. I replaced all the safety sensors/alarms and fire extinguisher when I returned.

After that trip across the entire USA… yeah, we went a lot of places.. coming back I’m realizing that yes, I need a more stable suspension. Did I expect this to happen at 41,000 miles… NO, I didn’t, but, it’s a lot of weight. Being safe is a number one priority for me…. It’s $3,100 … but losing my life, having an accident in the rig, is a whole lot more !!

My RV shop tells me that they have so many clients who have brought their rigs in for a suspension upgrade… seems like a lot of manufacturers of the base van don’t consider the extra constant weight of the conversion and everything that’s going to hang off the chassis…. three water tanks, black, fresh and gray… generator, plus all of the kitchen equipment inside and bathroom fixtures.

In regards to suspension, these RVs are built on commercial vehicles. They are built to haul around tools and materials up to the highest capacity possible with little regards to comfort. In the case of an RV, we have a fairly stable weight throughout the life of the vehicle. But RV manufactures barely touch the suspension as it becomes an added cost that customers aren’t willing to pay for.

Having a suspension shop/mechanic adjust the suspension to what the vehicle has become (an RV) makes a lot of sense. In my case I went a little "overboard" but I’m building it to go just about anywhere. Plus the suspension is being adjusted to the proper weight. The upgrades are almost done! I can’t wait to try it out properly in about 2-3 weeks!

Turns out the roof is way too far gone to be patched. It needs to be replaced. The underlayment (plywood) is rotten too. I was able to find a shop that could replace the roof for about $12K. Most of the cost isn’t for the roof itself. It’s for the labor required to remove much of the inside of the RV so a new roof can be welded on, then re-install everything.

The shop got started on the work and quickly discovered more trouble. One of the first steps is to remove the front windshield. When they did this, they discovered the front "cowl" that holds the bottom edge of the windshield was also completely rusted. They tell me this caused the windshield to fall and break when they were pulling it back from the top.

On a slightly more positive note, they suggested that insurance might cover the cowl as that damage was caused by a faulty windshield installation and they said they could prove it if the insurance company is willing to consider it. I’ve got a call into insurance, but my gut tells me this will likely not be covered.

OK…few questions…. did the coach have any service records when you purchased it.. even a CarMax report?? In 2015…it had 26,000 miles…. where was this ?? For a Class B… that’s really hard to believe…. even 61,000 miles seems extremely low…..is it possible that the vehicle odometer was rolled over or something when you got it?

Good questions, all. I’m the third owner. It lived the first 19 years of its life in Oklahoma. The first owner used it for a couple of years, and the passed away and his widow kept it out by the garage in OK for the next fourteen years. The water system wasn’t drained and the water heater burst and the water pump failed. I replaced both. The second owner bought it intending to use it, but the charging system had an issue. Again it sat at his house for about 3 years under a carport. A mouse or squirrel or something had chewed through a line from the alternator… I bought it knowing that there was a problem. An auto-electric shop had that, the multi-function turn signal switch and the airbag activator all replaced in under two hours. One of the upper windows filled with gunk, and it leaked inside for years, rotting out a couple of pieces of wood that Coachmen used as trim. I replaced those. I had all of the fluids drained and replaced, new brakes, and of course new tires; did a complete tune-up and a few other things… but yes, it’s actual mileage and I’ve put 35k on it now for the 61k total.

Mileage. Mileage is an interesting topic and, generally speaking in the motorhome world, a topic that is entirely misguided. Without going into great detail here, you can read my views on motorhome mileage here if you’re interested. But 13mpg is actually pretty darned good for a Ford B-van chassis from the era. I used to have an Airstream B-van on the E-350 chassis (the Coachmen is on a heavy-3/4 ton E-250 chassis) with the 460 in it and I consistently got 7-8 mpg with that. I get better mileage than the Airstream got in my 32′ Kodiak-chassis Born Free.

The bottom line is that for $10k total I’ve used the van for three years and all of the systems work, and work well… and I figure I likely saved something close to $100k over buying a newer Sprinter-chassis van. It’s all old-school systems I can work on myself and all of the systems are easy to get to for maintenance.

It doesn’t have an inside shower, although it has an exterior shower setup. The way I use the van, that’s not a problem though. There’s almost always a shower available when I need one… truck stops, campgrounds, YMCA’s… you just need to know where to look. Actually NOT having a shower in a 19′ van is a good thing as a shower is a LOT of wasted space, and not terribly useful anyway when you have such small freshwater and gray water tanks.

The rear dinette conversion makes for a large cargo area for hauling the dog crate, Brompton, and tool bags I carry to work on my apartments. I don’t mind hauling plywood, or sheetrock, or my dogs in it. AND it’s extraordinarily comfortable to drive and travel in. AND it has the good old injected 351 Windsor in it with the reliable e4OD trans.