Dipstick tubes, dipsticks and oil pans… – e46fanatics gas what i smoke


What I find VERY surprising, is that the bottom of the tube is actually several inches BELOW the "Full" oil level in the sump, and the end of the dipstick is several inches ABOVE the bottom of the tube. When I first looked at the arrangement, it appeared to me the transverse hole would be a "vent" hole, to allow air to escape from the (otherwise sealed) inner tube when the oil level increases. However, with a full fill of oil, even that hole will be nearly, if not entirely, below the oil level!

This seems to me a very bizarre arrangement! I expected the oil level to be BELOW the end of the tube, with the end of the dipstick simply hanging with its end submerged in the oil. This is NOT the case. But should it be? Is this really the way it should be? What keeps that vent hole from being obstructed by the wall of the hole in the block when it’s installed?

This could, however, help explain the bizarre thing that happened a few days ago, where I pulled the dipstick after the car sat over-night, and it showed that there was 2+ quarts TOO MUCH oil in the sump! After wiping off the dipstick and checking again, the level was exactly on "Full". I had added oil the night before, with the dipstick left in place. pictures electricity pylons Since the oil level, at "Full" is right at the hole, when I pulled out the dipstuck the first time, the O-rings at the top end of the dipstick cause suction in the tube, so oil was pulled UP the tube, covering the bottom end of the dipstick with oil to well above the "Full" line.

It is a VERY simple device, almost entirely "passive" device. Note that there is one, and only one, "active" part in the CCV – the crankcase pressure regulator, which is about the simplest possible pressure regulator, using a diaphragm and spring. It is "driven" by manifold vacuum, and pulls a partial vacuum in the crankcase through the breather port on the left-front of the valve cover. The pressure regulator housing is at the top-center of the photo. electricity production in india The orange diapragm and spring are at the lower left of the photo.

The hose fitting on the right side of the housing connects to the intake manifold, though the "air balance manifold" that sits atop the intake manifold, and connects to the six intake runners. The round raised area in the center of the diaphragm can close off the manifold vacuum input from the regulator to control the pressure. The result is a controlled, partial vacuum inside the crankcase, and inside the CCV itself, particularly the oil separator.

The other key part of the assembly is the oil separator, which is simply a spiral channel in the bottom half of the oil separator assembly that uses gravity to separate liquid oil from the vapors drawn in through the valve cover breather port, which is connected to the hose fitting at the outer-most point of the spiral channel. Each time the pressure regulator valve opens, pulling the pressure inside the CCV slightly lower, crankcase "fumes", containing both vapors and some liquid oil droplets, are drawn in from the breather port on the valve cover and into the oil separator. Any oil droplets, or liquid oil that condenses out of the vapors as they cool, will simply find their way into the separator, slowly travel through the spiral (presumably to cooling down and condensing further along the way), then simply fall down the return hose to the dipstick tube.

2) Leaks – ANY leak that even partially relieves crankcase pressure (i.e. – an open or leaking oil filler cap, a missing or leaking dipstick, a broken, loose or damaged hose/pipe, etc. will cause the pressure regulator to remain open longer/more often than it should, which constitutes a manifold vacuum leak. world j gastrointest surg impact factor This will result in lean-running, as this is un-metered air. "Smoke-testing" the crankcase should easily identify any leaks, as will looking at the DME STFT/LTFT values (which will read high if there are any persistent leaks).

3) Blockages – Any blockage in ANY of the breather pipes/hoses, inside the oil separator, or inside the dipstick tube can obstruct return of oil from the CCV to the crankcase through the dipstick tube. Eventually, enough oil can collect within the CCV to cause liquid oil to be drawn into intake manifold. NOTHING good will come of this. electricity meaning At best, you’ll be burning a lot of oil. At worst, though much less likely, there is the possibility of getting enough oil into a cylinder to cause a hydraulic lock on the compression stroke, which WILL bend a connecting rod. Examination of the spark plugs will tell you whether or not you are burning oil, as will examining the intake manifold between the "air balance manifold" that sits atop the intake manifold and the intake ports. If that area is coated with oil, you probably have a problem.

In my case, I see nothing wrong with my CCV. It is regulating pressure properly, and at a reasonable pressure level. The exact vacuum level is not at all critical, as long as it is not too high – it simply needs to be slightly below ambient pressure, so fumes do not escape into the atmosphere. gas bubble I have a brand-new CCV, installed a few weeks ago, so I see NO chance of any other internal problems. All the pipes and hoses are brand-new, and the dipstick tube is clean as a whistle inside and out. I have confirmed that I am burning oil, by examining a few spark plugs. The only conclusion I can reach is the oil control rings must be worn. gas near me prices Sadly, I can see no way to positively confirm this, short of tearing the engine apart, since the compression rings seem to be just fine (compression readings are exemplary!), so, even a leak-down test is unlikely to tell me anything of value. So, looks like I need to consider doing a ring job…

The oil droplets are separated from the gas mixture by the cyclone – heavier oil droplets hit the concentric wall – and not gravity. The cyclone works best with high incoming mixture speed – the higher the speed the more droplets hit the wall. The center of the concentric wall cyclone is connected to the drain tube. The mixture enters the cyclone from the outer edge of the concentric wall. If the dipstick tube is not submerge then the CCV vacuum will pull gas from the oil pan up and straight into the intake manifold, and less gas pulled in, and move slowly through the concentric wall. electricity generation definition If this happens then no oil collected on the wall to drain down.

The old 2-layer dipstick was design as such to prevent faulty reading on the dipstick while the oil was dripping from CCV down into the red plastic tip. The smart engineer designed such a complicate expensive but trouble device – it clogged up easily due to narrow passage between the double steel layers. The new single tube has bigger passage, but the user must check the oil only after the CCV stoped draining.

If your tube is a double-layer old version, check if the drain passage is clogged by blowing into the rubber drain tube (disconnected from CCV) and of course you will hear the bubbling in the oil pan. (Maybe when they replaced your damaged oil pan with a used pan, which came with an old clogged up double layer tube and your car start drinking oil.)