Diy valve check and adjustment 66 gas station near me


3a. Lift tank slightly to unplug breather hose, unplug overflow hose, unclip fuel pump wiring harness, Unplug fuel line (slide orange clip down, press both blue buttons on the sides to remove. there is a valve to keep the fuel from coming out of the tank so dont worry about leaks.) wrap rag around the end of the fuel hose to catch the drips

4b. You will need to loosen the three hose clamps on the intake runners, these are captive and will not be lost into the depths of the bike. It was helpful to use a hex key with a ball end to get at the hose clamps from odd angles. Loosen and lift/remove airbox.

12. Unclip radiator fan wiring harness and remove the 4 black bolts to remove radiator fan. With the radiator fully unmounted and leaning against the front fender, you should have clearance to remove the valve cover and still keep your radiator attached

13. Remove the 4 valve cover bolts. One is longer than the others so take note of position. Remove the valve cover and take care to maintain the rubber gasket. You can reuse this if you do not tear it. Be sure not to dent/damage the rear of your radiator when pulling out your valve cover.

These bikes are known to have very tight exhaust valves. At 23k miles, I found that my Exhaust valves were approximately .14mm and my intake valves were all in spec. If you have reached this point and all of your valves are in spec, congratulations, you’re a lucky one and you can put your bike back together doing the reverse of the disassembly shown above. If you are like the majority of owners, your exhaust valves are tight and you will need to remove the cam chain tensioner, cams, re-shim, and replace the cams, and the cam chain tensioner. You can find instructions to remove the cams starting on p.228 of the service manual.

18. Remove the cam chain tensioner (CCT). Undo the inner bolt first (pictured), followed by the outer bolt. (the center bolt is actually a cap for the CCT) You may find that your CCT will pop out since it is under pressure. When you have removed the CCT, DO NOT rotate your crank position until it has been installed and under tension again.

19. Remove camshaft caps. To prevent damage to the cams, caps, or cylinder head, loosen in multiple stages and a crisscross pattern. I cracked the fasteners loose first, and then followed up again to completely back them out. Pictured below is the pattern I went with. Note the numbers cast into the large cap, they are helpful for re-torquing. The Two smaller caps are Marked EL and IL for Exhaust and Intake respectively. This is the pattern I went with.

22. Utilize your magnet tool to pull the valve buckets off the top of the valve springs. When I removed my buckets, the shims came with them. Ensure you keep track of which buckets, and shims came from which valve. This will ensure that you are able to calculate the correct adjustments needed.

23. Reinstall the intake camshaft, then the exhaust camshaft (p.231). Ensure that your crank is still in position BTDC. If you haven’t touched it you should see the little triangle mark in the timing window still. Reinstall with punch marks on cams facing upwards. These will later align with vertical marks once you install the camshaft caps.

26a. Apply compression to CCT with one hand while turning the hex key counter-clockwise. Removal of the hex key will allow the mechanism to extend. Try it out in your hand to see what will happen when you remove the adjuster key while the CCT is mounted to the motor. You can either utilize a trimmed down hex key, or spend $$$ to buy the OEM tool.

26b. Install CCT with new gasket using loctite on the two mounting bolts on the outside. The center bolt does not require loctite. Below is the setup I used to get around purchasing the OEM tool. In the center, you can see my trimmed down hex key. I still had enough clearance to use a standard hex key to tediously tighten down the inside mounting bolt. I tightened the outside bolt first, and the inside bolt second. A mirror of the removal process. If you are a better person than me, and can get a torque wrench on the CCT mounting bolts, the torque spec is 7.2ft/lb with loctite the cap bolt in the center has a torque spec of 5.1ft/lbs

26c. Remove your trimmed down your adjuster tool from the center hole and allow the CCT to tension the cam chain. It should pop into place just as you tested in step 26a. Check to ensure there is solid tension on the cam chains before you attempt the next step.