Drive and reverse not working – bimmerfest – bmw forums gastronomia y cia

>can you get your X’s codes scanned ??????….if the coolant pump is kaput it will throw a code….see if you can borrow/buy a low cost code reader…..look up fiftees kid/nathans youtube channel for reasonably priced code readers …..look up fiftees kid channel for his home diy engine compression and leak down tests so you can get a better feel for your engine health/if you have a blown head gasket caused by overheating etc/what to fix

>when the electric coolant pump/thermostat combo goes bad it often puts your X in "limp mode"….it reduces your engine output and can put your transmission in a mode where only certain gears are usable so you can ‘limp" to the side of the road etc

>you can check the operation of your electric coolant pump which is lower front engine passenger side ….simply put the ignition with cluster lights all on but engine off …..then depress the gas pedal all the way for 30 ish seconds and let the pedal up….then go around and listen for the pump running and watch the neck of the coolant expansion reservoir for coolant stream returns …..you will have 10-12 minutes to listen for the pump operation……the procedure will suck lots of battery power so try and hook up a charger when you do it

Without coolant, no. You will get a "low coolant" indication on the dash very soon…like within 1 or 2 miles of the drive….you will have dash lights and if ignored, you brick the engine. With coolant and a bad t-stat+waterpump, then yes, it is possible to run down a BMW (bad design imo, but most auto manufacturers do this anyway…just kinda worse on the Bimmers with electronic water pumps)….without any indication until it’s too late (when you’re stranded and a sudden dash light pops up). When that temperature light is yellow, YOU STOP and call a tow truck….if it goes to red, there is potential for engine damage. For vehicles that will encounter an electronic water pump/thermostat issue, there will be "pending codes" that will be present on the DME, but there will be no dash lights until it is too late (the DME keeps compensating by increasing fan speed slightly, etc…again bad design for no indication to the owner…only to the mechanic). Basically, scan your vehicle with ISTA+ or INPA at least once a month, and if you see any pending codes for a t-stat/water pump issue, you immediately replace both along with coolant (OEM only) to avoid being stranded on the road….otherwise there’s no need to replace them.

Without coolant, no. You will get a "low coolant" indication on the dash very soon…like within 1 or 2 miles of the drive….you will have dash lights and if ignored, you brick the engine. With coolant and a bad t-stat+waterpump, then yes, it is possible to run down a BMW (bad design imo, but most auto manufacturers do this anyway…just kinda worse on the Bimmers with electronic water pumps)….without any indication until it’s too late (when you’re stranded and a sudden dash light pops up). When that temperature light is yellow, YOU STOP and call a tow truck….if it goes to red, there is potential for engine damage. For vehicles that will encounter an electronic water pump/thermostat issue, there will be "pending codes" that will be present on the DME, but there will be no dash lights until it is too late (the DME keeps compensating by increasing fan speed slightly, etc…again bad design for no indication to the owner…only to the mechanic). Basically, scan your vehicle with ISTA+ or INPA at least once a month, and if you see any pending codes for a t-stat/water pump issue, you immediately replace both along with coolant (OEM only) to avoid being stranded on the road….otherwise there’s no need to replace them.

doesn’t the temp gage tell you anything meaningful in time to avoid any of this ? having said that I was back in the states last weekend for the first time in 15 years and hertz gave me a new fusion to drive… I sat in it for 15 mins and finally had to get the manager to come out and show me how to start it and make anything work… the owners manual was 250 pages…

It does not. It simply tells when the engine reaches operating temperature (when the needle reaches center). The engine temperature varies depending on driving condition and the cooling of the engine is automatically adjusted by the ECU (BMW speak, DME) depending on driving condition. More info here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079189

If there is a waterpump issue, the DME will just keep compensating and store the issue as a "pending code"….they’re only visible with ISTA+ (ideal), INPA, or any other diagnostic scan tool capable of reading all control modules…..the pending code will not cause a dash light until the issue is too late. All modern vehicles operate like this. The idea is to fix the pending codes before they turn into trouble codes. More about the water pump codes on a google search: https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw+…hrome&ie=UTF-8

With coolant and a bad t-stat+waterpump, then yes, it is possible to run down a BMW (bad design imo, but most auto manufacturers do this anyway…just kinda worse on the Bimmers with electronic water pumps)….without any indication until it’s too late (when you’re stranded and a sudden dash light pops up). When that temperature light is yellow, YOU STOP and call a tow truck….if it goes to red, there is potential for engine damage. For vehicles that will encounter an electronic water pump/thermostat issue, there will be "pending codes" that will be present on the DME, but there will be no dash lights until it is too late (the DME keeps compensating by increasing fan speed slightly, etc…again bad design for no indication to the owner…only to the mechanic). .

There was no "yellow warning" – just a jump to red and engine thrown into limp mode. (although I had previously noted a lack of heat coming from the vents, as it was winter, but the temp still showed normal). I presume I could have driven the engine to destruction but it would have been a slow speed process

However there was no great expanse of steam indicating an overheated engine. After 15 mins, the engine was restarted and the temp stayed normal as the pump ran for a little while and then died again. Possibly the DME pegs the gauge to indicate serious trouble – i.e. non functional pump.