Drive smart to save money, fuel and co2 (while you wait for your tesla model y or other ev) red, green, and blue gas stations in texas

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With the upcoming announcement of the Tesla Model Y, and with better and better electric vehicles (EVs) coming out every year, many of our readers might be waiting to switch to an electric ride. Many are waiting for lower prices, more charging stations, more range, or simply want a form factor that isn’t yet available, like a pickup truck or off-road SUV.

If you haven’t already, look at your vehicle’s manual and, if you’re a DIYer, read a shop manual. It will give you a good idea of what the car needs and how often. When oil isn’t changed, filters get dirty, or things get too worn out, they usually start to cost you extra gas before they make noise or leave you stranded. By staying ahead of the maintenance, you don’t take the hit to fuel efficiency.

Tires are, quite literally, where the rubber meets the road. When the pressure gets low, it’s harder for your car to push itself down the road, and the car will use more fuel. Always air the tires up to at least the pressures recommended in the manual or inside the driver’s door. If you’re willing to put up with a little more road noise and a slightly harsher ride, you can air the tire up a few gas tax pounds higher to save fuel, but don’t go overboard. Too much pressure can increase the chance of a blowout.

If your car starts to make any strange noises, acts strangely at all, or gives you the dreaded “check engine” light, don’t ignore it. Consult a mechanic, do some internet searches, or read a shop manual. If you get the warning light, most auto parts stores provide free scans to see what is causing the problem. Fix it up ASAP before it starts costing you and before emissions increase. Keep an Eye on Your MPG

The simplest way to see how many miles per gallon you’re getting is to track your miles, track your gallons, and divide the miles by the gallons. People have been doing it this way for a long time, and a drop in efficiency was often a sign that the car needed a tuneup or other work to get efficiency back up. Just use your car’s odometer or trip odometer to see how many miles you drive between one fill-up and the next. If you fill the car until the pump first “clicks” off, and then do the same next time grade 9 electricity test and answers, you can check the pump’s display to see how many gallons you put in.

Hopefully, it will give you two important numbers: current MPG and average MPG. Current MPG tells you what kind of mileage you are getting right now. Going down a hill, this number may be in the hundreds, but going up a hill, the number might be very low, like 1–5 MPG. To see what your car does over several miles, you’ll need to watch the average MPG. The average can be reset, usually with a long-press of the OK or select button.

If your car doesn’t give this information on a dash display, but is a 1996 or newer model, you can use the OBD II port to get this information. One cheaper option is to use a bluetooth OBD adapter and a smartphone app like Torque Pro. If you want an option that requires less setup each time you drive, you might consider the ScanGauge II computer.

For older vehicles, your options are more limited. For vehicles with fuel injection that are older than a 1996, you might be able to install an MPGuino computer or have somebody with the skills to do so install one. For most older vehicles, the only option to see how efficient your car is from moment to moment would be to use a vacuum gauge ( more details here). Drive More Efficiently

Right away, it takes a big hit at the engine. Anywhere from 75–81% of the energy is lost, on average. Diesel engines are a little better, but still lose the vast majority power generation definition of the fuel’s energy. The problem here is waste heat. Most of the energy leaves the engine as heat through the radiator, the sides of the engine, and out the exhaust system. This heat drifts off into the atmosphere and is forever lost to any useful purpose. Only a small fraction (19–25% on average) of the fuel is converted to mechanical energy that moves the vehicle.

While automakers have made great progress on improving the efficiency of gas and diesel engines, the laws of physics are still in effect. About the only thing you can do to keep the engine from making waste heat is to shut it off. Hybrids, the most efficient gas vehicles, run the engine as little as possible, and that helps save fuel. Ultimately, though, manufacturers are going to need to switch to electric vehicles to stop the waste.

The other thing you can do is coast as much as possible with the transmission in gear (not neutral). For fuel-injected cars (most everything sold since the mid-1980s), the engine computer cuts fuel to the engine when you take your foot off the gas pedal. When this happens, you’re temporarily getting almost infinite MPG. The longer you coast when approaching a stop, the more you save.

One other thing you can do to save fuel is use engine accessories, like the alternator and air conditioning, less. High-powered stereo systems, battery chargers for tools, and doing anything else that draws a lot of power ultimately makes the engine work harder and uses some gas. While air conditioning is a life or death choice in hotter climates, you’d be surprised how often you can set climate control to vent only, without running the A/C, to keep the car comfortable.

Drivetrain losses are mostly from friction inside the transmission and differential. There’s not a lot you can do here to help once you’ve bought a car, but gas efficient cars 2012 if you buy another gas or diesel car, keep in mind that automatic transmissions have the most losses. Other designs, like manual transmissions and dual-clutch transmissions, waste less fuel.

If you do have an automatic transmission, try to minimize stops and starts as much as possible by picking highway routes, or driving on streets with fewer lights when possible. Also, if your transmission has a “sport mode,” “S” mode, “tiptronic,” “manumatic,” or “+/-” mode, the automatic transmission tries to act more like a manual and wastes less energy. Use those modes as much as possible.

Aerodynamic resistance increases the faster you go, with big gains starting to pile up above 55 MPH. After that, each extra mile per hour of speed adds more resistance than the last. In the end, the best thing most people can do is slow down. Just be careful to not go too slow, because chances for an accident actually increase faster for slow drivers than fast drivers. If you can’t stay close to the flow of traffic, pick a different road where drivers go slower.

Rolling resistance is mostly related electricity online games to your tires. Higher inflation (within safe limits) reduces rolling resistance. Also, some tires are made from special low resistance compounds that help the car use less energy going down the road. If your car came with those tires, be sure to buy the same tires again or tires with less resistance. If your car doesn’t have low resistance tires, be sure to get some the next time you need tires.

Choosing your route when driving makes a big difference. For long drives, choosing a lower speed road instead of the faster interstates can save fuel, but only if there aren’t frequent stops. For city driving, think ahead about which places you want to go. Try to put the destinations in one big loop instead of bouncing around town like a pinball and racking up more miles. Start with the furthest destination first so that your car’s engine gets a chance to warm up and stay warm during all of the remaining stops.

Another thing to consider is parking. Avoid parking with the front in and having to back out later. When leaving a place, the engine will be at its coldest, so it’s best to spend as little time as possible sitting still or slowly backing out then. You might also be able to avoid backing in by finding a “pull through” space in a parking lot where you can pull in and leave the car’s nose facing out.

Also, consider which vehicle you’re using for the job. If you have a Toyota electricity and circuits class 6 pdf Prius and an F250 4×4, there are situations that would be best suited to each vehicle. If you’re getting groceries, take the Prius. If you need to pick up lumber at the home improvement store or need to haul a big camping trailer, take the F250. If you’re driving alone to work, take the Prius. This concept is known as “right sizing.”

There’s the old saw: “When you’re holding a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.” You may also want to ask yourself whether a car is the right choice at all for some trips. Is there environmentally friendly mass transit that can suit your needs? Or does the local fleet of big diesel buses never have more than 2 or 3 passengers, and thus is just adding to the pollution problem? Is the destination within walking distance? Biking distance? Might an electric scooter or e-bike do the job for this? Be sure to ask all those questions and make the decision that best fits your needs without wastefulness. Final Thoughts Resources

Before I wrap up, I want to give one word of warning. Be sure to not let saving gas lead to stupidity. When going down the road, there’s only so much you can pay attention to at once. Don’t let saving gas distract you from driving safely. If you feel overwhelmed or fatigued when focusing on saving fuel, take a mental break or even a break from driving. Be sure to watch for your limitations and don’t spend time beyond them.