Durafix reviews aluminum welding testimonials gas vs electric heat


So my transom was cracking at the top, and trying to "pull" out from the weight of the motor. Especially when trailered, while hitting bumps in the road, and under the initial thrust of taking off while at the lake. I didn’t know if I could find an aluminum welder in my area, so I looked on the web for products. I found a great one, that actually works. Its called DuraFix, do a google search, and you will get to their page… Al L.

No catch…. S**t works good!!! And I see the price has come down quite a bit from when it was introduced a few years ago. What you do need to be aware of is that, like anything else, it’s an art being able to flow molten metal and get professional looking results like they show you in the video… Are you a picasso or a forest gump??? … DARRYL

I have some I bought years ago. k gas constant Believe it or not it does work!! You do have to get used to it before you get his type of welds. I mounted a universal turn signal on a tube welded to a plate. Before mounting in the car I tried to break it loose. Bent the crap out of it and the welds never cracked. Oh, yes it was aluminum. Still in the car… LONING

He repaired a hurricane hinge he accidentally cut in the wrong place. Using a propane torch and a special aluminum rod called Dura Fix durafix.com he was able to heat then fill the accidental cut in the hurricane hinge with molten metal to repair (salvage) the hurricane hinge. The Durafix rod melts at a much lower temperature than aluminum does… Esteban

One of the first and hardest used jobs was repairing a broken door handle on an old farm truck. gas nozzle stuck in car This is a cheapy truck with no armrests,so you yank on the handle to close the door,that is how the handle was originally broken. I Vee’d out the parts and used my little SS toothbrush,propane torch and the rods to put it back together. It’s still together after 10 years of the same kind of use that broke it originally… Jon H

I have used the durafix rod for a few projects. gas vs electric oven cost It isn’t too hard to work with, but it requires some thought. It is a lot like brazing and soldering where you have to "weld" the entire joint at one time, you can reheat and add to the puddle, but you have to be careful you don’t let it all flow out. It does has a high surface tension, so it will make a decent puddle before it will flow. You will need heat the pieces you are welding to the same temp., it will not bond correctly if they are not. It will produce a nice joint that can be sanded or ground to match. The alu you are welding needs clean, you can scuff it up with a scotchbrite pad. Get a stainless wire brush with a wooden handle, trust me I tried the plastic one, it doesn’t last long… You will have to clamp the pieces firmly together. Other than that it just takes some time to get used to how the rod material works, and how to make do what you want. wd gaster theory The weld material is harder than the alu you will be welding, but if you are careful it won’t plug up files or grinding stones like aluminum does…. JMZ six

The very first stage was to make the basic frame of the case, which included the front,floor, back, and motherboard tray.Each section was cut using a jigsaw then filed down to the precise measurement I required, often accurate to half a mm or less. In order to stop the jigsaw dragging on the comparatively soft aluminium I stuck a piece of cardboard onto the bottom of the jigsaw which makes it glide with ease across the aluminium. Each section was then taped together to double check that all the dimensions were perfect. Then once the panels had been given a brushed effect using Wet & Dry, all the panels were brazed together with a large propane torch and Durafix aluminium brazing rods to form a rigid frame……. Read More…. A. Leather

Just a quick note to thank you.i repaired a very old and thin, aluminum evaporator coil in an old meat case. A replacement coil would have been $ 4500.00 . This was an old case with a very limited remaining life expectancy. I had tried a couple of common aluminum patches unsuccessfully, and after talking with you i decided to give it a shot. c gastronomie plateaux repas I must admit I was a bit skeptical, but my option was a very expensive coil for such an old case, plus a three week wait for manufacturing.

It worked pretty easily. A pair of small pinholes were quickly repaired and a much larger rub through hole, the real culprit, was just as easily repaired. I pressure tested at 125 psi. the max pressure rating when the coil was new. The repairs held for 12 hrs solidly so I re-installed and and returned It to service. The repairs have held for four years now, with zero leakage. I have repaired two more coils with Durafix since. None have leaked at the repair. The temperature variations that these coils must withstand, -30 to +130 degrees Fahrenheit, tax even the original factory connections.

Brush the area with a SS brush [not steel or brass] to remove as much oxide as possible. Then you displace the oxide with the Durafix rod. You don’t hold the rod in the flame. You poke at the work with the rod, dislodging a little oxide each time. Some times the work is hot enough for the oxide to dislodge. great. Sometimes the work is hotter, and the stroke is just right, and the oxide is dislodged and immediately and replaced by filler alloy, but only on the spot contacted. Sometimes the work is too hot, and you poke the rod at it, and it just collapses.

To repair the damage, I used DuraFix aluminium brazing rods. To use these, you first clean the part with a stainless steel wire brush, to remove the surface oxide layer. Then you heat the part with a butane or MAPP torch until the brazing rod melts when in contact with the part. You then continue to heat the part and build up the required amount of "filler" aluminium….. electricity distribution costs A. Harris

I am sure several of you have seen the guys at the boat show welding aluminum with a durafix rod and a propane torch and wondered if this stuff could be handy for "in the field" and remote repairs fir example where there is no tig. Durafix effectively fills a niche market by offering yet another option, other than the metalmend, marinetex, 2 part-epoxy type options, for DIY in the field repair capability with easily trans[portable components, bring only the rod, torch, ss brush, file or grinder, sandpaper, safety goggles etc. To the job versus bringing the job to a tig (or mig) and then paying a weldor or even worse yet paying a weldor to bring a portable mig or tig to your job or attempting an epoxy type repair…. Captain King

I started out using HTS-2000 and it worked as long as you Only heat what you are building and let it flow to weld it together. I have now switched to Durafix, 1/2 the price of hts 2000 and the same results for a pound which lasts a long time. Great for building bridges from stock that you can get at Loews or H D. It took 4 rods to build a 6 foot arch bridge. What Greg showed also works the same but to get the same amount to do a large job costs almost 10x the price…. Jack

Durafix is some good stuff for aluminum. I had some aluminum threads that were toast in a housing. Filled the hole with durafix, let cool, then retapped. ogasco abu dhabi I was a little hesitant at first but it worked like a charm and like others, I did not have the means to weld conventionally. It should work well especially if there is no pressure involved. Mine was on a pressure washer pump and it still holds up to this day…