Durostar 4400 watt quiet portable electric start rv gas power generator ds4400e 811640013561 ebay electricity worksheets ks1


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purchased this generator to keep as a spare at my camp but it is not going to work. I have a travel trailer that is 110V 20Amp service. so plugged in generator to unit and turned the AC on.. the generator almost died out then came back to life… the ac unit tripped the compressor stall circuit that auto resets. one the fan was running the compressor came back on line and with a lot of strain the generator ran the ac unit. So the unit is running and the wife turns on the television and pow,, the breaker trips on the generator.. Being an electrical contractor and engineer I used a amp probe to test the amp draw on the ac and it was only running at 7.6 amps. given the formula amps x volts= watts that comes out to roughly 836 watts and the tv is roughly 120 watts and another 500 for the inverter in trailer total of 1456 watts at 110V and generator craps out. Advertised to be 3500 running and 4400 surge… well I’m here to say that’s BS. I’m sure this generator is very comparable to similar units at harbor freight that would be good enough to run your refrigerator and a couple of lights in an emergency, so nothing in excess of 1800 watts continuous. other than the weak power output that does not match the advertised rating the generator is nice, started right up with the electric start and is reasonably quite. For the price I paid for it I got exactly what I paid for as usual. I don’t know why Chinese equipment manufacturers are allowed to put such blatantly over hyped specifications on items. I’m sure that given the right set of circumstance the generator may in fact run 3500 watts of power but would have to be incrementally loaded a little at a time and for a very short duration.

It fired fight up and does what it’s supposed to. Though 3500 watts won’t operate your central air or many other 220 appliances, I tapped it into my breaker box to operate all the essential 110 volt stuff during brief but fairly regular power outages. This covers the fridge, household lighting without worrying how many you have on, a couple large TV’s and computers. This allows for pretty normal living for about half a day on a single tank of gas.

The power is clean enough for computers and TV’s, but doesn’t seem to agree with the Uninterruptable Power Supplies (UPS) that people often use with computers to keep power failures from turning them off before proper shutdown procedure can be applied. I’ve only tested the generator for a few minutes and the problem might be on my end, however. It’s possible that the UPS needs to be bypassed when using the generator, or that a power conditioner should be inserted between the generator and house wiring. At any rate, this generator delivers well within expectations, maybe even a little better.

Incidentally, tapping a generator into your house wiring is VERY MUCH RECOMMENDED AGAINST. If you decide to do it anyway, there are two things that absolutely, positively MUST be done: First and most important: YOU MUST, MUST, MUST ALWAYS TURN YOUR MAIN BREAKER OFF BEFORE STARTING THE GENERATOR – otherwise you’re energizing a line that is assumed still dead and safe by local utility workers. Remember, transformers work both ways – and left unchecked, your 220 volt generator output can VERY easily rise to 300,000 volts or even more as it runs backwards through the step-downs on the poles, making them step-ups. And even though the current goes down as the voltage goes up, the power still remains at 3500 watts – the amps and volts are just sliced up differently to keep the power constant – Ohm’s Law doesn’t allow otherwise.

Second, there MUST be a dedicated disconnect for the generator, to keep it offline when the house electricity is working – you don’t want to feed 100 amps or more INTO a generator! It is NECESSARY to make it impossible to have both the generator and your main breaker turned on at the same time – there are many ways to do this, and you probably shouldn’t proceed with the project if you can’t figure out a way to do this on your own. To use such a Jerry-rigged system safely, you need to know every single element of it inside and out or you run the risk of starting fires or blowing up your brand new generator. I worked in HVAC for 25 years, a line of work that gives you plenty of "breaker panel time" and requires the installer to determine proper wire size (#10 is good for the 30 amps this generator can deliver) as well as how to safely combine existing circuits in old, crowded panels to make room for two more breakers (three if I was replacing a boiler system with a gas furnace, or sometimes five if replacing a boiler system with electric heat. I considered myself capable if not officially qualified, but of course the electrical inspector’s opinion might differ.

Thirdly, you should only consider tapping a generator into your house wiring if you have absolute 100% confidence in your electrical knowledge and skills, as well as a thorough grasp of grounding (including why ground is different from neutral, even though they are generally at the same potential and read continuity to each other with an ohmmeter). At this power level, not knowing exactly what you’re doing can easily kill you AND other innocent people.