Embossing powder made at home… – observations gas number


Update 4 August 2015: There is now a composite image showing the extracted polymer ( in these examples the polymer came from a floor finish from Holloway, sold at Walmart) with pigment inks, and color experiments with the colorless Versamark ink after the second video. This photo and effort is provided by Kristina Roberts, who has shared her work with our community. Thanks, Kris! Please check the comments for Kris’s work with this alternative polymer.

Thermography is frequently considered to be raised printing typically used for business cards, wedding invitations, and other decorative printed material. The process provides a third dimension of height. electricity png The procedure is essentially the use of a slow drying ink, a thermoplastic polymer, and a source of heat. The wet ink receives the powdered resin and is heated until the polymer flows and adds the dimensional effect and becomes solid again. Raised print is also useful in the production of Braille in place of punched indents. Although a fairly mature industry with its beginnings in the early 20th century with copal or varnish resins, there are new uses being discovered. For example, the rubber stamp process has been adopted by crafters and has become a billion dollar business. It has become an “at home” art form with cards, scrapbooks, and new areas of artistic expression. The companies in this business now sell several kinds of ink, embossing, (thermoplastic) powders in many colors, and other peripherals to make the hobby easier and more versatile.

I became interested in the polymers used in the thermographic process but found very little in the literature and patents. There is an abundance of information on the equipment used but most of the embossing powders are proprietary and even the MSDS literature was of little help. I was fairly sure that someone had made some of these embossing resins at home but a search turned up no process. Additionally, after reading several crafting blogs it seems as though there was a desire to find such a method that was easy to do at home and used readily available materials. After many failures and frustrations I have been able to extract a clear embossing powder from a common floor finish. Since this in an open source website I welcome comments and community additions and suggestions to improve and refine the process. electricity voltage in paris Here is the recipe and the two products required for the extraction of clear embossing powder:

Procedure : Add 2 parts of cool water to one part floor finish in a disposable container and not one used for food. With stirring, add vinegar slowly until the polymer becomes thick and very easy to see. Stop adding vinegar at this point. Pour polymer into a sieve or funnel/coffee filter and drain. Return the drained polymer into the original container and add water as a rinse. Drain and transfer to paper towels, spread material and allow to air dry. Reduce particle size by placing dry polymer into a sandwich bag or Cling wrap and apply pressure to make a powder. If a finer powder is required, pass the particles through a dryer sheet as shown in the video.

How it works : The acrylic floor finish is a stable emulsion and is stable due to the fact that the emulsion is kept at a pH of greater than 9. 5 gas laws Remember that a pH of 7 is neutral. When we add vinegar that has between 3 and 9% acetic acid, the pH of the emulsion goes down and the polymer precipitates out. chapter 7 electricity note taking worksheet The variability of the acetic acid content is the reason that there is no fixed ratio stipulated.

There are other alternatives to consider but they all have limitations. Laser toner is useful but there is no colorless toner and the colors are very limited. Powder coating for metals is an option but very expensive and not generally available in small amounts. So, this project is an alternative material to the commercial products and it is a lot of fun to make your own!

Another suggestion for coloring is dry pigment powder. I’ve found this at tkbtrading.com in many colors, and you can buy small amounts that would actually give you a lot of color. I recently bought some mica powders from them and the red I bought actually was just a pigment powder, no mica. Disappointing for my intended purposes, but it was a definite red. If the pigment powders work, they can be bought in larger sizes. They are initially sold for home made makeup, such as lipsticks, eye shadows, blush, etc. and the website includes recipes and containers. The pigment powders come in small ziplock bags.

One last idea for coloring your embossing powders is gel pens. I’ve seen them used to color liquid polymer clay, and they worked better than the sharpie pens – just a drop or two from the ink barrel (simply pulling them apart gave access to the ink) was enough and the pens could still be used after putting them back together. The ink appeared to be transparent or translucent, it was difficult to tell on the video.

I haven’t tried making my own embossing powder, but I’ve used alcohol ink to color purchased UTEE powder. I put some powder in a small lidded container, added a few drops of ink, put the top on securely and shook the heck out of the container until the color was evenly disbursed. If you leave the container open for a short time, the extra alcohol dissipates, leaving dry powder. I have also used Pearl Ex and Perfect Pearls powders to color UTEE by a similar method. grade 9 electricity Works great and you can adjust the depth of color by adding more or less ink or Pearl Ex. I have no idea if either method would work with your homemade powder.

I have a large stock of purchased powders. gas upper back pain Everything from UTEE to glittery powders to Opals. I have been using them for a couple of years to coat paper beads. But for the last few months, I’ve been using the UTEE almost exclusively, and coloring it by dropping alcohol ink on the melted UTEE as I rotate and spin the beads on long picks to keep the UTEE from dripping off until it cools. Not sure I want to add the extra step of making my own powder though.

I loved your video! I live over an hour away from the nearest craft store and I did not want to take the time to drive there. I googled and found your video. I actually had all of the components to make the powder, but I started to think, Minwax Polycrylic would surely have a higher polymer content, and I had some high gloss Polycrylic laying around, so I tried it! I followed all other instructions. I did not want to use my only strainer, so I took a piece of chiffon left over from another project. I put it over a bowel, clothes pinned it to the sides of bowel and poured the mixture over it, then gathered up the sides, removing the pins as I went and twisted and squeezed the liquid out (just like making jelly). After this was done the powder was already mostly dry. electricity jokes riddles I laid the chiffon over some paper towels then spread the little clumps out, because I was anxious to try it out I used a plastic fork to further break it down into very small pieces. I let it finish drying, then tried it out. I works wonderfully, and was fun to make! It was a great project to talk to my children about chemical reactions.

I really enjoyed your videos. Basically my background is an avid stamper /card maker . I ended up at your web site because I ended up being able to combine some basic colored pigment powders (metallic/pearlesent/Matt even iredesent blues purples reds and such)with clear embossing powder to see if I can make my own colored embossing powders I ordered from Ali express (China ) for real cheap. Advertised as pigments that are used in the automobile to cosmetic companies. So I have a couple dozen 100g bags of different colors as well with pearlized and iredesent qualities .

Honestly I was trying to find out how I can start my own business in selling my colored embossing powders as I googled this , I came to your web site. Anyhow , I will certainly recommend combining a pigment powder with the embossing powder you have achieved. As soon as I my process my embossing powder referring to your technique I will then combine a few of my pigment powders to see what characteristics come about if combined . I can then compare the commercial embossing powder I mixed with these pigments which I have been mixing in the past few days. I get pretty good results that are opaque. At least with the colors I have tried so far.