Ev home charging typically draws less than half the power of an electric furnace npower gas price reduction


If you are looking to purchase an electric vehicle, and are considering what power level to install in your home today – it would be good to have 7.7 kW (32 A @ 240 VAC) or more system on hand, even if your current plug-in choice can take all that juice (you might be able to utilize it in the future). In Europe however, it’s a smart idea to have 3-phase installation, good for 11 kW or 22 kW to be ZOE-proof, or at least future-proof (as currently most models are still equipped with single-phase chargers).

Many first-generation plug-in vehicles have onboard chargers limited to 3,600 watts, similar to the power draw for a typical home air conditioning system, while newer electric vehicles have increased onboard charging rates. Some owners use only a standard wd gaster battle 120-volt household outlet (level 1 charging) which has a very slow charge rate and low power draw compared to the level 2 charging. There are some electric vehicles, such as those produced by Tesla, that allow for even greater home charging speeds and higher power draws similar to an electric furnace. While an electric vehicle can draw a considerable amount of electricity when charging, the overall fuel cost for an electric vehicle is lower than a comparable gasoline vehicle.

Apparently everyone on this message board lives in warm climates which is obvious or they’d understand the importance of the waste heat produced by the engine in a PHEV during extreme cold. But I digress. Here’s some info for those of you who aren’t familiar with it. 1. Heat pumps are effectively useless in this part of the country. The main part of the cold winters leaves them effectively useless. They simply can’t pull heat out of sub zero air. 2. Electric head is extremely hp gas common. Many small towns don’t have the luxury of natural gas or those homes were built before nat gas was cost effective compared to say propane or electric heat. I currently heat my house with propane. Beats the tar out of fuel oil (I made a funny) and since no nat gas available my other choice is electric heat. But using electric heat is sub-optimal for the environment as compared to using nat gas or propane. Your nat gas furnace (if you are able to get one) is way more efficient than any power plant…even the nat gas ones. That’s because you lose 40% approx of the electricity during transmission (I’ve seen various estimates) driving … Read more »

I just thought I’d point out some of the ignorance one this site from commenters. So far we have ignorant comments such as: 1. Electric heat? unpossible! 2. All you need is a heat pump. That’s like 1000% efficient. Uh huh. 3. Nobody lives in those places anyway. This isn’t Siberia. But these same people tend to whine and whine and whine and complain that 1. NO WAY would anyone EVER buy a Nissan until they have thermal management! To do so is just stupid! I mean it gets like 140 in the summer where I live. 2. Electric cars are 100% efficient. Why don’t you drive one? There’s no math anywhere on the globe that says it’s not best to drive BEV. The internet told me so. I don’t need thermodynamics, physics, or electrical engineering to tell me otherwise. 3. Pffftt….rooftop solar is DEFINITELY the way to go and Waaaayyyy cheaper and more efficient. All of those are abjectly false for a very large chunk of the United States not to mention other habitable places such as Europe. 1. Here’s a clue. Not everyone lives in the desert. In fact a very large chunk of people in the US … Read more »

@Tom: Interesting post with lots of good info, thanks! I do have one quibble with this part of your post: “Your nat gas furnace (if you are able to get one) is way more efficient than any power plant…even the nat gas ones. That’s because you lose 40% approx of the electricity during transmission (I’ve seen various estimates) driving down the total loop efficiency to 60 % or so compared to greater than 90% for a nat gas furnace.” It’s not the actual transmission of the gas city indiana electricity which drops the efficiency by 40%. Transmission losses over power lines average only about 7%, at least in the mainland USA. I think what you’re referring to is the efficiency lost in burning natural gas at the power plant, which at best (for a combined cycle plant) is about 60% efficient, as you said. I’m not sure there’s much point in comparing electric heat efficiency to the efficiency of using natural gas or other fuels, as what an electric furnace does is convert all the energy to heat. In heat engines (for example, in a gasmobile’s engine) or electric motors that would count as 0% efficiency, since all the energy is lost to … Read more »

Thank you! I twitch every time I see someone claiming that heat pumps are “over 100% efficient”. Ummmm… no. Nothing can possibly be more than 100% energy efficient, by definition. What heat grade 9 electricity quiz pumps do is move existing heat around, and in the process of moving that heat can (and usually do) use less energy than the energy contained in the heat that is moved. Now, I have read enough to know that people who sell and install heat pumps do blithely talk about them being “more than 100% efficient”, but all they’re doing is demonstrating their lack of understanding of thermodynamics. BTW there is one type of heat pump system which actually is adequate even in regions where it gets really cold in the winter: Ground source heat pump systems, also misleadingly labeled “geothermal heat pump” systems. They use loops of pipes buried deep underground, “ground loops”, buried deep enough that the ground temperature is stable year-round. However, that kind of system is a lot more expensive than a normal home heat pump HVAC system. But those building a new home should really look into that. According to the gas definition physics Wikipedia article: “Setup costs are higher than for conventional systems, but … Read more »

Good article for perspective, and for the realistic wiring demands for an electric car. Most of our people are less than 100 miles away, during a short visit, I ask them if they have a wall plug close by for me, I describe the load as a 1500 trickle charger, equivalent to a smaller plug-in heater. They have a couple of DCFC’s close by, I charge to 85%, drive a couple of miles to my destination and it does the slow finish to 100% without me having to wait for it. Our house went all electric, our biggest demand does come from our car, but only because we modernized all of our appliances and insulated our home. With our solar panels dashboard it describes exactly our energy use, our mini-split heat pump has never drawn more than 1700 watts in the coldest of winters to heat a 2,000 sq ft home. Overall, how much power used to charge a car depends on where you went with it, our 40 mile commute ended, we now really only need to charge once or twice a week, we’re lucky to have a fast charger installation finishing up close by our grocery store, it … Read more »

I live in Norway, and the main (and in reality only) source of heat is electric. I have a heatpump unit that contains two water tanks. One for tap water, and the other for floor heating. The unit contains a fan unit for the ventilation system, that is also where the heat pump unit is located. It takes hot air, that is on its way out of the building, and “recycle” the heat. If the air going out to the heat pump unit is 25 degrees C, it is 4-7 degrees C when the heat pump has done its job. That heat in converted to hot water in the two tanks. The two tanks also include a regular electric heating element, but that has not been used ever. No need, since the unit works so well. I also chose to have some radiators in the house, that is connected to the same system. If you choose you can connect solar heating (from the roof) to this system. If you have a wood or pellets over with a water heating la gastritis unit – that can also be connected to the system. My system is not very advanced, and I can regulate how … Read more »