Ezgo rxv won’t release brake after danaher to curtis conversion – page 2 gas tax in new jersey

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I went ahead and bought a switch when I bought the encoder. The new switch shows lass than an ohm resistance when closed. Problem is the two switches don’t have the same length of a button. The new switch, even though it bolts in exactly the same never gets enough pedal movement to close.

So I guess I’m back to this twist test question. The cart will jerk when the key is turned on. The brake lights turn on. Cart will move in tow mode. It never responds to the throttle. Behavior is same with both Curtis controllers. Verified brake wiring & speed sensor wiring.

There are two different switch part numbers. E-Z-GO sells the wrong one 50% of the time or more. They changed pedal assembly designs, and during that transition, they were still using the older pedal assembly on some RXVs and the new ones on some, until they ran out of inventory of the old ones. In my earlier posts about motor brake issues, I think I gave both part numbers, and the years in which the factory started switching over. One switch has a bare plunger and the other has a flexible rubber cover. The brake switch opens connection to the motor brake power at about 60% of pedal travel, which is where the brake encoder reads about 100%.

The cart should not jerk when the key is turned on. It is failing brake twist test. Take a look under the plastic cover that the run/tow switch is mounted to. You are looking for connectors #1, #2, #3, and #4. Make sure that #1 is plugged into #2, and #3 is plugged into #4. If #1 is plugged into #3, and #2 is plugged into #4, swap them around. Your motor brake is either powered on when it is not supposed to be, or it is bad. If it is not those plugs, you have a wiring problem or a motor brake that is not locking up when it should. The brake light being on is an indication from the controller that the motor brake is failing test. The diagnostic handset is limited in usefulness sometimes. Go into stored codes and select Clear Codes. That might help with telling the difference between older stored codes that are not repeating and newly generated stored codes. There is a permanent stored code table in the controller, with when they occured. That one cannot be cleared with a handset.

I rewired the whole cart after playing with the run plug. The harness I received from ezgo was for the Danaher controller, so I respliced the correct white wire and the orange speed sensor wire. I checked my splices between the motor and the controller with my ohm meter. They are reading .1 ohms of resistance.

I re-ran the voltage and ohm tests at the motor brake, the pack voltage, Solenoid, throttle and brake. The only thing I found was about 7 ohms resistance in brake switch. I replaced the switch. The new switch was showing an ohm of resistance. That did eliminate the HDP/Sequencing error. The controller keeps the brake lights on and the brake set. However the throttle will now engage and the cart will move very slowly. It’s obvious the brake is not releasing completely. can flip the cart into tow mode and I can push it around my driveway.

2) I’ve got the ezgo voltage converter installed in this cart and the lights, stereo, USB plug all run off of 12 volts from this converter. I thought I saw some posts about a cart having issues like this when the converter/reducer was installed, but now I can’t find those posts. Was that a figment of my imagination?

One final note. The 350 Amp controller I originally miswired. When I put it back in the cart, it would release the brake, but no throttle. I could role the cart around in run mode, and press the brake pedal until the brake switch opened and it would set the brake.