Fabulously finished on and off the wall thermal electricity how it works

Last post I shared different ways I like to use thicker than paint products. A favorite of mine is our Texture Plaster, a thick medium like smooth peanut butter, that we offered in BLACK and NEUTRAL . Earlier this month we added two new colors GREY GOOSE and BROWN BEAR–

I applied the Greygoose Plaster on the Uncle Sam and Brown Bear Plaster on the Dollar Bill. When I apply thicker dimensional products over a stencil, I typically use a lightweight plastic card – used gift cards work great – butter up one edge, and beginning at one side of the stencil glide your buttered edge over the pattern, keep your scraper more parallel to surface so your glide is soft, not choppy and cutting –

Scoop more plaster on the card edge and continue where you left off. Avoid going back and forth over the pattern as this most often causes the product to bleed underneath resulting in messy edges. I use my free hand to hold the stencil in place , stencil adhesive and tape are culprits for damaging your newer painted surface underneath.

Its your preference how thick or thin you want to apply your plaster, some areas can be thicker, some thinner. Leave the excess plaster ON the stencil surface, don’t try to scrape it off at this point, and once your whole design is covered grab both sides of the stencil and lift directly up

Lay the stencil on a flat surface – here I used the cardboard but my favorite is a sheet of plastic or a counter that can be cleaned. Using your same scraper, scrape harder and firmer now, across the design to retrieve the excess plaster. Save in your container for to reuse again. If you wait too long to clean it will be much harder to clean the stencil, and your product will get a little clumpy –

If you have any noticeable areas of bleed/product seep you can try to clean it up a bit – the end of a pencil (eraser) works good, as do mini flat screwdrivers, flat toothpicks etc – If I am applying thick products onto mirror/glass I typically let the design dry, then clean messy parts using a single razor blade. If my design is going to be embedded between paint layers then it isn’t as important to have it perfect, but I will remove really bad slops –

Wait until your design is completely dry before moving on. You can attempt to dry with forced heat, but realize you may cause the product to crack. As you can see in picture below, the design element pointing right was pretty thick, and isn’t completely dried on the inside. I can tell by pushing on it – if its dry it wont move

also note you could brush your color over the design randomly, leaving some of the design showing – its all personal preference, and I encourage you to play and create many samples, so you can see what works (you like!) and what doesn’t (yuk) –

Once the surface is dry you can reveal your design. If you hate sanding you can grab a damp rag and slowly wipe back your finish until you like what you see. If you use the damp rag method make sure your finish is good and dry, otherwise the paint can wipe off too easily

My preferred method is sand paper (or a mouse sander if your project is big) anywhere from 150-220 grit. I typically start with 180 grit, down to 150 if its not releasing fast enough 220 if I have a real sheer paint layer over top. IF these still aren’t working for you, go as low as 100 but sand slowly, back and forth

Besides revealing shadows of color underneath, sanding the natural chalk/clay of APC paint gives the finish a super soft feel. When Im satisfied, I’ll take a damp rag and wipe over my finish, to see my result and wipe more in areas that still need to pop –

I prefer the Caromal Textured Basecoats for stenciling on mirrors. Yes, you could use other textures- but I stick to what I trust – Caromal’s thick paint line is meant to stick to anything, I know it stays put on a mirror, even with mild cleaning upkeep. When I’ve tried our thicker plasters ( Texture Plaster, Texture Stone) on a mirror surface, I find they aren’t AS strong as Caromal’s Texture Paint on an unsealed surface –

I use common sense – if it is a surface to be used – like the old glass table that served as the kids coloring table – then I go with Caromal Textured Basecoats. If its a less used surface like wall art, furniture, etc I’d be open to ALL thicker paints we carry – Texture Plasters, Texture Stone, Texture Metallic Plasters and Stone ….

My favorite way to stencil with texture is on furniture. On the piece below, I used our American Paint Company all natural chalk and clay paints – a previous limited edition color yellow as the base layer, then a raised stencil using our Texture Plaster Neutral, over top (when dry) the popular APC color Shoreline, sanded back(when dry) to reveal the pretty detail –

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