Ford 8n tractor restoration and repairs gas jet size chart

Everyone works at a different pace, and every project has different challenges, so there is no way to estimate how long it might take to do a job like this. It really depends on your schedule, mission creep, and how perfect you want the final result to be. Mission creep is difficult to control. Repair work nearly always uncovers additional work needed. I try to make a detailed list of repairs, then try to stick fairly close to that list. Preparation for painting is one area I simply do not have enough patience. The final finish appearance is directly linked to how well the prep work is done. I tend to get in a hurry and cut corners here, so my paint jobs often look a bit rough. You may have heard this called a 20:20 paint job, "It looks great at 20 miles an hour or from 20-feet away". As far as I am concerned, this is an acceptable look for a working tractor. A perfect finish is not nearly as important to me as getting something on there to prevent rust, and a perfect finish will not stay perfect for long on a working tractor.

Working outside has a weather penalty, but one huge advantage is it cuts way down on the fumes I have to breathe. One seemingly unavoidable issue with painting outside is BUGS! More than a few small varmints were entombed in the paint on this one!

First, start draining the fluids into appropriate containers for recycle or proper disposal. The hydraulic/gear lube sump has three drain plugs. It usually works best to start with the relatively small 3/4" pipe plug at the bottom of the differential. This limits the flow to a managable amount. This sump holds 5-gallons so you will need to stop and empty your drain pan if it won’t hold 5-gallons. The fuel drains easy, just remove the fuel line, put a short piece of tubing on the end of the fuel line, set a container at the end of the tubing, and open the fuel valve on the bottom of the tank.

While the fluids are draining, start taking lots of pictures. It’s a good idea to take pictures as you take things apart because it could be months before you get around to putting it back together. My memory was never that good. I use various sizes of clear plastic jugs to put nuts, bolts, small parts, and brackets in as they come off. That way I know I have them all. But sometimes it can be a little hard to figure out what went where. Photos of things like the throttle linkage can save you a lot of head scratching later. A few labels on parts are not a bad idea either (hint-hint).

Once you have your first set of "BEFORE" photos, start removing things like bumper, grill, headlights, and battery. It is actually much easier to wait until after you have the hood off to remove the headlights, but you will have to disconnect the wiring before you can remove the hood.

I guessed it would take about two quarts of each color and this worked out almost perfect. For my paint gun I thinned the paint about 5% with mineral spirits. I did not add any hardener or other ingredients. That is the stuff that can be really bad to breathe so I skipped it. I shot the first coat at about 40-psi, with the pattern as tight as it would go and a little on the light side to keep me from getting too much paint in the first coat. I was not concerned about coverage, just wanted to get a good tack-coat down.

My original plan was to apply the second coat within 24-hours. But the rains set in for three days, so I had to leave it covered with a tarp. By the time the weather dried out the first coat was completly cured so I applied a second light coat. I let that get nearly dry and then opened up the pattern a bit and increased the volume of paint for a third pass. By now I was getting a little more comfortable with my spray gun and had a better idea how much paint I could apply without runs, drips, or sags. Small parts like the battery tray, dash, and air filter are easier to paint off the tractor. I installed a new rubber grommet for the steering column before reinstalling the dash panel.

The seat that came off this 52-8N is an aftermarket seat with a shock absorber and a big coil spring. All the rubber bushings and hardware were completly shot. I scrounged some universal sway bar end link kits at the local auto parts store. The long bolt and rubber bushings in the kit were perfect to replace the rotten parts on my seat.

After putting this seat back together, it is noticably more comfortable than the original seat. If I was planning to spend many hours in the seat at a time, it would be a very welcome accessory. But my seat-time is usually measured in minutes, not hours, and I prefer the look and simplicity of the original flip-up seat.

The PTO shaft was leaking badly. This is the original 1-1/8" shaft but it was showing very little wear and the bearings seemed nice and tight, so I just put a new seal and gasket on it. This would have been a good time to get a new 1-3/8" shaft but everything I have either connects directly to the 1-1/8" shaft or uses an adapter. I have also heard that the original shafts were made out of better steel than many of the new replacement shafts.

A quick inspection of brakes revealed a nearly new set of shoes but they needed a thorough cleaning and adjustment. The hub on one side was loose which could ruin the hub and axle if left loose. I put my big breaker bar on it and got the nut torqued back down to 400-450 foot-pounds. Hopefully, that fixed it but I will have to keep an eye on it.