Gas absorption refrigerator mods to improve performance – class b forums 7 cases movie


I am putting this writeup here as this forum has the best technical feedback from members of any of the Class B forums I am involved with. electricity experiments elementary school I will also provide links to this post on the other forums to help those having gas absorption refrigerator problems. Some of my problems are particular to the Roadtrek 210P, and others are more general.

The Dometic RM2554 refrigerator in my 2006 Roadtrek 210P had poor performance in hot weather with fridge temperatures into the mid or upper 40’s in hot weather. The freezer was good at near 0-degrees. The fridge worked a little better on gas than electric. So I started searching the internet and read the Dometic installation and service manuals to try to figure out if the refrigerator had failed or if there was a fixable problem. I will describe the steps that have made the fridge performance acceptable, though it does struggle sometimes in hot weather with temperatures going up to about 40-41 degrees. The refrigerator will get to the mid-30s in more moderate temperatures below about 85 degrees.

The Dometic installation and service manuals showed that the vent area behind the fridge needs to be configured properly to get adequate venting. Roadtrek did not install the proper vent cavity setup. z gas el salvador numero de telefono I do not know if Roadtrek has fixed the vent setup on the newer models. I installed an inner wall to eliminate the large gap between the van sidewall and the fridge coil system. chapter 7 electricity test I also put some foam insulation between the Van wall and this new inner wall to reduce solar heating of the outside wall from heating the vent cavity. The Dometic manual also says you can use a wall baffle but I thought the inner wall mod would work better. I also made an upper baffle as shown in the Dometic installation manual. I installed another fan as shown in the manual. npower gas price reduction The performance improved somewhat.

APRV has some good information regarding problems with sidevent setups like our Roadtrek’s. I bought the APRV control unit and one of their fans. The APRV control unit protects the refrigerator from overheating caused by off-level operation, and also can control a vent fan. I installed the fan in the upper vent to pull air through the vent cavity.

Another option is to have the cooling unit replaced. I have talked to Leon Herschberger at National RV Refrigeration in Indiana. He was very knowledgeable on the RV refrigerators and has rebuilt cooling units that sound like they are better than the Dometic original unit. harry mileaf electricity 1 7 pdf If I were going to have my unit repaired I would strongly consider driving to his location.

Here’s the text & pics from my post on Declaring war on Interstate summer heat gain – Page 18 – Airstream Forums (see post #244). I didn’t have an exterior vent outlet, so my goal was to just keep the cavity behind the compressor fridge at coach temperature by venting heat back into the living area and drawing in air that is generally about 20 degrees cooler (at least while the coach is occupied).

I bought one of these 16/cfm fans…?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a length of 1-1/4" ID flexible hose and wired it to a lighted wall switch I added. I routed the hose behind the wardrobe and out the panel above the rear tv using this 1-1/2" OD round vent cover…?ie=UTF8&psc=1. origin electricity faults The fan pushes a good amount of air, but of course, my mod changed the original ventilation path (if you can even call it that) I’m drilling a couple of 3-1/8" holes below the fridge in the cover to the Inverter/Fuses/Breakers/Battery Cut-Off and am considering closing off the microwave grill in an effort to pull air into the bottom and out the top. But probably not until I install a thermostat so I can leave the fan switched on.

I had the microwave out the other day and finally took pictures of my switched & thermostat controlled fan to ventilate the refrigerator compartment (inadequately vented by AS). Due to the lack of cabinet wall surface to install a large vent, I went with a 16 CFM squirrel-cage fan that pushes air out a small 1-1/2" hose that runs behind the wardrobe and vents near the switch at the rear TV.