Grand tracker continual build – page 8 – duramax diesels forum grade 9 electricity formulas

swapped back to the 100lbs top coil springs. forgot having the correct nitrogen pressure would change ride height some. 150s were way too much, 100s are spot on. Also flipped the dual rate carrier over and loosen up the dual rate stop on the shock to move up some. Put shocks back in and tighten down for good. Then played with spring preload. have it set with 0 preload and its still a bit tall. should squat some with the co2 tank, tools and spare parts back in the back. Then bled the brakes. they did NOT want to bleed. dunno if it had something to do with the load proportioning valve or what. My power vac bleeder would not pull anything through even with a little teflon on the bleeder threads to seal it up. had to do it the old fasion way. once fluid came through, the power bleeder worked fine. All the lines are good and no leaks so who knows. ****ing japanese shit…

stayed up till 12:30am trying to get everything finished up on the zuk for the weekend. Literally did everything on my list. took it for a test drive last night and ran into an issue with the shock resi hose getting caught up in the shock tower. notched it some but its not enough. ill have to put a 90* fitting on it which is fine as the valve is waaaaaaaay too stiff. .020 shim stack on compression and 1 free bleed open is way too much for this rig lol. Drove it into work and noticed it seemed to be dragging. get to a stop light and you can smell brakes. either i adjusted them too tight or the stupid suzuki brake system is making the brakes stick.

Yesterday i ordered up parts to bypass the damn load sensing proportioning valve suzuki uses. 90% sure its junk and causing my brake issue. ill beat on it around the neighborhood and see if the ass end locks up before front so i dont go sliding out in a panic stop on road. id probably leave it for the dirt but with it being a DD still, need a little safety in there. battery is also shot so ill pick that up with my bypass parts. hoping changing the pinion angle fixes my driveline issue. im pretty sure it will. its off a few degrees since i went to the DC style shaft and not a single joint at each end.

Tore the shocks down today to revalve them. I was expecting the double stacked compression valving but not the doubled up rebound. Didn’t realize how hard I was working these 2.0 shocks on my sand car. Shock fluid was burnt too. There was actually 2 free bleeds open as well. I was having a buddy revalve these at the time, mainly due to time restraints and lack of nitrogen tank at my house.

Went by foddrills and grabbed a gallon of shock oil and two stacks of .010 shims. Between all the shims that came off the shock, i got plenty of .020, .015, and .012 to change valving. Wanted to lighten the rebound way up though so it got .010 stack and the compression got .012 stack with a flutter.

And now for the brakes….. all that pissing and moaning about the stock load sensing proportioning valve and so on wasn’t my issue….. it was a full on pollack moment. I had put a brake line clamp on the rubber flex hose between the frame and body to keep the rear brakes from leaking. I never removed them…. removed it and wouldn’t ya know it, brakes work correctly lol.

Yesterday i got a new CV axle in the front end and dropped my driveshaft off to have the DC end cut off and a single u-joint put on. i just dont have the adjustment in the links to pinion angle where it needs to be for a DC style shaft. Then drove it in fwd around the neighborhood. i can already tell the rear valving is too soft (good thing) and i was smacking the bump stops (which are too hard). Im going to change up my rebound shim stack a bit more cause it still feels too slow. ill probably go to a set of .015 shim stacks on compression with a flutter and at min, remove the biggest shim from the rebound or swap to .008. thinking ill try the biggest shim removal first since i dont have any .008 shims on hand.

ive really been eyeing the idea of a rate plate in there. i sort of have one already but the shim stack is too tall to take advantage of it. I like the theory behind it for what ill be doing but i have not messed with them yet. not going too indepth with the rear end yet till i get the front end built as the front affects the back and the back affects the front. just want to get the ass end riding decent for the time being.

there is 3 sections to compression or rebound valving. low, medium and high dampening. Low consists of the 2 biggest around shims, med is the middle 2 shims and high is the last smallest shims. its all based on how fast the shock shaft velocity is. so little bumps or chatter like pot holes, wash boards, etc are what makes up the low side. 3 ft whoops or big jumps that are trying to jam that shock shaft in as fast as it will go is the high side. then you have the piston which directs flow and whats called "free bleeds". these are little holes in the piston that allow fluid around the valving stack. trying to keep them open without a shit ton of valving is the goal as it keeps the oil from getting super hot. then you have nitrogen pressure which is what protects against cavitation but can aid in making the valving work better.

thats the basics. then you have flutter stacks which is a certain orientation of how the shims are stack and its mainly found on the compression side. what it does is create a folcrum under the biggest or two biggest shims so they open up easier before contacting the shims below it and making them start bend. this is good for single shock rigs that have a hard time getting a smooth ride through chop.

then there is the rate plate which gets tricky. what you do is pull out a few shims from the typical 6 on the compression side, then put a thick washer under the smallest shim thats the same dia. as the biggest shim. what this does is let the 2-4 shims you have between the piston and plate work at low and some med shaft speeds, when you hit some hard, the shims flex to the rate plate and the plate stops any more flexing of the shims. this effectively creates a hard stop for fluid flow better than the typical pyramid stack would with a softer feel in the low and med shaft speed. issues is, you can build a shit ton of head pressure quickly and if not done right, you can blow the shock or resi apart from too much pressure. it also builds alot of heat quickly if you are in a racing situation and the shock is too small.

alot of it is trial and error. a guy videoing what the rig is doing over rough stuff gives you the best idea of how to make your next adjustment. you have to really know what to feel for and understand the difference between the front end and rear end as well as who is causing the issues. Biggest reason i love watching videos of guys at the strip. it tells you alot about a trucks setup if you know what to look for. ive been half tempted to try some valving tricks with a fox shock on a drag race truck that would work for DDing and the strip but with the adjustability of QA1 shocks, there is no reason to.