Head gasket – saturnfans.com forums b games car

So very good of you to post the procedure for changing the water pump on a 3.6L Vue. I have to say that I would be shocked if removing the engine mount is required to access the tensioner. Can you tell us where the engine mount is located?..likely 3 pts of restraint or so for the engine/trans. Perhaps…only speculation is…purpose of removing frt pass side wheel and inner fender is for tensioner tool access. What do you think? What tool did you use to de-tension the tensioner?…a dedicated long skinny dedicated tensioner tool used commonly on GM tensioners to change the serpentine belt?

There is a GM master mechanic that comes to this forum on occasion and his name is Satlite440. He is a transmission expert but is very knowledgeable about the entire driveline on these vehicles. I would suggest you send him a private message and see if he has any ideas about where the leak maybe emanating from. Another poster in this thread sounds like he may know as well based upon his comments and perhaps will give you further guidance.

On the Vue 3.6L, the passenger side engine mount is two pieces. The lower vibration mount portion mounts directly to the top of the frame rail via two nuts. The upper half is a solid aluminum casting that mounts to the lower half with three bolts. The casting also mounts to the side of the engine block via three larger bolts. I used a standard half inch ratchet to actuate the tensioner as I do not own a GM specific tool for this. I would imagine the GM specific tool is thin enough to fit between the frame and the tensioner. My half inch drive was not…hence the jacking of the engine in my case. Personally, I do not see how the tensioner could be accessed without removing the engine mount. Again, maybe it can be with specific tools. Nonetheless, the mount has to be removed to get at the WP. Also, I could see no way to access the tensioner from the bottom side. On the Vue, there are two pieces to the inner fender splash shield. One piece covers 90% of well fromt to back. The other piece is a small 4” x 14” (ish) piece along the bottom of the frame rail that only exposes the crank pulley for the most part. Removing it does provide visual access of of the passenger side of the engine, but not much else in my opinion.

I am completely new these animals. All my experience is on Vintage Mustangs. I have rebuilt the top end on my ‘01 Pathfinder which required removal of trans and engine. Fortunately, Nissan has excellent field service manuals. I try to do all of our mechanical work on our vehicles. I just don’t trust any local shops and can’t afford dealership labor rates.

To be honest, I can’t tell where the leak is coming from. All of the hoses are original and appear to be in good shape. When I pressurized the system prior to changing anything, there were and still are no leaks at any hoses. Best I can tell the leak on the passenger side only occurs with the engine running as it stops shortly after turning off the engine. The puddle I can see on top of the intake only forms when the engine is turned off. I can dry it and it doesn’t appear until several hours later (like overnight). Any leak in the upper intakes is possible. I am unfamiliar with how the coolant routes in these engines, so I don’t know.

afternoon gents..for some reason I can see you pic.s just a black box with an x in it..that said there is a water outlet neck above the w/p you have already changed there is an oring and a molded seal.if the w/p is leaking so are the outlet neck seals note there is no tstat in this housing the tstat is mounted on the other end of the block where the heater core hoses are by the trans bell housing bolt on the sidewinders(transverse mount) and aganst the firewall for longitudal mount like cts.. all aluminum engines unless there is a gross leak expand and contract about the same hence pressure testing is a marginal way to look if it’s fully cold or fully hot evan with pressure can be hard to find.the time to look is during warm up or 2 hrs after shutdown..these moters seep and not until they have lost 1&1/2 gallons or more do they start overheating..since I can see your pic unless you pm it to me.im guessing you can see it pooled up below the back side of the outlet neck below the lower intake manifold..if so that can be bad juju..but lets not be hasty..1st reseal w/p(you did already) reseal outlet neck above w/p 8ftlbs or 89 inchlbs is tourqe spec..inspect tstat housing on other end fr seeping or dried staining probably is some as when the 3.6L gets hot all the seals start seeping..if it is replace the whole housing..then run to operating temp&tstat open.flush area below head with a garden hose or pressure washer. and moniter for a few weeks..if there is coolant there again that’s the bad news there are 2 freeze plugs in the center of the top of the block.can only be seen with intake off for sidi moters and upper&lower intakes off for regular injection..unfortuaneatly the heads or at least 1 head has to come off to gain access to the freeze plugs…I have had a few customers report mixed results from using coolant sealers..if I had to I personaly would use the gm vegetable tab sealants we used to use on the northstars but I would only use 1 tablet at a time ..too much will plug a heater core. so 1 tab run and top off for 2 weeks and then see if still looseing coolant if so 1/2 a tab and repeat… while head removal is not complex it’s the 3 timming chains that are the killer and make sure you don’t remove chains until stage 1 timming is achieved or you will want to shot yourself in the head..keep me posted good luck&good hunting