Heating a van conversion – how to – the road is our home the road is our home electricity generation capacity


If you plan on living full time in your van conversion or even just using it throughout the colder months, at some point you’ll want some method of heating. Nobody likes a cold home and there’s no better feeling than coming back to a warm and cosy van after a long winters walk. There’s an unexplainable charm about having heating in a self-build, the novelty never seems to wear.

Van conversion, campervan, bus or motorhome, whatever your choice of transport there are many different setups and fuel choices that can keep you home-on-wheels nice and toasty. Diesel, LPG, wood, or more creative choices such as utilising heat from the vehicles engine are just some of them. electricity research centre I’ll cover all of these options, and the pros and cons of each, in the Van Conversion Guide, but in this article i’ll show you which option we went for, why we chose it and how we installed it.

We originally intended to install our heater in a cabinet under the hob, but when we came to fit it, we realised that the external exhaust (exiting through the floor) would of been too close to the vehicles fuel tank = not good. types of electricity pdf Fortunately it fitted perfectly into one of the seat bases. Now its fitted we’re actually really happy with the new location, but it was definitely more luck than judgement! TOP TIP: When designing your layout, take into account where the exhaust will exit underneath the van!

Four hoses connect to the heater; two larger hoses that are mounted inside the van, one is a hot air outlet and the other re-circulates cool air into the heater. Hot air rises so we mounted the hot air outlet low down on the font of a seat base and the re-circulating air intake under the bed (The coldest area of the van) which helps circulate the warm air and eliminate any chance of condensation.

Once happy that the heater fitted neatly in its place, we went about cutting the holes for the internal hot and cold air vents. The black vents that are supplied with the Propex kit require a 95mm hole, but we ended up purchasing a white Webasto 60mm vent to blend in with our cabinets (the heater hose is 60mm so we didn’t need to use the 95-60mm adapter supplied in the kit).

We then connected the exhaust and intake hoses to the base of the heater using the two supplied (and one extra) jubilee hose clips (i’m not sure why the only supply two?), then fed them through the holes in the floor and fixed the heater in place using the brackets and screws provided. electricity generation definition The brackets attach by simply loosening the four casing screws, slotting the brackets in place and re-tightening the screws.

Now is a good time to check over the gas connections using either a digital sensor or leak detection spray. Just to be 100% sure, we used both. Firstly the digital sensor which you simply hover around any joints or connections and it will make a loud buzz if any gas is detected, then secondly the spray, which you spray on the joints and look for bubbling. We then gave the pipe a good wiggle at the heater and the manifold end and then checked it again. inert gas definition chemistry If you are not confident connecting the gas, get someone who is qualified to do it.

The thermostat must be located between waist and shoulder height. Make sure that it is not mounted in an area with poor air circulation or in an area with above average heat, such as above a cooker, refrigerator or in direct sunlight. When deciding where to mount, check the length of the wiring loom that attaches to the heater unit, it’s fairly long but still best to check. We chose to install it on the side of our wardrobe so we could easily get to it when in bed 😉

The next step was to connect the loom to the heater. The Heatsource HS2000 heater is supplied with 2 wiring looms, a 2 core (for 12v supply) and a 6 core (for the thermostat), both are fitted with terminals and housings to plug into the main PCB positioned under the electronics cover on the heater. electricity merit badge worksheet We removed the two securing screws and lifted the cover off. The loom connects to the PCB via push connectors that are marked CN24 (power) and CN26 & 27 (thermostat). This may sound confusing but is simple once in front of you.

On first go it didn’t fire up and the warning indicator lit up, so we checked through the trouble shooting in the manual and followed the simple ‘Gas lock clearing procedure’, this purges any air in the gas line, e.g. after a gas bottle change. grade 9 electricity unit test This is done by simply turning the control knob from position 2 then to 1 and then back to 2. Once it’s done its thing, hey presto! We had heat!! 🙂

When turning the heater on there is usually a slight delay (10 seconds or so) before the green ignition lamp illuminates, this is perfectly normal operation. The heater may require several attempts before it lights. Once the heater is running, it will then cycle on and off to maintain the set room temperature. If ignition is not satisfactory the red LED will flash and you will need to refer to the trouble shooting guide.