Holden 6 performance help oldholden.com electricity song lyrics

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I built holden 6’s many years ago when I was 18 and this is what I used… 186 block- ACL pistons 060" oversize making it 192 Hastings rings- Vandervell bearings- Bathurst 6000 head – 35-75 Ivan Tigh hydraulic cam- Rhoades anti-pump up lifters -alloy timing gear-alloy gear on the distributor- Cain manifold and 350 holley 57 main jets power valve and cam standard on Holley all fully balanced standard fuel pump electronic ignition- no steel fan but electric fans on a larger radiator and extractors with a 2 1/2" single exhaust system all this in an EH wagon it would run to 7500 rpm in gear with a standard 3 speed on the tree and 3.55 gears in the diff and I got 100kph in first -160 kph in second and off the speedo in top gear and it returned 28 mpg on the highway (leaded petrol)…One thing to remember with all engines is get them up to operating temperature before you start giving them big revs all to many people start their engines then start flogging them straight away… hope this helps all you guys out there… they use as much petrol as your foot is heavy

202 rope seal red block, blue motor crank and rods, Crow hyd cam (slightly shorter duration but more lift than a 202 XU1 cam) Crane anti pump lifters, 186 head ported and cc’d, shaved to give 10.5:1 compression, and the inlets separator castings removed and sleeved, double valve springs, big inlet and exhaust valves, XU1 hv oil pump, ARP bolts, Blue motor dizzy regraphed, Genie Tri wire extractors through a 2.5" exhaust.

When the availability of leaded ran out it wouldnt go as good on ULP. As a "test" I got 20lts of avgas through a pilot mate and mixed it with 20lts of the ULP. Now that made a huge difference!, more power than I ever had from it but with avgas being illegal on road I wasn’t about to keep using it. Slowly the power started to wittle down over time and I thought the motor was wearing out (at 30,000 miles???) but one day a while after I’d taken it off the road I pumped the fuel out of the tank to put fresh stuff in to sell it. What came out was brown muck. arkla gas pay bill The fuel tank was rusting inside and when I pulled the pickup out it was so clogged up in the mesh it was a bloody miracle any fuel was getting to the carby at all!

hey i do a bit of work on a LJ 2 door with a 202 n supra 5 speed set up, we have run many differnt intake setups on it . firstly me and my sister purchased a stage 3 betta built engine that runs a 40/80 cam that had triple 2&half inch Su carbs on a redline manifold, the car runs very well with this set up. secondly we purchased the underbonnet nissan supercharger that had a 350 holly and a new reground cam riged up as well, the car’s preformance did not preform any better and we only could get 6psi running from the kits recommended pullies.third set up now consists of the orginal 40/80 cam and the triple SU’s on a larger lynx179 inlet manifold now the car cracks !! the ripper flys and has a good ratio in circut driveing. My next plan with the car is to use a blue 202 block and bore it 30thou put a black 202 crank ’cause its steel’in it with the largest batharst cam grind, try and purchase a stage 5 alloy 12 port head and roller rockers maybe then have a play aroud with the super charger setup and a vk injection system or bugga it i might go a high comp 202 runing 11.1 comp and burn it on methonal he he what ever’s street legal 😉 if any one has fitted or tried fitting a blue VH 202 block into a LJ torana please email me or if anyone wants info on the car i’ve worked on email me .. cheers !! ps 350Holly’s do not work on holden straight 6 cyclinders !!!! throw them down the paddock and by a XD 2 barrel carb n jet it down if ya wanna 2 barrel carbie on it

Hi, I own a EH with a lot of the mods mentioned here (and by the the way, 350 Holleys CAN be made to work good on red motors, mine is real good). It has 60" overbore and 30/70 cam, yella terra stage 3 head and genie extractors with a 2" exhaust. I also have a supra 5 speed W58 and 3.08 diff. My question is that where can I get an adaptor for a 2 barrel weber (off the falcon) or even a 350 Holley for a 2-barrel manifold? Or, even better, as I have the Holley manifold, is it possible to get an adapter for the weber to this manifold (i think its a cain manifold, but not sure as someone grinded off the brand name). wd gaster battle I just would like to know as I have been told they work much better and I want to know if its worth the money to change. And would the Holden water-heated manifold be any better for the Holley? And, by the way, I would just like to say why bother spending big dollars putting LPG in your car? (No offence indended.) My EH got 9.5L/100km and the motor’s new, I was driving along twisty country roads with plenty of hills (had to put my foot down a bit…) and had to stop/slow a quite a lot. gas near me now Seriously, this is cheap enough for me (its my first car and I only work at the local BI-LO), and it doesn’t use much more than most of the little Corollas and Hyundais that everyone raves about. Its not the fastest car in the world and I don’t care. I don’t need to race. I don’t need to do burnouts (stupid thing to do anyway). It looks good, cruises along nicely and the motor is more flexible than anything else I have ever driven (it pulls from about 1200 rpm quite happily). Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I had a Fiat 124 with two dual throats. When the whether changes say winter to spring or autumn to spring or hot day to cold week, they can need resetting at idle. (Iterate using a vacuum balance device, say 30 minutes to do). The economy was poor until the timing was set on the road rather than static marks, with foot flat in fourth at 60kph and light pinging should be heard (this was optimal). gaston y la agrupacion santa fe Then the economy was fantastic. Otherwise the performance was little different from static marks to 60kph road test setting for advance.(no vacuum advance was fitted at all by factory and there was a minor issue of distributor linked to cams timing not crank timing with a sometimes worn and sometimes new cam belt – say up to 5 degree errors)

Anyway, does anyone know the settings to start off, for a single DCOE on a 202? The fiat was a little tempermental in that you need to access idle speed easily say monthly and tune say four times a year for a half hour, but very economical and quick at high revs and variable at idle with varying RAD, etc. The velocity stacks to air filter housing was interesting too, as was the very large air box.

Ancient thread as I can see, but I also consider myself to be ancient! I have a good sound knowledge on the beloved old holden six. I have worked with ‘and often raced’ old holden sixes for over 30 years. gas equations chemistry From working on old 161 reds right upto 3.3 black EFI motors. I stopped working on these engines around 10 years back, because although they can be an absolute screamer of an engine, they are in-fact ancient technology and I find that mere OHC Jap 4’s often tend to beat this old Aussie icon! Nowadays I spend my time working on belt-drive OHC cross-flow sixes which have no pushrods to bend, heat up less and have proven to be a much more solid and reliable platform, but I thought it’d be nice to spend some time writing this up in hopes that someone, or some young tacker will gain some useful knowledge and make his old holden 6 run like an absolute pearler.

Some of the holden factory manifolds were relatively poor for removing the exhaust gasses, so changing a stock straight-through exhaust on a torana or kingswood with at-least an X2 exhaust or even better a good set of extractors would do quite nicely. For the VC-VK Commodores, removing the heat transfer setup and making metal blanks for the 2 holes helps eliminate exhaust gas leakage due to those poorly made fibrous gaskets that tend to blow out and burn out. If replacing the exhaust, keep the whole exhaust system at no more than 2-1/4" as you get a good level of back pressure which does affect your engine performance.

General carburetor preference being stromberg WW2 "make sure you get one that was jetted from a 186 motor and not a 253", the ford XE weber twin barrel "make sure you get one off the XE 3.3l and not the 4.1", and then you’ve got your general holleys. 320’s were great for the 202 and many people used these in the 80’s. The 350 holley, which people tend to dis-regard, mainly because they get one in a bad state or the fact they don’t know how to tune it or are running it on a bad motor, and then even better a 465 holley. I’ve got nothing really good or bad to say about the 350 Holley carburetor other than it’s better than a single barrel stromberg and I’ve had better results with them over the VaraJet II which is meant to flow better than the 350-H. grade 9 electricity test To top these carbies even and something that I would swear by is the mighty triple SU carburetor. Running 3 x HS6 carburetors often found on the morris mariner is a good match for this engine. electricity hair stand up Performance is dramatically improved over the VK EFI setup and would be hard to match by any other carburetor on the market. These are good for any performance engine configuration. SU Midel in Lakemba can supply all the parts you need at a good price including the jet pins and springs that you would require. For a manifold, I’d stay away from the redline ones, due to the fact that the carbies end up way too close to the exhaust and the side of the motor. The high profile Cain manifolds were the absolute best for this setup and putting a small cut on the manifold ends will allow you to fit these straight to a 202/3.3 blue/black cylinder head.