How to restore headlights without having a nervous breakdown – electricity definition wikipedia


Once the headlights are clean, it’s time to decide how ALL IN you’ll get with your headlight polishing jam: Are you going to play it safe and skip the sanding or are you going to be all NO FEAR and sand? You should sand! We didn’t sand and I’m full of regrets now.

Here’s the thing though: If you’re going to sand you must tape off the headlights using blue painters tape. If you’re not going to sand you can skip the blue painters tape or you can use the blue painters tape, your call. What you should NOT do however is use blue duct tape that you’ve mistaken for blue painters tape, which of course you would not ever do because you were not raised by wolves. (I, on the other hand … well, we’ll talk about it another time.) Sanding, If You’re Doing That

Sanding the headlight before you polish it is going to do two things: Level off the plastic and remove a lot of the oxidation that’s causing the fogging. For this, you’ll want 1000 grit automotive sandpaper and a spray bottle filled with water. Spray the headlights with the water and then use the sandpaper to, you know, sand. Keep the headlight wet as you work, sanding in a circular motion. It should only take about a minute or so of sanding before it’s compound time. When you’re done sanding, spray the headlight with more water and use a microfiber cloth to wipe the surface clean.

Using rubbing and polishing compound is incredibly straightforward — if you’ve ever polished a pair of shoes you already have the required skillset for the job. Here’s what to do: Put some of the compound on a clean microfiber cloth, i.e. not the one you used after sanding, and apply it to the headlight, working in a circular motion. That’s literally all there is to it! The catch is, however, that you want to rub and rub and rub and rub and rub. For, like, a pretty long time. Several minutes! Which doesn’t sound like a long time when you read it here but when you’re actually doing it is a pretty long time. (We kept stopping and wiping away the compound to check our progress and clap excitedly but that’s because we’re overeager dorks in addition to being pretty nervous people.) One thing that would have made the job easier is if I’d upended our washing bucket and sat on it instead of sort of crouching in front of the headlight. Music would have helped too.

On a lark, because by this point we were feeling much more confident about things, we also turned an orbital buffer on the headlights, to compare using the power of machinery to the manual method. What I would say about that is this: The buffer absolutely made the job faster and a bit more effective, but not so much that I’d send you out to buy one just for this task. I do think you should buy one but, like the blue duct tape, that’s another conversation for another day. However! If you own a power drill, definitely consider getting a buffer pad attachment or set of attachments, which will run you about anywhere from $7-$30. Also remember how I compared polishing headlights to polishing shoes? You can use the buffer attachments to polish shoes, which is absurd and unnecessary and is a thing you should 10,000% do.