I need some coaching on water testing z gastroenterol


I have given up on going to Leslies to get my water tested. I am really sick of the anti-phosphate hard sell every time I have them look at my water. This is my second year with the pool. Last year I got by with barely a clue, tabs, and a Pool RX capsule. I drained three months ago as TDS was off the charts.

About a month ago my CYA tested 30 at Leslies and then last week they reported it at 50. In that time I only ran maybe 9 chlorine tablets through the float and I did not shock with Chlorine. I am still using tabs because I am just now transitioning to the TFPC method.

I mixed the solution and dropped into the meeter tube with the black dot and it got pretty faint around 50, maybe disappeared around 48 but came right back when I stepped out of the shade and into the sun. Background lighting affects this test a lot. I added more down to about 40-43 before it was gone for good. The instructions say "until the black dot just disappears" Does that mean in bright light and when the dot stays gone or just fades back and forth?

Also, my TA came up at 80 last month, and then 90 last week. My test today, done twice, read 120 and my PH was 8+ It more slighter a deeper red than the top of the scale. We have some nasty wind here in Arizona for the past could days and the pool was a mess. I put half a gallon of acid in, turn the pump on, and cleaned up the pool and will test again in a few hours. Would the junk from the wind moved TA or PH like that? My PH is always climbing, but my TA has been fairly stable.

Hello and welcome to TFP! Yes, the black dot needs to disappear. That K-2006 is the regular size, while the 2006"C" has more reagents. No problem. I would recommend going to the TF-100 link below in my signature (don’t forget to update yours too) and order the CYA reagent refill – or anything else you may use a lot. Just look on their site, they have very good prices.

Definitely bring that pH down ASAP. Use the Poolmath calculator to help you determine how much acid to use. That should also bring the TA down a little. Remember evaporation and refills tend to increase both. Agreed – your FC is way too low and a recipe for algae. A SLAM is probably a good choice. So lower the pH to about 7.2 and commence with the SLAM. (Link below)

Now one final thought – make sure you have a good CYA number. Also consider if it’s really high (80 or above), you might chose to exchange some water to lower the CYA. That will also require less bleach for your SLAM. If you have any doubt about the CYA being over 100, follow the TFP diluted test starting at Step #8. Pool School – CYA. Even if you have to wait on those refills, you do need to be sure about the CYA.

You’d be surprised at how fast pucks can spike your CYA, especially in AZ where we don’t partially drain and close our pools every year (sometimes closed pools get just the right bacteria blend to eradicate the CYA over the winter!). I’d not be surprised if you were at 50 already with three month old water using pucks.

Your best bet now is to stop using those pucks and switch to plain, concentrated, unscented bleach (not Clorox, no fragrances, and not "splashless" or "EZ-Pour"). Using pucks will have you needing to drain and refill by this time next year, if not sooner.

Yes, a few days ago I SLAMed the pool with the assumption that CYA was at 50. I used liquid Chlorine, which our local grocery store sells in 10%, and the dose recommended in the app had it up to 27ppm in the evening. I woke up about 5am and tested it at 26.5 and it made it through the whole of the next day above the target of 20. I rushed the SLAM because I wanted to get the pool working and I did not have a serious problem with it–It was just down to almost zero chlorine and was a little cloudy after the heavy winds. The water is as crystal clear now as I have ever seen it and chlorine should be below 8 tomorrow and the pool will be open. But I have burned out the FAS DPD drops in my test kit–hopefully Leslie’s sells replacements to keep me testing until my TF-100 kit gets in.

The higher the percentage the quicker it degrades to a lower concentration. The 12.5% stuff at Corson’s is usually less than a week old this time of year. The guy told me that Hasa delivers it once or twice a week directly from their plant in Eloy. I did not look a my receipt carefully I just remember that is what the Corson’s guy said. He might have included tax in it–I’ll have to check. If that included tax, then the 12.5% would be marginally cheaper than Fry’s 10% but probably not enough for a special trip. It was nice for my overnight slam I did a few days ago (fished a rat out of the skimmer) but I will probably just stay on the 10% for regular maintenance.

BTW, since you are in AZ, how much Chlorine are you consuming this time a year? I am burning up almost a gallon of 10% every two days in my 31k pool. TFP is working great, and I don’t mind the 10 min I spend testing and balancing every other day, but I am using a lot more chemicals than I did than with my tablet floater last year. I understand why TFP is better–even the only way to do it, but I am curious if my chlorine consumption is on the mark. Replacing the defunct salt system on my pool is starting to look like a real option.