Issues with 850l gas up

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let me start with setup. for some reason, it seems that the dir-850L either cant, or wont, get proper DHCP info from our comcast cable modem and will not be able to establish a connection to the internet (but it will if daisy-chained through the linksys wrt54g2).

i was able to puzzle out a solution, under Manual Connection Setup, i apparently MUST enter a dns server (either comcast’s or google’s) AND click the "clone your PC’s mac address" button. manually entering the 850L’s mac address (or that of the wrt54g2) will not work.

for this: Laptop will refer to a laptop running WinXP Home with an ASUS USB-N13 wireless adapter (11n) and PC running Win7 Home with a TP-Link PCI card (11g). both computers are in the same room. the dir-850L is not 30ft away, on the other side of a wall, and is configured as: 2.4ghz band in mixed b/g/n mode, auto channel scan enabled, best (auto) transmission rate, with 20/40mhz auto channel width. security is WPA-personal, WPA2-only with AES cipher. 5ghz band is disabled. all other settings should be in their default state.

signal strength, as reported by inSSIDer, is good on both laptop and PC, but transferring files between the two is very sluggish. 800KB/sec-1MB/sec at best, but more commonly around the 200-400KB/sec range or less. and unlike with the wrt54g2, transferring files simultaneously incurs a much higher latency when playing online games.

in the same vein, pinging around the WLAN, such as from PC to laptop or from PC to the router, result in wildly variable ping times, all several hundreds of milliseconds, and even pings over a full second, and that’s assuming the ping requests dont simply time out, which they frequently do.

I too recently bought the same model router from Newegg (2 months ago now) and had the exact same problem as you describe… to the letter. I also have comcast internet, and experience the same initial connection issue. I never stumbled onto the DNS changing to get connected, I just kept rebooting my comcast modem over and over and eventually it connected. But, it’s amazing how similar our problems are.

I also had terrible wireless performance – I even purchased a new D-link 433Mb wireless usb adapter (DWA-171) thinking it might be my old laptop NIC causing issues. Same deal with with the new NIC as the old – like you – about 10 feet away (no wall) 100% signal, connected at 433Mb/sec, and took 15 minutes to copy a 750MB CD iso from a dlink NAS. Pitiful. Hook my laptop up wired at 100Mb? Pffffff.. copy took 6 mins.

I ended up calling D-link support and getting more frustrated. I spent a total of 1.5 hours on the phone with lady who barely spoke engrish – and we went through all sorts of different configs. Eventually she gave up and said it must be defective. However she kept asking me how I received the 1.09 firmware when 1.07 was the latest. I tried 3 times explaining on their product downloads section 1.09 is there – but, when I click update firmware from the device itself.. 1.07 is the latest.

Sigh.. Newegg offered a replacement model and it cost me the shipping back to them. After about 2 week without the router a new one came from newegg.. and it has worked almost flawlessly. I had the initial problem of getting a DHCP address from comcast, but after that hurdle? It’s been solid and the performance has been what I expect. I can only guess Newegg received a bad batch.. and we were a couple of ‘lucky customers’.

I recommend that you have your ISP check the cabling going to the ISP modem, check signal levels going to the ISP modem. Check for t.v. line splitters and remove them as they can introduce noise on the line and lower the signal going to the ISP modem. Connecting to the ISP modem could result in a false positive as the signal to the modem could be just enough to that point then adding on a router, could see problems. The router operation is dependent upon getting good data flow from the ISP modem and the modem is dependent upon getting good signal from the ISP Service.

auto channel scan is on, and router’s currently on channel 2. turning channel scan off and using 1 or 6 doesnt produce any noticeable improvement in wlan speed or ping time. switching to G/N-only actually kicked the PC off (has a tp-link wireless G card)

If your confident that your ISP modem and services are good and that the FW update is good and after this, the router isn’t working well, I would get a replacement ASAP or phone contact D-Link support and ask for an RMA. Let us know how it goes. Here to help out.

i spent about an hour with comcast support, see if they might have any bright ideas. no dice on that front, but i did learn that the low WLAN speeds is most likely just that, low WLAN speed. eg, if i connect to the router via ethernet, i can get 20-24mbps downstream from the 25mbps service from comcast (upstream is still 5mpbs regardless), but connecting at wireless b, g or n and the best i get is 13-15 down, and more often just 9-10mbps.

was never able to get the 850L to get DHCP info from the cable modem at default settings, no matter the firmware (might be the modem’s issue, it wouldnt DHCP a laptop connected directly to it either, something comcast wanted me to try for diagnostics.)

now, i understand that with overhead, cross-channel overlap and interference, and assorted other real-world conditions, im not going to see the full "advertised" speed, but its an 80% drop off G specification, and an even smaller fraction of N. seems to me like im paying $70 for no increase in performance.

the intent was to get a new N or AC router suitable for wireless media streaming, specifically the google chromecast unit, for a tv about 15-18m away from the router, plus gaming. i was looking for something in a dual-band flavor, to keep the pc/laptops separate from the tv if possible. that the 850L was reasonably priced, had a guest mode, gigabit lan, and a usb port for a harddrive or something was just extra perks.

ultimately though, and i dont know if its my own lack of knowledge here, or the wireless adapters in the computers or just what, but this has turned out to be more of a headache than i feel it’s worth so i decided to take thunter’s advice above, and return the router to newegg.