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i still think the clear cap is tacky, but the lexan isn’t as brittle as the bakelite, so i’ll shut up and use it. switching to the dual fire means i remove the old FM distributor cap and rotor, and just use the electricity production same under-rotor two-lobe cam to spark the each cylinder directly every 360, instead of every 720. i still have the old single-fire parts, including a NOS coil, and i can switch back in about 12 minutes if i need to. these things are super simple to run and tune, once they’re working to start with.

the single red wire is my entire electrical system. it runs from the points to a kill switch on the bars and grounds the points to kill the engine. it caused me confusion earlier because it reads npower electricity meter reading continuity to ground even when the motor is running– i’d never thought to put a meter on it when the magneto was running correctly. i’m using gas stations in texas el cheapo eBay chinese toggles that cost me about US$4.50 each. i bought a half dozen:

this thing works like a buzz box, and replaces the 12V-1157 light bulb and soldered wires i’d been using as an indicator of when the magneto points were opening. i couldn’t detect a change in the bulb brightness. i also tried a piece of mylar with some washers clipped to it with alligators as weights. doing that meant that when the points opened the weights fell out on the floor. that worked as long as the points were perfect, but it was a pain to get the mylar into the point gap, and either power outage houston txu one of these meant that you had to open the magneto cover, which isn’t easy to get to. this morris box hooks up to any ground and to the ground stud on the magneto, from the outside, without opening anything. it detects induction changes as the points open and close, rather than continuity, and switches on a light and a buzzer. it’s actually more sensitive than my ability to detect movement of my fingers gsa 2016 catalog as they rotate the pulleys.

once the machine is running at the 38 BTDC mark, i can set it to anything else using the modified ARD mag mount. the four mounting bolt holes are slotted, so i have 20 degrees of rotation to play with by tapping the mag backwards and forwards, just like an automobile distributor. you can do it with the motor running as well, so i can use a dial-back-to-zero light o goshi judo on the crankshaft rotor to set the tming much more quickly and repeatedly that i could ever get just using static timing alone. this is fantastic. i have no idea why the originals weren’t made this way. slotting the mounting holes is hardly more difficult than drilling them in the right place to start with.

the electricity word search printable magneto doesn’t make a perfect spark, and there are some ghost timing marks, too, probably from point bounce. but it runs well, and i may keep this system instead of putting the pazon back in. the pazon had way more complexity in the wiring and electricity was invented i had to put a battery in somewhere. i now have an oil tank where the stock battery box was, so i don’t know where i’d put the little shorei, small as it is.

^^^i also made the exhaust to get an extra inch of clearance between the magneto and the pipes. the old ARDs bump the stock pipes on a long-rod 650, and won’t clear a T140 gas 2 chainz at all without some changes. making the pipes myself let me run them away from the head an extra inch and a quarter before turning them down. i also learned to put my O2 sensor in the leftpipe, not the right one . . . haven’t mounted it in this, although it would be easy to duct tape a battery on for AF testing. no more time.