Mercedes-benz 190e spark plugs, wires, cap and rotors replacement w201 1987-1993 pelican parts diy maintenance article electricity worksheets grade 9

One basic tune-up procedure for just about any car on the road is the replacement of your spark plugs and spark plug wires. I recommend examining and/or replacing your spark plugs every 30,000 miles, or about once every other year. In reality, you can probably go longer than that, (most manufacturers recommend an interval of 100,000 miles) but, you never really quite know how long the plugs are going to last. A lot of factors can contribute to the plugs wearing out faster than you might expect especially as the car ages. Another part you should check is the distributor cap and rotor. In this article, we will show you how to replace your rotor, distributor cap, seal, wires and plugs.

Begin by prepping the car. The only thing that you really need to do is to make sure that the car is cold. If you try to remove or install spark plugs in a hot car, then you may encounter problems with the spark plugs gumming up or damaging the relatively delicate threads in the aluminum cylinder head. Make sure that the car is cold, or at the bare minimum, only slightly warm to the touch.

If you are only changing the plugs and rotor, it is a good idea to label the wires so you will know which goes on which. Begin by removing the plastic cover that holds the wires along with a vacuum line along the top of the valve cover. It simply pops out using a screwdriver. If your car is older, there is a good chance the plastic is brittle and may crack. The cover on our project car had been taped together in several places.

Once the wires are free from the cover remove them from the plugs. Grab the wires by the boot and turn them slightly and pull straight out. Do not attempt to pull them out by the wires as there is a pretty good chance you will just rip the wire from the boot.

Remove the three Torx screws holding the rotor to the cam shaft and replace with a new rotor. There is a guide key that the rotor fits into that lines it up, do not try and force the rotor on any other way than sliding it into the guide key. The rotor comes with new Torx screws. Replace the dust seal on the dust cap while you are there.

Push the new cover over the new distributor before you install it on to the engine. The new distributor does not come with new Allen bolts so make sure you remove the bolts from the old one before you throw it out. Place the new distributor and cover on the head and tighten.

Remove the old plugs and check for any signs of an unhealthy engine. Burnt, wet or oily plugs are all signs of engine trouble and should not be ignored. Typically, you want to see a slightly tan, burnt appearance. This will indicate that your engine is running normally. A really good idea when working around your plugs is to tape your socket and extension together. There is a small rubber grommet inside the spark plug socket that helps hold the plug in place while in a vertical position, this grommet also has a tendency to separate the socket from the extension when you don’t want it to and will leave you fishing out your socket with needle nose pliers. Slide the extension all the way down until you feel the socket firmly grip the spark plug. The spark plugs should be tight in the cylinder head, but not overly difficult to remove with a little force. Install your new plugs and torque according to your engine specs.

I don’t recommend using anti-seize compound on your plugs as the theory is that the anti-seize tends to act as an electrical insulator between the plug and the cylinder head. This could have detrimental effect on the firing of the spark due to the loss of a good, consistent ground connection.

With the new plugs installed you will need to run the plug wires, along with the vacuum line back into the plastic cover in the valve cover. I found this to be the most frustrating part of the whole job, as they have a tendency to slip out of place and be a general pain. Just take your time and get it right. Once the wires and cover are snapped in place, attach the boot to the plug by firmly pushing the boot down.

Comments: Hello, I have a 1986 MB 190E 2.3 and would like to replace the distributor rotor. But I did not see any screws on the rotor. However, I tried to remove the rotor but it is very tight. Is there any special tools to remove the distributor rotor? Thank you so much for your help.

Comments: My 190E Build for Japanese market has a different distributor more towards the left of the engine, held by 1 one stardrive bolt. First question is this metric or imperial sized? I attempted to use a stardrive T40, but it is too loose and the next size T45 is much too big.

Comments: Nick I would value your suggestions on why the car stumbles during acceleration. All vital signs like compression etc etc are excellent on the 2.3 motor, it will start, idle and cruise, but on acceleration seems to starve for fuel, dies on hills, and I dare not overtake other cars. Things like the fuel pressure regulator and the EHA unit have been suggested, since catalytic converter has been cleared, new fuel pump filter fitted, and fuel pressure from the pump checked and found OK. Any ideas please?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: All can’t be that well if it runs that way. if the exhaust is clear and backpressure has been confirmed to be normal, you have to look at how the engine is breathing. If there is good spark and fuel pressure and volume, there may be a restriction in air delivery. Inspect the air intake pipe and load sensor operation. – Nick at Pelican Parts

Comments: Hello again Nick. FYI and for other owners of 190E-2.3 cars, NGK advise that the listed plug Iridium BPR6EFIX.10has a fixed plug gap of .10mm hence the .10 suffix which should not be changed since it may damage the iridium surface. Again thank you for your help. Regards, Bruce.

Comments: Thanks for the very informative article. When I look at the parts ordering page, however, it’s also showing an "ignition cable," which isn’t mentioned in this article – although you do show another "wire" going to the "coil/intake system." Is this the ignition cable?

I can see my distributor cap and my leads plugged in and the 3 hex screws. My confusion is that all the caps I see advertised are orange as are my niples sticking out and the leads pluged in. My question is the black cover with the 3 hex screws and orange points sticking out only a cover with the orange distrubuter cap inside or is this the whole unit in one with the nibs without another distributor cap inside? Please help Thank you