Mercedes-benz w210 auxiliary cooling fan belt replacement (1996-03) e320, e420 pelican parts diy maintenance article electricity 2014

Comments: My 1999 210 has a check engine light on and I had the code read and was told it indicated a problem with the air pump smog pump. I’m not where this pump is located and if there is a test to determine if it is the pump or a relay of some kind. Any suggestions?

Comments: Thank you for posting this article. My W210 was running hot and I had no idea why. I did the dual auto test and could hear the fan screeching. I followed these instructions and found the belt has lost grip and turned itself inside out causing slippage of the belt. I greased up the fans and put the belt back on properly, still fit tight. The car now runs fine between 80-90 degrees as normal, another W210 saved.

Comments: Hi, I have a W210 chasis model E430 mercedes 2002, I have checked the motor of the aux twin fan, the fan belt,the fan relay is new, and those are fine, because if you put direct power to the fan, that works properly,however conected to the complete system it doesn’t work, afecting as well the A/C conditioner’s performance due the high temp on the A/C compresor, Any idea, that what coul be be the problem? or how to put direct the twin fan to the power. Any brigde on the relay?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you activate the fan using a Mercedes-Benz scan tool? The issue could be in the SAM or the air control module. The air control module is more likely at fault. Using the scan tool to activate it, you can narrow it down. The air control module is a fancy relay, located in the left front engine compartment, it has a 6 pin connector. – Nick at Pelican Parts

Comments: I ordered the Behr replacement fan for my 2002 E430 because the belt jammed up the old fan and burned out the motor. Directions were great, but I also had to remove the horn mount and the clips holding that black tubing you can see in that picture Figure 5 because it was very rigid and would not let me pull the fan out. Also no hood release cable under the support frame on my model. Saved $700 off dealer estimate and A/C is blowing nice and cold. Thanks!

Comments: Thanks for the excellent DIY info, it worked great. I’ve got a small tip. If the plastic snap-in pins described in step 1 are broken or missing, the screw-in type drywall anchors you can buy at a hardware store make a great substitute. They screw in to the existing holes, and tighten up nicely. I used "Twist-n-Lock" brand.

Comments: After stumbling around on various websites and forums looking for relevant information, only to be confronted with incomplete and confusing information presented by well-intentioned people who, unfortunately, haven’t got a clue as to how to present a clear and understandable explanation, what a pleasure to run across this excellent set of step by step instructions, replete with all the photos you could need! Thank you so much for this excellent presentation! I am marking your website down for future reference.

Comments: Great instructional!!!!!!! It took me about 45 minutes, however I have a question. Whoever owned the car before me took the positive wire and tied it into a line that is hot whenever you turn the ignition switch to the on position probably a sensor went out and it was a cheap fix for them can you tell me what sensor I need, and a picture of where it goes?