Mtl gp chassis shortened length of mtl f unit. – z central station 9game


I used the same method as David K Smith did on his MP15 project, but I shortened only one end of the GP chassis to get an F unit chassis length I needed with GP power. I removed the small fly electricity dance moms song wheel and then drilled out the long end of the worm gear axle shaft with a #69 drill and then used a reamer to get a tapered fit to the ceramic shaft. And then press fit the worm to the shaft. This is delicate work as the ceramic shafts are very fragile. (I understand from Loren that current motors in used in production now have metal shafts) For removing the small fly wheel I used the NWSL box section wheel and gear puller but substituted a piece of brass U channel with a slot for the ceramic shaft for the plate to push against and used a custom pin made from a dentist dental reamer fitted into the end of the screw in the puller.

In the pictures you can see the section I removed and the reconnection using a 00-90 screw down electricity and magnetism lecture notes from the top of the chassis under the PCB with the lights. I made my cuts in such a manner that I left the retension post for the PCB in place. In the alignment process I used a shim of .040 inch styrene custom cut to fit the complete chassis when fully assembled. I screwed the two main chassis pieces in place, then screwed the two nose pieces to-gether and lid them onto the shim and aligned them up properly. I used a small piece of the .040 shim stock forward of the nose spacer to provide leverage to close the nose piece on the styrene shim. Otherwise it won’t tighten up and stay in place for the next step. Once I had the nose piece aligned using steel straight edges I then put a drop of ACC in each cut line to hold the pieces in place and fill the gaps. Even cutting with the finest saw blades there is some loss of material in the cut. After a few minutes I repeated the process of filling the gaps with ACC. After letting it sit for half an hour I started the drilling process to provide the electrical connection between the two halves of the chassis. Without the screws you would only have power pickup from one truck not both as the ACC glue provides an insulator in the gap between the nose and the main chassis pieces.

Once I had completed installing the screws I then used my excel scroll saw to cut the clearance from la gas leak the fuel tank area to clear the front truck and used a file to clean up the cuts. A word of caution when drilling and tapping the 00-90 screw. If you go down exactly centered in the square lug on the main chassis you will come out of the side wall of the chassis in the area where the rear worm gear shaft bearing was located. This in itself is not a problem as you won’t be using that bearing, but requires caution when drilling and tapping as this sort of location for te end of the hole can lead to breakage of the drill bit or later the tap. So you could really bugger the project if it happens. I used safe tap fluid for both drilling the holes and running the tap into the hole. I also back and clear gas and electric phone number the drill bit and the tap several times in the process. The screw I used was the one from MTL that we use for body mount couplers as they are the right length.

I don’t have a dentist’s reamer to enlarge the hole in the worm. To drill the hole in the first place, I mount the worm in the chuck of a 1/4-inch drill, hold the bit in a pin vice, and run the drill at the lowest speed. This causes the drill to center better. Then I leave the bit in the worm while it continues to turn gas outage for a moment or two; this enlarges the hole just enough to press-fit on the motor shaft.

Like you I tend to cut short and hand dress the mating surfaces with a file to fit but I found I needed a bit of distance between the pads and the top of the nose to get the nose bottom edge level with the rest of the chassis. Since I would be putting a screw through this gap for electrical and mechanical connection I did not use any brass shim stock to fill the gap as the ACC is more than adequate for the 2-3 thou gap.

I made three cuts to remove the nose and shorten it. First cut was level with the top of the nose and went back under the pad almost to the motor spring slot. The second cut was down the face of the pad starting with the PCB retaining post at the bottom. When I reached the PCB retention pin I just rotated the saw blade through the bottom gas pains 6 weeks pregnant and back up under the pin. The third cut was then just forward of the motor spring slot. The last four cuts were to shorten the fuel tank and create the clearance required for the truck under the new shorter nose. Just followed the side profile of the original forward edge of the bottom of the chassis ahead of the fuel tank. The bottom cuts were done after I had aligned and fixed the new shorter nose to the rest of the chassis.