New naa companion black powder cap and ball. electricity generation efficiency


Pyrodex will go bang, but if you really want to enjoy your mini, get hold of some 4F, or, at least, 3F. I have never used #10 caps, make sure that your cylinder will rotate with them in place. Remington #11 are the recommended, and best fit for these, (I’ve got 9 Companions in varying configurations) I have never had any chainfires, and don’t always lube the cylinder prior to firing, but I do make sure to point the barrel down and shake out any possible over powder from the loading process. The NAA bullets seal the opening very well. #4 soft lead, not the stuff for reloading shotshells, it has a hardening agent, usually Antimony, and will work you to death to get it into the cylinder, not so much on the Super-Companion’s, although pure lead is easier on them too. There are a couple of companies that make shotmolds, but, to my knowledge, there isn’t anyone making bullet molds for these wheelguns. Another lesser known possibilty is to pour your powder or powder substitute onto a plate, and gently grind it into smaller granules, thus increasing your explosive power, not recommending this method, but it has been done in a pinch.

Armadillo is often slow cooked buried in coals or in a crock pot. It takes hours and hours to "loosen up" the meat. Salt/pepper, garlic butter, chilis and your favorite hot sauce. "Shelling out" a dillo is quite a chore. The hispanic methods I’m aware of typically cook it in the shell. Most methods try to offset the "nature" of the meat. Take from that what you will.

Small amounts, HUMID day, static-free absolutely. Dry days increase static electricity power. I live in a very humid climate so the doorknob almost never shocks me. If you’re lucky enough to have a grounded wrist strap and grounded mat, such as an "electronics workbench," you’ve got it licked. Another method is to do it in the bathroom (!?!?) with the hot shower running to humidify the room. Touch a metal grounded water pipe as you work and after you sit down, shouldn’t be a factor. Or you could move to the wet south and do it 3 1/2 seasons a year.

As far as WHAT to grind the powder with, you certainly could use a quality mortar and pestle. No trouble there. I use a flat-bottom heavy drinking glass and a paper plate. When triple 7 3f gets "fine enough" to crack 900 fps in a 4 inch barrel, it starts to turn to a very sticky gray powder. The uncrushed granules will slide around the plate, but the gray dust sits in place to be scraped up with a folded index card. I don’t use mesh to sieve it. The reason for this is the nature of black powder (and the subs to a degree.) "Swiss Null-B" is the finest powder you can get, the "tailings" left over from sifting out all other sizes (including 4f.) Since 4f is "primer powder" for a flintlock, then Null-B is "good primer powder." If the pressures were crazy nuts, the chronograph would tell me, most likely along with a loss of containment of the gun gasses with a fragmenting percussion cap. If the ground-up triple 7 were "dangerous," then wouldn’t the velocities be even higher than firing .22 lr CCI Stingers from an NAA gun of the same barrel length? I haven’t found this to be the case. In my guns, ground up Triple 7 will never defeat a .22 magnum from a gun of the same barrel length (all else being equal.)

I did a side-by-side test of the 4" cap and ball versus the 4" Mini Master. It was invaluable to make "apples to apples" comparisons. The only real problem with not sifting is a loss of shot-to-shot consistency. I found that using #4 buck (with a separate loading press) dramatically increases shot to shot consistency due to the large contact area after the roundball is swaged into the chamber. I don’t grind and grind and grind. I let it "turn gray" and load up.

I’ve heard NAA say "not recommended" on the triple 7. Since you’ve got to change the charge volume usually, I could see this as the NAA cap and ball is wickedly balanced. Using BP subs versus straight black can affect the required charge weight by over 15%. However, it’s all balance. NAA suggests 4F black, but the 777 I use in my 4" is the 3f. The only way it’s dangerous to use a slower powder (at the correct volume) is a "squib load" where the bullet gets stuck in the barrel and kabooms on the next shot. I get very consistent results at 800s-900s, depending on exactly what I do. Again, this is a 4" barrel. My ballistics studies indicate that 3F 777 powder will do BADLY in the two smaller NAA C&B variants. I’ve got the big boy (at least, ’till they make a C&B Hogleg.)

I like the way you put that. My answer would be "not really." Some of those YT posters amaze me that they still have all their fingers. Seriously, though. Grinding your powder dates back to the old black powder military. Those powder kegs most likely contained F or FF (1 f or 2 f) cannon powder. To fire your flint lock, you’d have no choice but to grind some up. This activity was depicted in the excellent series " Sharpe’s 95th Rifles." They opened a book (a Bible was depicted in the series,) poured on a little powder, then used their ramrods as rolling pins. Close the book slightly to gather the powder along the spine, then dump into your paper cartridges or flask. In the video series, they explained that they did this to increase their effective range. Logically, this makes sense as the smaller grain size increases the burn rate and gets more gun gas behind the bullet rather than spraying out of the muzzle partially burned. Of course, this is a video. However, they took great pains to get the black powder stuff right. I just thought I’d mention a good series with swords, horses, and black powder.