New service, no water pressure (really… none.) – plumbing – diy home improvement diychatroom q gas station cleveland ohio


The water utility says their main feeding our meter box has 150-200 psi, which can vary depending on tower levels and whether or not pump stations are running. They installed a regulator and set it to 150psi. The water then flows through the meter and a check valve before exiting the utility’s box and entering mine. The pipe / meter size is 3/4".

The 2" line goes up the mountain. The length of the pipe is about 1350 feet. The rise is 264 feet. The 2" SDR9 at the top of the hill is connected directly to a frost free faucet. Beyond the utility’s meter box, there are no additional check valves, regulators, etc that would further reduce the pressure.

Beyond the second day, no flow has reached the top of the hill. Due to weather, I haven’t had an opportunity to install a pressure gauge down in my shutoff box, but plan to very soon. I’m pretty certain the lines are clean and don’t have any dirt, etc in them. The SDR was capped when we installed it, but we flushed the line from the top of the hill by filling it, and then breaking it open down by the meter.

I need help coming up with a plan. Regardless of what I do, it looks like I can’t plan on the utility water having enough pressure to reach the house we’re building. We’re going to need to somehow pump it to the house from a midway point up the hill.

I’m looking for a recommendation for the best method to do this. I’ve searched forums, youtube, the web, etc and haven’t found much aside from people who put pumps and pressure tanks inside their home. In my case, the water doesn’t reach the home.

while with current setup a maximum of 35 psi psi may reach your elevation at house; it is not a given (to me) your provider is constantly maintaining 150 psi during peak hours of demand… for example if pressure is dropping to 115 psi or less you will not get any pressure/flow…

that said, I am certain you have a 3/4" tap but it could be paired up with a 5/8" meter & base; this is a flow restriction or an orifice that can also cause a pressure drop… & is check valve a swing or spring design? what type is 3/4" valve? what type piping is 3/4" & 1" ? who decided to install a reducer in front of meter when max psi at house is theoretically 35-85psi without a reducer installed ???

my first question is where & what size is water main in relation to meter? in other words did provider tap directly off main or did they extend/run a line from their main to your meter & if so how far linearly & is there any head loss involved from water main to meter & what is this footage ? also what size pipe is the extension?

2) 346 feet equals shut off head for any flow @150 psi meaning an additional elevation of 80 feet between the pump & meter is huge… where is provider’s pumping station in relation to your water meter? & what elevation is pump in relation to meter elevation? did you/they confirm 150 psi at meter?

4) given you are looking at booster pump & powering said pump, were you given an option of a 2" water meter tap & if so what was cost compared to booster system? in other words, why was a 5/8 meter selected/provided for the known massive head loss involved?

6) your statement conflicts… first you say, day 1 – flow but no mention of flow rate so I presume it was adequate? day 2 was noted as 1 gpm so was this truly measured as in, it took 5 minutes to fill a 5 gallon bucket or simply eyeballed as a pencil stream? if so was a hose connected to bib & is hose new, old, kinked? what is ID of said hose?

IMO if you truly have a constant 150-200 psi water source, you should consider a 2" tap/meter that would allow no flow restrictions up to your location & theoretically 35 psi reading into home; technically you may need 2" tap to allow booster to properly function if pressure realistically fluctuates at meter…

with current setup, I would politely ask if the (city’s?) regulator/reducer in ground (in front of meter) can be removed since it is a given it is not IF but WHEN this valve will malfunction… ask them who is going to maintain this piece of equipment going forward? tell them you would rather/will install & maintain a regulator at your incoming water line to your house at top of hill… as is usual.

Specific weight is based on density. Since water is virtually non-compressible, its density doesn’t vary by height. Meaning we can ignore width or diameter of the water pipe (or well casing). Only the height of the column of water really matters with regards to psi. The pressure exerted by a column of water inside of any vertical pipe, measured at the bottom of that column, is determined as follows:

The pressure of a column of water is about 0.433 psi per foot of column height; so at his meter the static pressure for 265 feet is 115 psi… so think of an ocean of freshwater; at 265 feet deep the pressure will also be 115 psi regardless of the volume involved…

What this truly means is the weight of water is already factored into static head pressure for a given height. & While static pressure is usually the standard criteria, in this worst case scenario, we have to account for flow dynamics and measure dynamic water pressure… which is the pressure shown anywhere on the water supply piping system when one or more plumbing fixtures is drawing water. Obviously the more fixtures that are running, the lower the dynamic water pressure will be… I think we can all agree that potable distribution pipes works best with proper flow involved.

So For the same incoming pressure, In a smaller pipe the water velocity will be higher causing greater friction losses. Therefore, Lowering the velocity & friction requires a larger pipe; in other words, A bigger pipe can carry the same flow but at a slower velocity rate.

Therefore, as friction loss is dependent on velocity, the friction loss is also reduced. So if we have increased the supply pipe much bigger than what is theoretically required, we have thereby satisfactorily reduced the friction losses. & If we don’t loose as much friction as in the smaller pipe, we will end up with a more usable pressure when the water is flowing at the higher (house) end than with a smaller pipe. Which can only be a good thing.

The height of the shower head is appx 280 feet higher than the meter. To have 60psi at the home, we would have to raise the pressure down by the meter to around 180psi. Our SDR9 2" pipe is rated for 250psi, but the utility seemed nervous about having this kind of pressure on my side of their meter, even if a RPZ was installed.

I did finally get a pressure gauge installed in my shutoff box down by the meter. It looks like their claim of 200psi regulated to 150psi at the meter is falling short. Each time I’ve checked it, it has been somewhere between 100 and 115psi at my gauge.

I’ve been crunching some numbers. Because we’re using a 2" line, friction loss isn’t really a factor. When looking at elevation, I think we may need to put a pump midway uphill of the meter. If we choose of an existing line coupling, we would be 123 feet above the meter. If the utility guarantees 90psi, then the pump would always have 36psi available, but normally would be in the 45-55 range. From there, it’s another 157ft up the hill. We would need to increase the pressure to around 130psi at the pump to have 60 psi available at the home.