Paul’s honda nighthawk pages repair tips speedy q gas station


Just wanted to share one of my engine cleaning secrets that I used on the 4×4 when I would go mudding. I can’t believe I didn’t think of this for on the bike before now. I use to have an 89 Toyota 4×4 that I took mudding all the time. When I wanted to clean it up I would use STP Tire Foam and spray the entire engine and chassis. It would dissolve any grease and the dirt and mud from my 4 wheeling and leave everything spotless. I was thinking I needed to get some more to clean the car when I thought, duh, use it on the bike. Man, I hate washing the bike and trying to get into all the areas with the engine exposed and all, so I just sprayed down the engine, drive shaft and wheels, which are a real pain to keep clean with that textured black paint. Not only did it dissolve all the grease and grime and leave the engine shiny black, but also gives all the wires a beautiful just armor-alled look. Of course you must be careful of the wiring and especially the plugs, but this trick works great. Do be careful though and DO NOT get it on the tread of the tires or they will be slick as you know what. I just let it sit for a while, then polished the fender and pipes, put a fresh coat of wax on the tank and the bike looks great.

When I use to do this to the truck, it had 98,000 miles of grime on it when I purchased it. mp electricity bill payment online indore I totaled the truck at 125,000 miles and the insurance company gave me an extra $1800 over book value because it was so clean. They sent me a list with my payoff check of everything, $250 – engine extra clean, $150-transmission extra clean $150-drive-train and chassis extra clean, etc.

For those who don’t want to buy a Corbin you can simply remove the seat cover stapled underneath the seat with about .5 inch overlaps, remove the OEM masochistic padding, put your own increased padding and then instead of overlapping the cover under the seat, simply take it to the edge of the plastic seat bucket and attach with silver or gold rivets or prongs with holes drilled through the plastic bucket. This allow much more padding and I think looks better. You no longer have the passenger bump and can sit as far back as you want. You can keep or leave off the strap. My padding of almost two pillows worth will sag over the sides as I sit making for a widder seat but doesn’t appear saggy when not ridding. It does increase rider height. I’ve gone from an under 50 mile rider to twice that comfortably. You can adjust the handlebars a little to accomodate change. Safe and comfortable riding all.

2) Fill up your gas tank and add sta-bil or some similar product. Take the bike out for a spin for about 10 minutes and let the sta-bil mix with the gas and get into the carburetor bowl. extra strength gas x while pregnant Turn the petcock to off. You can drain the bowls, but with stabilized gas in them, there is not really a need. Make sure the tank is quite full to prevent condensation from forming inside and causing rust.

3) All gasoline engines should be fogged prior to storage for a period longer than 30 days. If your bike will run with the air filter out, spray fogging oil into the airbox until the engine dies. That will get the oil in the cylinders really well, also into the manifolds (unless they’re rubber on your model?) Another way of doing that is to take out the plugs and fog each cylinder while cranking the engine over a few times. That may be preferable. Put the plugs back in.

My Nighthawk had about 9000 miles on it when I got it about 8 years ago. gas x dosage pregnancy The front brakes felt strange when I got it. I did basically what I described above. Brake fluid came out originally looking like Coca-Cola instead of water. I replaced the fluid 6 months later and it was a little dark but much better. I replaced it again 6 months and it was barely dark. I have been changing once a year when cold crappy weather is here. About 3 years ago I discovered the Valvoline synthetic and now the fluid looks the same (I pull 3 reservoirs for each caliper to make sure). Today my Nighthawk as 48,000 miles on it and the brakes are just fine.

I found a substantial improvement in the sound of the top end of the motor after taking two minutes to loosen up (then retighten) the self adjusting cam chain tensioner and let it do its thing. Before this adjustment I was getting a rattling/loose sound from the top end at about ~4300 rpm. The sound is now totally gone. I have also pulled the carbs and found the acceleration pump was mal-adjusted and was not doing its job at all. After the fix (parts available on eBay for less than $20), I now see four nice little spurts of fuel down through each of the four carbs whenever the throttle is whipped open (the design here is to keep the fuel/air mixture from becoming momentarily too lean when the throttle plate is suddenly opened). With this repair, I hope to see an even better throttle response now when I get it back together. Maintenance Tip sent to me from Paul Devlin, Ottawa, Canada[Further note on Cam Chain Tensioner: The cam chain tensioner on the ’83-’85 650 is not manually adjustable. It’s spring-loaded and either the spring can lose tension or the slipper can wear out. Repair involves replacement of the offending part and requires removal of the valve covers. The sound of a loose cam chain, as I’ve recently been told, occurs at lower rpm and is most noticeable when the throttle is snapped shut. Sounds like ball bearings being rolled around in a can. static electricity zapper Additional Tip from Dave, taken from Honda Nighthawk email group.]

I have an older friend who has been into boats for 50+ years. We all know what saltwater can do to metal, especially chrome….hmmm maybe those boats guys know some things us bike guys can benefit from, eh? I have been doing rust repairs since.. well.. since I got my first car "laugh with me, not at me." Anyway rust is like a disease. I have found there are 3 kinds of rust: surface, pitted, and complete.

Surface rust is basically tarnish. The metal is still complete and smooth, just hidden under an oxidized layer. This is basically what boats get constantly. I was introduced to a product called "Nevr-Dull" available at any marine store, or ACE hardware. This stuff is absolute magic. You need only a rag and a can of this. It comes as cotton soaked in…um..the magic stuff.. it takes some elbow grease you gotta work a small section at a time. But this stuff WILL amaze you.. Even border-line pitted metal will become almost new with this stuff. Its about 5 bucks for a can and you can do your whole bike easily. Leaves a super protective coat on the fresh metal. electricity font generator Great for any unpainted metal. Especially Chrome/ polished.

Pitted rust is where you can still see the original metal but the rust has eaten into it. My advise, same as the other guy who advised using a wire brush. You can get all shapes and sizes to fit your needs. I use a 2 inch wheel in a small 9V drill. It worked extremely well. Note: by using an abrasive, chrome will not look the same, it will have a different shine, unless you really spend time downgrading the abrasive and polishing. Sometimes you can do a combination of Nevr-Dull and the abrasive method, so as to do as little wire brushing as possible. Also when done use the Nevr-Dull to coat the newly exposed metal or it’ll flash rust in a few days. Great for any unpainted metal.

Complete rust where the metal flakes off in your hand is obviously the worst kind. **Usually requires cutting out effected area, then either fiber-glassing or welding new metal as a replacement. I have done both. f gas regulations ireland Either is a tedious and frustrating job. Both are costly too, depending on how big the area is. If you can do the fiberglass, you will have better results as a DIYer (do-it-yourselfer) and small fixes are easy and cheap especially dealing with plastic fairings. Welding is always my last choice. Its not easy to do, and a shop will charge a bunch as most bikes have many aluminum parts which are very difficult to weld.

**Even if the metal is flaking off, sometimes if there is enough integrity left in the metal, and if its not a working part, you can buy Naval Jelly (Home Depot, Auto Parts) a pink, snot-like, acid that dissolves rust. It works pretty good if you are going to paint over it. #3 – for those of you with the newer nighthawk 750s, (91+) check out this page: – under MODIFICATIONS. I totally recommend the carb needle washer mod and the Tim Hodge mod. They are easy to do and cost less than 20 bucks. Both have significantly improved the overall performance of my bike. I can start the bike with the choke and after 20 seconds be on my way without that notorious "Honda hesitation," or 5 minute warm-up. The bike actually gets better gas mileage now. 165 before reserve. The above tips were sent to me by Steven Peto from New Jersey, owner of a 1993 Nighthawk 750.

Before you give up on this excellent windscreen you might want to consider cutting it down. It’s easy to do especially if you have access to a band saw, but if you are careful, you can use other tools with a blade for cutting plastic. Here’s how: Sit on the bike and put your finger on it where visually it would be good for you… then, put some electrical tape across it, and ride for a while and move the tape up or down until it is where you want it….. keep in mind, you can cut more off, but you can’t glue it back on…. Then put several layers of masking tape on the top 5-6 inches (both sides).Use a kids compass, hooking the metal foot on the top and sliding it across making a pencil line on the masking tape. This gives the same curve across the top. The corners are done by eye, or use a 1/2 dollar coin. Take note of the angle of the edge as you will want to duplicate it later. Use a jig saw, router, rotozip, band saw or a hacksaw blade and cut it, on or off the bike (I cover the bike to keep the junk off it). Use a very fine toothed blade and go slow so the plastic doesn’t get hot and melt. If you don’t have the tools, or you are nervous about doing it, take it to your local plastics or cabinet shop. After cutting, sand the edges with some 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block, then ride it for awhile. Repeat until it’s where you want it. Then use 150 grit to get out the 80 grit marks and then some 220 to remove the 150 marks. Try to match the original edge angle. grade 9 electricity module Jon 92 NH 750