Pelican technical article – mini-r53 – front bumper removal origin electricity account

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Begin by jacking up the front of the car and secure it with good jack stands. Now climb underneath the front of the engine. At the rear of the splash shield are two Phillips head locking screws. As you turn them, they eject from the subframe, releasing the rear of the shield (See Figure 1).

The front edge of the splash shield is secured with three 10mm bolts at the rear edge of the front bumper cover. On some cars, only the center 10mm bolt is visible from the outside. On our car, the bolts are somewhat hidden up above the lip of the bumper cover. Use a ratcheting 10mm wrench to access these two bolts. You will have just enough room to access them (See Figure 2).

Remove both front tires and remove the wheelhouse liners. These are the plastic shields that line the inside of the wheel wells and prevent dirt and debris from getting inside the engine compartment. For each side of the car, there are two Phillips screws along the top of the liner (See Figure 3) and 8 plastic expansion rivets placed at various points in the liner (See Figure 4). Remove the two screws at the top and then the expansion rivets by unscrewing the center portion. Here’s where it gets a bit tricky. Sometimes, the outer part of the rivet will turn along with the center part. You will need to hold the out portion of the rivet stationary while you unscrew the center part. Once you get the center part about 10mm out, you simply pull the rivet out of the liner (See Figure 5). Don’t forget the rivet on the bottom edge of the car at the rear of the fender.

Now if your car has fog lights, grab the bulb housing and turn it counter-clockwise to remove it from the housing and set them aside (See Figure 6). Now move up to the top of the bumper cover. There are small access holes on either side of the radiator. Inside, you will see the two electrical connections going to the front turn signal assemblies (See Figure 7). To disconnect these, grab the bulb housings for each connection and turn them counter-clockwise. This will release the housings.

Now look at the sides of the bumper cover near the side marker lights. At the top on each side, you will see two T30 Torx bolts. Remove the top bolts holding the bumper cover to the frame from underneath (See Figure 8). Now remove the two T30 Torx bolts on each side holding the front of the bumper cover to the front of the car (See Figure 9 NOTE: In the picture it shows two 10mm bolts, these were installed prior to us owning the car). At this point you will be able to carefully remove the bumper cover off the bumper carrier. Remove just the top edge until you have enough clearance to twist the bulb holders out of the side markers (See Figure 10). Carefully rotate the bumper cover forward until you can remove the outside air temperature sensor from the bracket on the inside of the bumper cover. It just slides out to the right (See Figure 11).

After all electrical connections have been disconnected, remove the bumper cover and set it aside. You may want to spread out a couple towels to protect the paint on the cover (See Figure 12). With the cover removed, you will see the large aluminum bumper carrier underneath. This piece both holds the bumper cover and is designed to absorb the energy of a frontward crash. The carrier is held on by eight 13mm nuts and two 13mm bolts (See Figure 13 and Figure 14 ). Remove these fasteners and remove the carrier (See Figure 15).

Now look at the bottom crush tubes and remove both the 10mm bolt securing them to the plastic radiator frame (See Figure 17). Also remove the two large 18mm bolts holding the crush tubes to the front of the subframe (See Figure 18). Now pull both crush tubes off the subframe. It will probably take little effort to get them off, but if you rock them with a side to side motion while pulling, they should begin to slide off (See Figure 18).

Comments: If you have removed the front bumper in order to lower the subframe, I would strongly suggest you verify the alignment of the holes on the bumper carrier during re-installation. Note the hole to the left of the top green arrow in Figure 13 right of same arrow in Figure 14. If you have removed the crush bars, keep them loose until all the holes on the carrier are in alignment.

Comments: I need to adjust the bumper gap from the bumper to the hood bonnet. The drivers side matches up very nicely with a small gap between the edge of the hood and the bumper. The passenger side, however, has a gap of about half an inch between the hood and the bumper. Can you help? I read the removal article but did not see anything about adjusting the gap between the bumper and hood edge if needed? Can you advise?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: Gap is covered in repair manuals. I would grab a repair manual. It will list the special tools and each step of the procedure. Give our parts specialists a call: 1-888-280-7799, They will help you find what you nee – Nick at Pelican Parts