Porsche 911 carrera fuel filter replacement – 996 (1998-2001) – pelican parts technical article 76 gas card login


One of the basic maintenance projects that you should perform on your Porsche is the replacement of the fuel filter. Starting in 2002, Porsche moved the filter to inside the gas tank and called it a lifetime filter that never needs to be changed. For cars with a replaceable filter, I recommend that you replace your fuel filter about once a year or every 10,000 miles. It seems that with today’s odd blended fuels, there always seems to be some gas station that has problems with dirt or grime in the gasoline that can clog your tank electricity receiver definition. I don’t think quality control with gasoline stations is really what it used to be. Needless to say, I try to replace the fuel filter at least once a year. If you have a 2002 or later car that needs a new fuel filter your only is to replace the entire fuel pump assembly shale gas in spanish. See Project 22 (Replacing the Fuel Pump)

Changing the fuel filter is not a job that I relish. It is almost guaranteed that you will spill at least some fuel on the ground and yourself as you swap out the fuel filter. Be sure to perform the replacement in a well-ventilated area. That means outdoors or in your garage with a few large fans blowing air both in and out. Have a fire extinguisher handy, wear rubber gloves, eye protection, and have a few rolls of paper towels handy–you will need them.

The first step is to jack the car up ( Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up Your Porsche 911 Carrera). The Carreras have an intelligent design when it comes to fuel flow. The fuel pump is located in the bottom of the tank and pumps fuel out of the top fuel tank cover. Why is this good? Well, when you go to change the fuel filter, you can pull out the fuel pump relay, crank the car a few times, and be assured that fuel isn’t going to flow everywhere if you make a mistake. Some older cars have a gravity-fed system e gaskell north and south that takes fuel out of the bottom of the tank. With these systems, you have to disconnect the line and clamp it very quickly–otherwise, the entire tank of gas will empty out! Unfortunately, with the Carrera system, you can’t get 100 percent of the fuel out, and some will spill when you disconnect the fuel filter. In addition, the filter itself electricity grid code will mostly be full of fuel too.

Now, crawl underneath the car. The filter is located behind the large plastic panel located in the very center of the car. This panel is held on with some plastic nuts (10mm head)–remove them and the panel should easily drop down. Next, remove the foam fixture piece that wraps around all of the lines in the center tunnel, and remove the two bolts that hold the plastic coolant line bracket (see Figure 1). Disconnect the fuel filter ground strap, and loosen up the clamp that holds the filter. Now you want to disconnect the lines to the filter. The Carrera filter has connections that are very easy electricity trading hubs to attach and remove. Simply push gently on the grey tabs on opposite sides of the plastic connector, and the connection should easily slide off. Take a close look at your new filter for guidance on how this quick-connect connector works. Have a small pail or bucket handy to catch the excess fuel when you release the connection.

When the connections have been released, expect quite a few ounces of gasoline to be coming your way. Be prepared (gloves, eye protection, paper towels, bucket, and a well-ventilated area). Take the filter out by pulling it toward the rear of the car, put it in your bucket, and take it and any left over or spilled gasoline outside of your garage immediately. Let the garage sit empty for about 15-20 minutes before you re-enter–it will take about that long for gas vs electric water heater savings the fumes to clear. Then, simply reattach the new filter in place of the old one, observing the direction of the arrows located on the filter–they point in the direction of fuel flow, which is from the gas tank (front) to the engine (rear). Check that the snap-fit connections are properly seated by gently tugging on them. Reattach the ground wire (important!). Tighten the clamp that holds the filter tight. Then reinstall the foam piece and the large center panel.

Comments: Thanks for the instructions Pelican. I also find it hard to remove the filter from between the coolant pipes. It’s extremely PITA especially on a race car where the eyebolts for the safety harness are installed right around the coolant pipe area, making even less room for the coolant bp gas prices akron ohio pipes to spread enough room. I ended up tilting down the transmission support bracket to make room. I’ll be looking for a filter that has smaller diameter next time. But other than that, the instructions are great. Cheers.

Comments: You make things sound so easy. Getting the old filter out from behind those two larger pipes is a royal pain in the arse. I had to hammer a wooden wedge between the pipes until the filter had the slightest tightest chance of coming gas x dosage for dogs past them. I did the job but in future when you explain a job please say its gonna be a PITA if it is.

Comments: I have a 2001 911 C4 First time owner. I live about 60 miles south of the Canadian border. It’s not uncommon for temps to dip to 30 to 40 below the doughnut, not including the wind chill factor. I do plan on driving the car this winter, if the roads are clear. I have a heated garage however, the car would be outside for at least 8 hours. My office is 50 miles one way. Any suggestions for winter oil? Oil 4 other gases in the atmosphere pan heater? Thanks in advance. Mark

Comments: I am the proud owner of a 2001 Porsche Carrera 996. Saving my communion, halloween and bottle turn in money since 1962 finally afforded me the cash to make the purchase. Finding a great deal with a Porsche General Manager female that kept her auto in extra super condition was an offer I could not refuse. Anyway, at 50,000 miles I decided to do as much as I could as far as preventive maintenance. Oil, transmission fluid and filter, air filters all, plugs, drive belt and fuel filter. All parts were purchased from Pelican and were of high quality. Everything was going great until I attempted to remove the fuel filter. The most difficult task was removing the ground wire from the old fuel filter. It would not give up. Who would had thought. Big job, no problem. Little wire, nightmare. Solution, I broke the tab off the old filter, removed the tab from the lead wire and refitted the ground with a 6 inch extension lead to the new filter. Too much but perseverance and a little grade 9 electricity unit brain power helped me over coming my repair fears. Also, you tube and directions from Pelican were a huge help. Thank you. Ron.

Comments: The last comment I see is from March 2014, so to make it clear this one is on February 2, 2015. Reading your instructions of how to change a Fuel Filter and a Fuel accumulator on my 1980, 911SC e 87 gasoline it helped a lot and yet I’d like to add a couple of things: First yes I did in about 3 hours between having to buy a new wrench as the space in there is so tight back pain is till here today, 24 hours later. One thing not mentioned on your instructions where you said unscrew the top of the fuel filter and the bottom of the Fuel accumulator so they come out as a unit and then have better access to taking npower electricity power cut off lines from the top of the accumulator there is one more line the main fuel line coming from the tank One note from an other reader was to fill in the new filter with gas first which I did so the pump isn’t trying to do so and you worrying why the car doesn’t start. One last note is that YOU HAVE to once all in place turn the key 2 steps till you hear the fuel pump working BUT DO NOT TURN the engine on till you check for licks. Mine did lick in one spot which I had to make tighter but if not the car may blow up on you with very serious consequences.