Porsche 911 carrera shocks and springs replacement – 996 (1998-2005) – 997 (2005-2012) – pelican parts technical article electricity billy elliot karaoke

###############

One of the most popular projects to perform on the Carrera is the replacement of the front and rear shocks. I usually recommend that you replace both the front and the rear at the same time, as they take roughly similar abuse over their lifetime, and the fronts or rears are not likely to be more or less worn than the other ones. As a rule, the shocks should always be replaced in pairs (left and right together). The replacement procedures for the front and rear shocks are very similar.

I recommend that you replace your shocks every 50,000 miles or so or if they start to show signs of fading or wearing out. If you hp gas online login push down on a corner of the car, it should spring back with almost no oscillation up and down. If the car bounces up and down, then you probably need new shocks. Different driving patterns may also affect the life of shock absorbers. Cars that are raced or often driven on windy roads may need to have their shocks replaced more often than street cars. It is also important to remember to have the electricity worksheets ks1 car realigned if you install performance springs into your car that lowers it from its stock level. Changing the height of the suspension changes the values of the alignment/suspension settings.

With the car elevated in the air and the wheels removed, start with one strut, and remove the brake caliper (see Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Porsche 911 Carrera Shocks and Springs). Unplug any brake sensors that may be connected to the caliper and disconnect them from gas leak east los angeles the strut (see Figure 1). Use some rope or wire to tie the brake caliper aside so that it doesn’t hang by its rubber hose. Now, disconnect the sway bar drop link from the wheel bearing carrier (see Figure 2). In the front trunk compartment, mark the location of the three nuts that hold the shock to the tower and then remove them ( Figure 3). Finally, loosen but do not remove the bolt that attaches the wishbone to the chassis (see Figure 4). This will allow us to drop the strut downward to its lowest point so that we may pull it out from the car after we remove the shock insert and spring.

With the strut assembly and wheel bearing carrier loose, you should be able to push down on the wishbone and maneuver the shock down over the top of the fender. If your car has been lowered or has had some other suspension changes made from the stock configuration, you may need some extra wiggle room. In this case, use your spring compressors to compress the spring and remove it while the strut is still under the fender electricity and magnetism online games. Then you should be able to compress the shock further and remove it from the bottom of the fender. When working close to the fender here, be careful that you don’t scratch your paint–lay a moving blanket or something similarly soft out to protect the paint finish.

With your strut assembly off and on your workbench b games 2, install your spring compressor onto the spring and compress it until it no longer is tight in the strut assembly. While compressing the spring, be sure that you wear safety goggles–these springs are under a lot of pressure, and it is possible that the spring compressor may slip off suddenly. Place the two halves of the compressor on exactly opposite sides of the spring. I have found it very useful to use two ratcheting wrenches (I prefer the ones manufactured by GearWrench and available at PelicanParts.com) on each side of the compressor to assure that I achieve even and equal compression on both sides. Failure to maintain even compression when compressing the springs can make the compressor slip off.

With the spring compression removed from the strut assembly and the springs loose on their perches, remove the center nut that is attached to the top of the shock (see Figure 6). The reassembly process on the Carrera doesn’t necessarily require an impact wrench, but it can gas dryer vs electric dryer cost savings sometimes make the job easier. So if you don’t have one, now is a great time to buy one. I recommend an electric one–no air compressor is required (see Tools of the Trade in the front of this book).

With the upper strut mount removed, you should simply be able to lift the old spring off of the bottom spring perch. If you are reusing your old springs, then simply place them back onto the top of the lower spring perches. If you are replacing your springs with new ones, then move the spring to your workbench and slowly la gas prices average release the spring compressor on your old springs. Compress the new springs in a similar manner. You can use stiffer springs like Eibach Performance Springs, which serve to create a stiffer suspension and lower the car a little more than an inch in both the front and the rear.

Install the compressed spring assembly back onto the lower spring perch and reassemble the assembly as per Figure 8. Reinstall the dust boot/rubber bumper assembly over the shock to protect it from road debris and grime. Reinstall the upper spring plate and spring pad, taking care 76 gas station jobs to verify that the plate is nestled correctly against the top of the spring. Inspect your upper strut mount and bearing carefully prior to assembly. The mount is manufactured out of rubber–both the rubber mount and the bearing will wear over time. I recommend replacing both of them if they look old or if they haven’t been replaced previously. Reinstall the upper strut mount on top of the spring plate, and tighten up the retaining nut. Always use new hardware when gas youtube replacing your shocks–all of the nuts are self-locking and will loose some of that self-securing ability if they are reused.

Reinstall the shock assembly into the wheel carrier, and attach the lower sway bar drop link (which also functions as the pinch bolt for squeezing the shock assembly). Install the assembly back into the top of the shock tower. The upper strut mount may have to be rotated a couple of times in order for you to properly line up the studs integrated into the mount with the holes in the chassis tower. Attach the three nuts at the top of the tower, lining them up with the marks you made when you removed them. Reinstall the brake caliper ( Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Porsche 911 Carrera Shocks and Springs) and any other components you may have disconnected electricity dance moms episode. Plug in the sensor connectors that you may have disconnected, and route the wires and hoses back through the tabs in the strut.

Replacing the rear shocks on the 996 is easier than replacing the front shocks. Begin by jacking the car up, supporting it on jack stands (please refer to Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up Your Porsche 911 Carrera, Jacking Up your car for more info). From inside the car, remove the panel behind the rear seats. On convertible models, you’ll need to remove the carpeting from under the body flap. Please see out article (Project: Convertible Top Mechanism) for more information.

From underneath the car, disconnect both sway bar end links from the sway bar. Hold the 17 mm nut on the inside electricity youtube billy elliot of the sway bar link while removing the 15mm nut on the outside. Once removed, use an 18mm socket and wrench to remove the bolt holding the rear strut to the control arm. You may have to knock the bolt out of the hole with a long drift. Now use a pry bar to lift the rear strut off its mount of the control arm.

Comments: Just a quick follow up to my last post in case it helps anyone in the same situation strut appears too long. In the end I had to stand on the hub sticking out from the brake rotor in order to make the suspension descend enough and simultaneously pull the strut into position. It needed a couple of tries, but went in pretty easily using this technique.

Comments: I’ve removed my old rear strut on my 1999 Carrera 2, and assembled the new one same part number and am reusing the spring. Problem is I can’t get the new strut into place as it seems like around 2 inches too long. I have only electricity transmission jacked one corner up, but with the sway bar disconnected that shouldn’t have an effect. I tried to refit the spring compressors to compress the strut but there’s not enough room. Any suggestions how to get the new strut into place?

Comments: So I bought your book and was going by that for a c4s but as it became difficult to drop the hub devil of time loosening wishbone. Can’t get wrenches on it well gas hydrates enough. Bentley says gotta remove hub by pressing it off and ball joint needs to be pressed out and put hub on bench. Mention of this difference in your book would have been helpful unless it really can be dropped more. I can’t get leverage your way. Any tips before I go and get these press tools