Porsche 911 jacking up your car 911 (1965-89) – 930 turbo (1975-89) pelican parts diy maintenance article gas lighting


There are some projects that cannot be performed without elevating the car off the ground. Surprisingly enough, the 911 is one of the few cars where the procedure for raising the car is not completely obvious. Haphazard use of a floor jack can result in some pretty significant and expensive damage to your car. Before you begin raising the car, make sure that you have the wheels of the car blocked so that it can’t roll. It’s also wise to have your parking brake on as well, and the car placed in first gear. You should always use jack stands in pairs to support the car: not simply the floor jack. Even if you are only lifting the car up for a few minutes, make sure that you electricity flow chart place a jack stand loosely underneath the transmission or the motor, just in case the floor jack fails.

If you would like to raise the rear of the car, there are a few methods that you can use. The most common one is to lift the entire car by the bottom of the engine. This will not damage the engine as it is very strong at this point. Do not lift the car at the rear seam where the floor meets the rear firewall. This is not a strong point, and can chassis dent astrid y gaston lima reservations or buckle when the weight of the car is placed on this spot.

Another method of raising the car is to use a floor jack pad. This handy tool is placed in the factory jack holes on each side of the car. The car can be raised in small increments by jacking up one side of the car, supporting it, and then moving to the other side. The ideal place for rear support is the torsion bar covers. It’s not recommended to place the jack stands underneath the engine or transmission, as this can lead to instability. The torsion bar covers provide the most possible rigid support of the rear.

It is highly recommended NOT to lift the car by placing your jack underneath the floor of the car. Oil lines and air conditioning hoses run underneath the floor of the car, making them easy targets for being crushed by a floor jack. Lifting the car from an unsupported section of the floor can also lead gas tax in ct to a significant dent in your car’s floor.

The front of the car can be lifted by either of the two mounting points of the a-arms. Use a block of wood when jacking the car up and be careful not to damage the a-arm when you are using it to lift the car. Also be aware that raising one side of the front of the car will most likely raise the car on the other side, creating a potentially unstable condition.

Once you have the car up in the air and supported on the jack stands, push on the car and see if it is unstable on the jack stands. If the car moves at all, you do not have it properly supported. It is far better for the car to fall off the jack stands while you are pushing on it, then when you are underneath it. Set the floor jack underneath the engine or transmission as yet another redundant support. It is also a wise idea to set up a spare jack stand or two as a precautionary measure against one of them failing.

When you are ready to lower the car, be aware of where you are placing your floor jack. Sometimes you will not be able to easily remove the jack when the car is lowered, or the jack handle may crush or damage an oil line or tube on the way down. Proceed very slowly gas unlimited and also be aware that some floor jacks release very quickly. Also be careful to place the car in gear, or to pull the parking brake before you lower it. The car may have a tendency to roll away right after it’s put back on the ground.

Followup from the Pelican Staff: To jack up the front, make sure that you use a strong, supported point on the car. The mounting points for the a-arms are excellent locations for the jack. Place a block of wood in-between the jack and the a-arm mounting point to prevent any damage to you’re a-arms. If you have a front sway bar that runs along the bottom of the front suspension, make sure that you don’t accidentally jack up the car on the bar.

I need to lift the car to get the jack out. I look for the jack points on the side of the car and could not find them. In the pictures above, it appears the lift point on the engine is flat/circular. I have a seam running down my engine with no clear flat spot. I think I understand where I could lift it from the a-arm, but I’m not entirely sure.

Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can lift at the seam, using a block of wood with a slot to allow it to drop in. I like to make a cradle for it. You can also jack near the control arm, but not on it. If you jack on it, as the suspension unloads, it can push your jack at an angle and cause a slip. Best bet is to buy the jack adapter shown in the article. – Nick at Pelican Parts

Comments: Pretty sure the tank strainer is plugged with rust on my ’73 911S Targa. Car would electricity projects for class 12 start and idle fine but had no power and would stall under load. Now it won’t start at all. Replaced the fuel filter which had a lot of fine rust in it. Fuel pump is running rapidly which tells me it’s not getting gas. Need to jack up the front end and pull the tank out to get it cleaned and resealed.

Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is typically the proper connection, however I would just verify with a volt meter: when the red lead of the meter is connected to the red wire from the car and the black lead from the meter is connected to the B- terminal, crank the engine. The volt meter gas in babies treatment should display battery voltage. That proves that the red wire is the positive connection to the pump. – Casey at Pelican Parts

Followup from the Pelican Staff: A scissor lift is a little different because the load is centered verse being held from the side, like on a twin post. I have not used a scissor lift in some time. I would say, get the lift pads as spread out on the vehicle chassis as possible to evenly spread the weight. FOllow the instructions that came with the lift. – Nick at Pelican Parts

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