Porsche 911 pedal cluster rebuild 911 (1965-89) – 930 turbo (1975-89) pelican parts diy maintenance article electricity formulas grade 9

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Very often on the older 911s, the pedal cluster will have a tendency to stick and bind. This is often caused by rainwater leaks starting to rust out the assembly, or a master cylinder that electric zap sound effect free has leaked corrosive brake fluid over the bushings. The original pedal clusters were installed with plastic bushings that have a tendency to wear away during many years of repeated use. Rebuilding the entire assembly with newer bronze bushings is an easy and straightforward process, and can possibly solve some of your shifting and clutch problems as well.

Your pedal cluster should be rebuilt with the newer, aftermarket bronze bushings. Not only will these bushings perform better than the stock plastic ones, but they should also last a lot longer over a greater length of time. Replacing the plastic bushings should also assure that your pedals will not squeak anymore, or worse, get stuck in the down position. In addition to the bronze bushing kit, you will also need some new rubber pedal pads, some black paint, and some white lithium grease for lubricating the entire assembly.

Removal of the pedal cluster is not too difficult, but can be tricky if you haven’t done it before. The first thing to do is to remove the carpet, the wooden floorboard, and disconnect the clutch cable. See Project 40 for more information on this procedure. Now, you need to unbolt the assembly from the car. The pedal cluster 8 gas laws and the master cylinder are bolted together on the early cars, so you need to disconnect the master cylinder in order to remove the pedal cluster. This is accomplished by removing the two nuts that attach the master cylinder to the pedal cluster. These two nuts can be reached from underneath the car, after removing the belly pan that covers the steering rack. To actually remove the cluster from the car, you may also have to unbolt and disconnect the accelerator pedal as well. It would be advisable to take a vacuum cleaner and clean out the area near the cluster before you remove it. This will make the job a lot more pleasant, and will also prevent you from tracking dirt and other debris across the save electricity images for drawing interior of your car when you remove the cluster. Make sure that you unhitch both the clutch cable and accelerator cable as well. See Project 9 for more details.

Once you have the pedal cluster removed from your car, take it over to your workbench, and begin the disassembly. A roll pin that is pressed into the end of the clutch pedal holds the majority of the cluster together. The first step to try for removing the roll pin is to place a bolt on one end and tap it carefully with a hammer. Make sure that the base of the clutch pedal is firmly mounted in a vise so that you don’t dent, damage, or bend any of the parts on the cluster. Tapping the pin with a hammer might make it move slightly, but in most cases probably wont be enough to remove it.

Another removal method involves drilling the inside of the pin out before trying to remove it. Get a few new steel drill bits (and plan on destroying them in this process), and start by drilling inside the roll pin. The pin has a hollow center, so it should be relatively easy to get the drill bit started in the pin. Drill out the pin by increasing the size of the drill bit that you use gas dryer vs electric dryer operating cost, until the inside of the pin is significantly larger in diameter. Now, the pin should be easier to press out. Try to tap it out with a hammer, or you can place it in a vise with a screw behind the roll pin and compress the vise until the pin is pressed out. If all else fails, you can probably take it to your local machine shop, where they have the proper tools to press out the pin in about 1 minute.

Once you have the roll pin out, then the rest of the cluster grade 9 electricity test questions should come apart quite easily. Remove the nut that holds on the inner cylinder of the cluster and pull it out. At this point it should be easy to completely disassemble the entire cluster. Take a screwdriver and remove all of the older plastic bushings. At this time, you might want to take your pedal cluster parts to your local machine shop to have it sand blasted and painted. This gives it a very nice appearance, and will also protect it from rust in the future.

Once the parts are cleaned up, insert the new bushings into the cluster. Refer to the photo and diagram in this section for the exact location of where each bushing is to be installed. Make sure that you place a light coat of white lithium grease on all the bushings in the cluster. The bushings themselves should not require too much force to be pressed into their mating surfaces.

While you have the cluster out and apart, it’s also a good idea to test and adjust your brake pedal switch. On the earlier 911s, this switch is activated by the brake pedal and triggers the rear brake lights. Check to make sure that the switch is operational, and adjust it if the actuation point is not exactly where you think it should be.

This diagram shows an exploded view of the pedal cluster assembly. Different year cars extra strength gas x while pregnant may have slightly different configurations, but the general design and assembly is the same for all the 911s. This diagram shows the pedal cluster assembly for 911s 1974 and later. The main difference from the early cars is the installation of a stronger k electric share price clutch pedal helper spring. This helper spring can be very difficult to put on, and usually requires two people to complete the task. 1-Bolt, M6x25, 2-Washer, 3-Throttle pedal, 4-Throttle pedal stop, 5-Throttle control link, 6-Throttle control rod, 7-Clevis pin, 8-Nut, M8, 9-Lock washer, 10-Washer, 11-Nut, M8, 12-Lock washer, 13-Support, 14-Dust Boot, 15-Cotter pin for actuating rod, 16-Washer, 17-Intermediate piece, 18-Nut, M10, 19-Actuating rod, 20-Stoplight switch actuating washer, 21-Spring, 22-Cotter pin for bell crank, 23-Washer, 24-Bell Crank, 25-Bushing (Replace with bronze bushing), 26-Rubber Stop, 27-Slotted screw M4x10, 28-External tooth lock washer, 29-Stoplight switch, 30-Roll pin, 31-Clutch pedal, 32-Clutch pedal shaft, 33-Bushing, 34-Nut, M8, 35-Lock washer, 36-Support tube, 37-Bushing (Replace with bronze bushing), 38-Rubber stop, 39-Brake pedal, 40-Return gas bubble in throat spring, 41-Bushing (Replace with bronze bushing)

Comments: Update- next day went at it again and released the arm that goes to the gas pedal by pushing forward toward the round end of the ball cup The ball cup on the throttle cable was frozen, so I could not release this one. I was about to cut the ball cup with a cut off wheel and was spinning it to get the correct position and it fell off. The last time I felt this good about a 911 was when I broke the top barrel nut loose on the starter. These cars were not designed to repair but with the help of the forums it is hard but not impossible .

Comments: I have spent 3 hours trying to disconnect the throttle cable from my 1985 Carrera from the worn out throttle reverse lever and it seems like it is not going to happen.I turned it and it went about an inch out then seems like I will run out of beer before the part comes out. I am starting to hate these cars ,there is a lot of Rube Goldberg in the design and this is my 3rd one. Any idea why it won’t unscrew ?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can try a stronger return spring at the carb end and also see if the cam movement is greater that 90 degrees. This will cause the cam to want to rest the other way instead of returning to where it is at idle. Also see if engine torque is overcoming the engine gas near me prices mounts and allowing the engine to move and pull on the throttle linkage. – Nick at Pelican Parts

Applies to: 1965 Porsche 911, 1966 Porsche 911, 1967 Porsche 911, 1968 Porsche 911, 1969 Porsche 911, 1970 Porsche 911, 1971 Porsche 911, 1972 Porsche 911, 1973 Porsche 911, 1974 Porsche 911, 1975 Porsche 911, 1976 Porsche 911, 1977 Porsche 911, 1978 Porsche 911, 1979 Porsche 911, 1980 Porsche 911, 1981 Porsche 911, 1982 Porsche 911, 1983 Porsche 911, 1984 Porsche electricity 220v 911, 1985 Porsche 911, 1986 Porsche 911, 1987 Porsche 911, 1988 Porsche 911, 1989 Porsche 911, 1975 Porsche 911 Turbo, 1976 Porsche 912 Turbo, 1977 Porsche 913 Turbo, 1978 Porsche 914 Turbo, 1979 Porsche 915 Turbo, 1980 Porsche 916 Turbo, 1981 Porsche 917 Turbo, 1982 Porsche 918 Turbo, 1983 Porsche 919 Turbo, 1984 Porsche 920 Turbo, 1985 Porsche 921 Turbo, 1986 Porsche 922 Turbo, 1987 Porsche 923 Turbo, 1988 Porsche 924 Turbo, 1989 Porsche 925 Turbo, 1970 Porsche 914, 1971 Porsche 914, 1972 Porsche 914, 1973 Porsche 914, 1974 Porsche 914, 1975 Porsche 914, 1976 Porsche 914, 1965 Porsche 912, 1966 Porsche 912, 1967 Porsche 912, 1968 Porsche 912, 1969 Porsche 912