Porsche 914 clutch replacement and adjustmenet (1969-1976) pelican parts diy maitenance article thermal electricity how it works

Replacing the clutch on a 914 is a job that can be performed by the home mechanic equipped with a little knowledge and a few special tools. The actual job is not very difficult, as long as you follow the correct and proper steps. Performing the clutch replacement yourself can save you hundreds of dollars, and also teach you a little something about your car.

The instructions provided in this article are designed to give you all the information that you need to perform this task. This is not an overview or a mere cursory glance at the job; everything that you need to know is contained here (at least to the best of my knowledge). The most important step in performing this job is the diligent attention to the check list of tasks. We have provided a convenient check list for you to use while you are working on the car. Without the checklist, there is plenty of opportunity to miss or forget small detail steps in the process. Click here to download this check list. The document is encapsulated in an Adobe Acrobat file, and the reader for the file can be found at www.adobe.com.

Our advice is to download the checklist, print it out, and read the article very carefully. There are quite a few pitfalls in the installation process, and preparation for the task really counts a lot. If you have all your tools and parts laid out beforehand, you will save yourself a lot of trouble later on. If this is the first time performing this job, count on spending at least two full days on it. The clutch job performed for this article took about eight hours. Granted, there were quite a few things that went wrong due to rust and oil leaks on the car, and the picture taking probably added about an hour to the total.

The very first task in performing the job is to obtain all the parts and tools that you will need. Pelican Parts offers a complete clutch replacement kit with everything that you will definitely need for the job. In addition, we offer a supplemental package of items that you may wish to order as insurance. These are items that most likely will not need to be replaced, but due to the nature of the car, may need replacement. We don’t recommend cutting corners on the clutch job to save a few bucks. If you’re investing the time and energy to do the job, you might as well do the job right. Figure 1 shows a picture of all the parts that you will need to do the job right:

Pelican Parts sells a complete package with all of the parts that you need to do this job. Please click here to find out the current price on this package. Your continued support of Pelican Parts insures that these technical articles, and our friendly, convenient customer support of the 914 will continue into the future. Please email us with any questions, or to place an order for our complete clutch replacement package.

In addition to the parts listed above, you may need some more parts if they are damaged or broken on your car. If you would like to get the job done quickly, it is advisable to have these parts on hand, otherwise, you will may end up having to wait for an order to arrive.

Everything listed above but the new clutch cable is shown in Figure 2. A brand new 914 clutch disc is shown in Figure 3. This is is an original disc purchased back in 1975. The disc was part of some NOS (New Old Stock) parts that we recently acquired. The color of the discs available from Sachs today differ slightly in their overall color. The 914 clutch disc differs from the early 911 disc in that it has only four springs, where the 911 disc is a six-spring clutch. In terms of size and compatibility, they are completely interchangeable. We recommend using the 911 clutch package in the 914, as it gives the clutch a better feel. The 914 pressure plate is shown in Figure 4. This is the same pressure plate that is used in the early 911s that were built with the 901 transmission. Note how on the pressure plate, the spring fingers are new, and not worn from contacting the throw-out bearing. A new throw-out bearing is shown in Figure 5. The bearing rides on the mainshaft of the transmission and should be replaced along with all of the other clutch components. The final main piece of the package is the flywheel. You can choose to purchase either a brand new flywheel, or simply trade yours in for a resurfaced one, as shown in Figure 6. The resurfaced ones are just as good as the new ones in terms of performance. Two surfaces need to be turned down on a lathe for proper operation; the inner surface where the disc contacts the flywheel, and the outer surface where the pressure plate mounts. If the distance between these two surfaces is off, then you will have problems with your clutch. Additionally, if the surface of the flywheel is not smooth, then the clutch disc will have difficulty holding onto the flywheel. Sometimes, depending upon how many times the flywheel has been turned down already, the flywheel bolts may need to be countersunk just a bit. This is certain to be true especially if your old clutch disc was scrapping the top of the flywheel bolts. Flywheels with counter-sunk bolts still work perfectly fine, but the next time they are removed, they should be disposed of.