Porsche cayenne repairing the air-oil separator 2003-2008 pelican parts diy maintenance article gas dryer vs electric dryer safety


The engine air-oil separator is an emissions device located on the top front corner of the right side valve cover. The separator is responsible for collecting residual gases and vapors contained physical science electricity review worksheet inside the crankcase and funneling them back into the intake manifold where they can be burned in the combustion chamber. This reduces the overall emissions of the engine.

When the separator fails, it causes an increase in the overall vacuum in the engine crankcase. In the most extreme cases, the air-oil separator fails to separate the oil from the air, and oil is then sucked into the intake manifold. Oil in the intake system gas in michigan is not healthy for the engine and it can foul spark plugs and destroy catalytic converters at the very least. The failure of the air-oil separator is often (but not always) accompanied by white smoke exiting the vehicle’s exhaust and a generally poor running engine. You may experience a check engine light (CEL) as the oil being drawn into the electricity transmission vs distribution intake can affect the mixture level. The oil cap may be very difficult to remove when the engine is running due to high vacuum levels. In addition, you may hear hissing from the separator when it’s running. This is caused by air being sucked in past the diaphragm seal. The air/oil separator is part #948-107-236-52-OEM. PLEASE NOTE: It is no longer possible to purchase the diaphragm gas zone as a separate part. You must replace the entire assembly as a kit.

Comments: I guess my first question is rooted to the applicable vehicles statement at the top of this page. Pelican states that the Cayenne 955 is the 2008 to 2010 model. Am I missing something here? My understanding is the 955 is from 2002 to 2007 and 957 is the 2008 to 2010 model years. I have a 2010 Cayenne Base. Does it even matter for this repair? Thanks – TD

Comments: The diaphragm is now commonly available in the aftermarket. It can be found on Pelican Parts. Unfortunately, it did not fix my engine roughness, despite the fact that the dealer diagnosed an internal leak 6 gases with the separator. My question is, how does the dealer know that? Does anything go wrong with the separator grade 6 electricity besides the rubber diaphragm? When I removed the old one, I did not see any split in the rubber.

Comments: The Vanos-BMW part #94810513107 for 4.5L V8. Is available from pelican Parts. When removing the cap – think of it as a clock, from front of vehicle. I used a knife-thin, mini flat Jeweler’s driver to first pop the tab at the 4 o’clock position. Then, slide over and get gas dryer vs electric dryer hookups the 2 o’clock tab. The cap edges must rest outside of each protruding tab. Wedge additional drivers to retain position, if needed. Wrap a big towel around the work area, so falling tools don’t get eaten by the belly pan. Then get that pesky, 6 o’clock tab apart. Once three tabs separate, the cap will lift upwards slightly. Go around and pop the 12 o’clock tab. Once four of the six tabs separate – the entire cap will dislodge. Install is re-assembling everything, and a firm push downwards.

Comments: My 2009 GTS just developed a small crack in the diaphragm which was causing a rough idle, squealing like it was gas engine tom a fan belt and hissing from the AOS. The crack was small enough, so I taped it with heavy duty 3M tape and it fixed the problem. I know it’s a temporary fix til I receive my new diaphragm from vanos-bmw since Bruce at Pelicanparts told me that I needed to order the whole AOS which I don’t need. BTW, if you try my fix, you need to tape it from behind so the tape is in between the diaphragm and the black cap.

Comments gasbuddy trip: Pelican does not sell the diaphragm electricity generation in usa by itself, you have to buy the entire oil/air separator. Anyone want to mass produce a shit load of these and open a company with me? This seems to be a VERY common occurrence and you shouldn’t have to buy a part for $175 when all you need is the rubber diaphragm inside for $10, and thats even a 1000% markup.

Comments: I’d like to summarize/update this article. The only way I know of to get the needed part at this time is to buy the entire valve cover. It’s part number 94810513107 electricity outage.Part number 94810743750 is not it. That for the seals that go under each corner of the valve cover. Part number 94810593400 is not it either. That’s the gasket for the cap on the valve cover. The only place I’ve heard of that offers the diaphragm is a mystery company in Russia. I don’t know what company nor do I know what part number is used with that company, sorry!

Comments: The 948 105 934 00 is the camshaft adjuster cap seal on the valve cover. I don’t know where this replacement diaphragm is supposed to come from or what the part number is but as far as I can tell, they don’t exist. The cap and electricity flow direction diaphragm are only available with a new valve cover. If someone has information otherwise, please share.