Projects – no spark from coil, no start page 5 the h.a.m.b. gas vs diesel generator

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First thing….. people need to read to learn. He has a foot actuated starter… like this. The ONLY wire going to it is a cable from the battery. There is another wire attached to that terminal that goes to the ignition switch to supply power.

From the IGN terminal on the ignition switch power goes to the ballast resistor. From the ballast to the positive (+) terminal on the coil. Very simple circuit. If there is power at the coil + with key on…. that part of the circuit is good.

With the distributor cap off, turn the motor by hand until the rubbing block is on one of the flats on the cam lobe. Here the points should be closed. Turn the ignition switch on, connect your test light to the negative side of the coil. Use a stick or something non metalic to open the points… your finger will work too. When you open the points the test light should come on (because with the points closed they are grounding the circuit so the light won’t be lit, when the points are open, the light is completing the circuit).

If all of that checks out OK, check the point gap… turn the motor bay hand until the rubbing block is at the peak of one of the lobes…. the points should be open, if not you will have to loosen the retaining screw slightly and move the base of the points until there is a gap…. a matchbook cover is a good gauge (or a .016" feeler gauge).

Once all of that is done, put the distributor cap back on and spin the motor over with the ignition ON… you should have spark at coil wire now. Pull that lead out of the center terminal of the cap and hold it 1/4" away from the valve cover while spinning the motor…. if you have spark…. it should run now !!

First thing….. people need to read to learn. He has a foot actuated starter… like this. The ONLY wire going to it is a cable from the battery. There is another wire attached to that terminal that goes to the ignition switch to supply power.

From the IGN terminal on the ignition switch power goes to the ballast resistor. From the ballast to the positive (+) terminal on the coil. Very simple circuit. If there is power at the coil + with key on…. that part of the circuit is good.

With the distributor cap off, turn the motor by hand until the rubbing block is on one of the flats on the cam lobe. Here the points should be closed. Turn the ignition switch on, connect your test light to the negative side of the coil. Use a stick or something non metalic to open the points… your finger will work too. When you open the points the test light should come on (because with the points closed they are grounding the circuit so the light won’t be lit, when the points are open, the light is completing the circuit).

If all of that checks out OK, check the point gap… turn the motor bay hand until the rubbing block is at the peak of one of the lobes…. the points should be open, if not you will have to loosen the retaining screw slightly and move the base of the points until there is a gap…. a matchbook cover is a good gauge (or a .016" feeler gauge).

Once all of that is done, put the distributor cap back on and spin the motor over with the ignition ON… you should have spark at coil wire now. Pull that lead out of the center terminal of the cap and hold it 1/4" away from the valve cover while spinning the motor…. if you have spark…. it should run now !!