Pulsing front rotors fixed! truedisk.net – page 2 – barf – bay area riders forum gas vs electric water heater

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It seems like people are not distinguishing between disc runout (side to side wobble as shown in the dial indicator video above) and variation of the disc thickness around its circumference. Both can cause pulsing, but by far the worst offender is variation in disc thickness. That is also the easiest to test for, just take micrometer readings of thickness every couple of inches around the disc. gas problem in babies Any measurable variation will cause problems. I’d be willing to bet your EBC discs show at least 0.001" variation.

On a motorcycle, the vast majority of riders either don’t have the skill or don’t have the balls to nail their brakes to the point where they can get hot enough for the material transfer from the pads to the rotor. They just put the pads on and ride. Eventually pad material transfer occurs but if, during that lengthy process, contamination gets on the rotors in some area, then the contamination will prevent good material transfer and you end up with material transfer in some areas and none in others. gasco abu dhabi contact That creates thick and thin spots and what you’re measuring isn’t rotor thickness differences, you’re measuring pad material transfer thickness differences.

Stoptech makes great products. electricity physics pdf I use their rotors on the family vehicles. And their pads on the wife’s Murano. On my Mini, I use Hawk HP+ pads. They grip like there’s no tomorrow and even for track duty, they work extremely well. Only at Seca where top speeds were higher did I ever get a hint of fade. electricity and circuits class 6 At Searspoint, they were very confidence inspiring and I could drive hard into turn 11 without any fear that they’d fail me and put me in the wall. And those are really just rated for street and autocross and club racing work. gas stoichiometry formula Only down side is that they do squeal a bit but I kinda like that anyway.

Hawk pads and I never saw eye-to-eye. I tried the HP’s and the HP+ and while I thought they were decent street pads, they sucked on the track. As you noticed, they aren’t intended for higher speeds and the harder / longer braking those speeds require. gas and bloating I chose / need to run brutally aggressive pads on the track. I chose to run them on the street because a) even cold they gripped better than any street pad, b) I hated swapping pads from street to track and back as well as having to bed both sets in again, and c) I love to see people cringe when they hear the squeal. A, B, & C overcome the pain of the occasional "dude, something is wrong with your brakes", and the crapload of brake dust.

Hawk pads and I never saw eye-to-eye. I tried the HP’s and the HP+ and while I thought they were decent street pads, they sucked on the track. As you noticed, they aren’t intended for higher speeds and the harder / longer braking those speeds require. I chose / need to run brutally aggressive pads on the track. I chose to run them on the street because a) even cold they gripped better than any street pad, b) I hated swapping pads from street to track and back as well as having to bed both sets in again, and c) I love to see people cringe when they hear the squeal. A, B, & C overcome the pain of the occasional "dude, something is wrong with your brakes", and the crapload of brake dust.

I’ve always wanted to upgrade the calipers on my Mini to Stoptech but really haven’t the need to do it. I likely can get away with the HP+’s on the track because my car is relatively light and while it’s a full on JCW car, top speeds aren’t what other cars can carry. electricity outage compensation But on a track like Seca, which is an HP track, if my speeds were any higher, I’d need to upgrade both the pads and calipers. Or at least the pads.