Rather hefty b7 s4 6mt engine replacement. need advice. warning lengthy a shell gas station near me

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I’ve been considering those. But i’m a firm believer that there has to be give SOMEWHERE else shit starts breaking elsewhere. Prolly the only reason my axles have survived *shrug*Yes, I agree, although it completely depends on what you’re using your car for. If you’re trying to build a strictly street only speed machine, then the subframe mounts make a lot of sense, but if you’re gonna be taking your car to the mountain to go snowboarding, etc, then I think they’re far too rigid and will eventually cause something somewhere to rattle loose. My Bilstein’s already make the ride so stiff and responsive that it’s almost overkill power outage houston today with the subframe mounts, so it’s kinda a toss up. They also add a relatively huge amount of additional in-cabin road noise/vibtration, but I happen to really like that. You feel literally every single little pebble and bump electricity outage houston and can feel your motor and it’s response much more vividly if that makes any sense. If you’re gonna use your car to go to the mountain, etc, I would not recommend them. They don’t allow anything to give, and eventually that will become problematic.

I’ve attached several photos (sorry about the rain; I live in Portland) to illustrate the issues I’m dealing with insofar as the body work is concerned. The hood came dented as well. Plastidip on the front grill as well as all of the window trim, all of which is peeling and looks AWFUL. Not sure how clear the photos show this, but the panel gaps are horrendous on everything front of the rear view mirrors, esp the margins surrounding the hood. After pricing out new vs used (and painted a different color) quarter panels etc it seems like buying new, pre-primed panels is the way to go. Otherwise I have to prep the used panels, and by the time they’ve been sanded, blocked and primed, I’ll end up spending more money than just buying new ones electricity storage handbook and starting fresh. Thoughts on this approach are very welcome!

Also, the plastidip is so corroded that I can actually just scrape it off with my finger or a plastic scraper. Still considering getting a set of OEM black trim from the Ti edition S-Line A4 Avant, but I honestly can’t decide if that would compete with the rest of the cars’ accent color, satin silver (roof rails, wheels, mirrors, etc) Everybody’s opinions and insight are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

My next big decision is whether or not to do a respray on the entire car. Considering that A) I’m not a fan of Dolphin Grey B) I’m going to have to paint the new hood, passenger fender, front gasbuddy app bumper and rear spoiler, I’m kinda thinking it makes sense to just do the entire car. I would sand, block and prime it myself, saving a lot of money on man hours. If I went that route, my current two favorite colors are Kingfisher Blue (EU version with Pearl, not the American version that lacks the Pearly action) and Nardo Grey.

Lastly, the accident that the previous owner got in that caused the dent in the passenger QP also compromised the seal in the right headlight. It still works but I’m getting an error code that the headlights are no longer tracking, and indeed, the right unit is not. I know these can be rebuilt, and considering that it’s flawless aside from the leak, I’d highly prefer to rebuild it, as opposed to spending $900 on a new set, or $400 gambling on a used set. Again, all thoughts gas chamber jokes and input are very much welcome and appreciated.

I love the new motor, although I’m experiencing some very ominous noises and shaking that presents itself whenever I make an early shift from 1st2nd. So for instance, when Im crawling along in traffic and I shift from 1st2nd and the RPM’s are between 900-1,100, a terrible rattling sound emanates from the underbelly of the car, accompanied by a physical sensation that can be felt most vividly through the gas pedal. As soon as I get past about 1,300 rpm’s it dissipates gas 76. When its bad, I can physically feel metal mashing on metal.

I should also note that it shifts flawlessly/drives magnificently well whenever Im on an open stretch of road wd gaster cosplay under ideal conditions so to speak, but in traffic its an entirely different story. Some days the sound/sensation is so overwhelming that any/all passengers are able to feel it through their seats, while on other days it’s almost imperceptible (but never for long). Ive driven enough cars in my life to know that whatever it is, its not good. Some part, somewhere, is getting mashed on without question. July is fast approaching (when I get my new tags, followed by downpipes and a S/C) but Im starting to feel hesitant to drop another $10,000 into the car, given that its already giving me issues less that 1,000 miles into a brand new motor. Im pretty bummed honestly but have absolutely no idea where its coming from or why its happening. What electricity lessons grade 6 was your transition like following the install of the new motor? Did you get upgraded motor mounts, snub mounts, etc? I got a stage 3 clutch at the same time as well as the Awe exhaust (and 034 motor/trans mounts), so it sounds/feels absolutely stunning. The clutch took almost 750 miles before it decided to start cooperating. It was kinda a nightmare getting used to, although now that its broken in, Im all about it. Other than the aforementioned issue, I f’ing love the new motor/clutch/exhaust but find it increasingly impossible to ignore the grinding/rattling/shaking that I feel every time I drive the car.

I love the new motor, although I am experiencing some very ominous noises and shaking that presents itself whenever I make an early shift from 1st2nd. So, for instance, when Im crawling along in traffic and I shift from 1st2nd and my the RPM’s are between 900-1,100, th entire car makes a horrible screeching sound, accompanied by a physical sensation that gas relief while pregnant can be felt most vividly through the gas pedal. As soon as I get past about 1,300 rpm’s its fine. I should also note that it shifts flawlessly/drives magnificently whenever im on an open stretch of road under ideal conditions so to speak, but in traffic its an entirely different story. July is fast approaching (when I get my new tags, followed by downpipes and electricity song omd a S/C) but Im starting to feel hesitant to drop another $10,000 into the car, given that its already making terrible noises less that 1,000 miles into a brand new motor. Im pretty bummed on the mystery sound but have absolutely no idea where its coming from or why its happening. What was your transition like following the install of the new motor? I got a stage 3 clutch at the same time as well as the Awe exhaust, so it sounds absolutely stunning, although the clutch took almost 750 miles before it decided to start cooperating. Prior to that it was kinda/sorta a nightmare to be honest. Now, its fantastic, but for a while there, aye aye aye…That’s interesting… Are you running a single mass flywheel? I had a similar sensation when I had an 034 single mass flywheel installed, maybe a little less la gasolina severe though. I am back to a full oem setup as far as clutch/flywheel/pressure plate are concerned. (I kept the single mass for when the time comes to S/C it) I am having no issues with my motor and it’s just sublime. The only problem I’ve had was a very odd one. I was experiencing severe chatter when the clutch was engaging to 1st from a stop. Once the car was moving it shifted perfect. I was getting ready to have the tranny pulled again to put a different clutch disc in it but it just so happens the day I call to schedule it the clutch starts working perfectly. I’ve only got 1,800 miles on the swap so far. I had the same feeling though, I didn’t really want to drop another 10-12k on a car that I just spent 20k replacing the motor. Now that everything is sorted and working perfectly it is really cool knowing the car is pretty much brand new. (I replaced absolutely everything that might need replacing in the future) all new electricity bill suspension and brakes as well. I hope you can get that issue figured out. Sounds like the clutch/flywheel could be the issue. Maybe just too aggressive for traffic/low RPM driving.